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Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-11-2010, 8:56 AM Reply   
So I will be pulling out my rear stock tanks out of my 2005 Sanger V-215. I will be replacing them with bags that can hold up to 750lbs. I know they wont fill all the way, but I am only looking for about 650lbs out of them. What ever I come up short by I will compensate with lead. I will post pictures and issues as I perform this task. I will be getting the stuff by the 15th. I will keep you posted.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       02-11-2010, 12:09 PM Reply   
Awesome Dave - shoot some pics. I am going to do this too, just as soon as the stereo is done...
Old     (dennish)      Join Date: May 2005       02-13-2010, 4:02 PM Reply   
Why do you think the bags will only fill part way. Another thread on here said almost 1100 lbs I think.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-16-2010, 11:30 AM Reply   
Dennis, I measured my compartment and found that the standard bag that wakemakers sells will not quite fit in my locker, I expect to get about 650lbs in a not totally full bag. But that is just a guess.

this a my drawing with rough dimensions. Now that my tanks are out I can really get an accurate measurement.


This is the kind of weight I am going for.


Here are some pictures of me taking out the tanks. It was not hard, but it was physically tough. It was hard pulling the hoses off. Make sure you remove the top fittings to get the tanks out. Also remove the aluminum brackets. It took me an 1.5 hours. I can do it faster next time now that I know what I am doing.

Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-16-2010, 11:31 AM Reply   
I will follow up with more info after I get my bags installed. I expect them Wednesday the 17th.
Old     (dennish)      Join Date: May 2005       02-16-2010, 6:05 PM Reply   
Based on those dimensions above 27 x47x 23 = 1054#
Old     (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       02-16-2010, 7:03 PM Reply   
If you are using the spa hose like the boat came with use a heat gun to heat up the hose this makes it much easier to install the fittings
Old     (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       02-16-2010, 7:08 PM Reply   
noticed opening in the locker you could have some sacs like these madeUploadI just installed a set in my falcon v
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-17-2010, 9:03 AM Reply   

I am buying custom bags, I am getting a bag that is 50x20x20. I am not sure how full it will get, but if it gets really full than I will be totally happy.

Harold, the heat gun works great. I have done that in the past. As for the bag you pictured, I wish that would fit, but that thing is bigger than the whole boat, LOL. But seriously, it would not fit.

I checked the wakemakers site yesterday, and for some reason they have not shipped my bags yet? They must be back ordered. When I originally ordered the bags, I was told I was going to get them by the 12th. Now who knows when?

Old     (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       02-17-2010, 7:50 PM Reply   
the bag body is 50x20x20 and the arm is22 long 20wide and 10 high and runs forward under the seats in an opening similar to yours not much larger than what you want to install. my boat is only 20'9" I ordered my custom sacs from wake outlaws $634 for two custom sac's and one inch fittings
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-18-2010, 9:45 AM Reply   
FYI, the intake and vent hoses are 1 1/8" and the drain hose is 3/4". I thought that was weird. I would have thought they would all be the same size or at least the vent hose be the smallest. Also, I noticed my buddy's 2009 V215, his ballast pumps are located in a different spot than my boat. Which might make the new bags interfere with the location of the 2009 V215 pumps? I wish I had a picture for you?
Old     (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       02-18-2010, 10:10 AM Reply   
1 1/8" I think fly high comes standard with 3/4"but can be ordered wit larger fittings.are they left over's just gutted my system and redid the hole thing using reversible pumps and checks so water is pumped over the side.I did a thread on centurion crew titled falcon v custom ballast install complete with pics Upload
Old     (extremeisaac)      Join Date: Aug 2005       02-20-2010, 12:52 PM Reply   
so dave.. with the bags full in the back, you will lose all your storage space in the back compartments? where do you store all the vests, helmets, extra handles etc with 750lb sacs in the rear?
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       02-20-2010, 1:08 PM Reply   
Dave, Looking forward to the pics. Off topic question for you: why is your boat on jack stands in the garage?

Harold, that looks awesome!
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-21-2010, 12:34 PM Reply   
Isaac, I will be loosing the much needed storage space. Especially for the anchors and tool box. But I love the big wake so it is a sacrafice I am willing to make. I will still have a little bit of storage on top of the bags. I will post pictures when I get to that stage.

DW, My boat is on jack stands to make sure any water that seaps through the cover drains out.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       02-21-2010, 2:49 PM Reply   
oh. lol, looks like its in the garage...
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-22-2010, 9:27 AM Reply   
Ok guys, I got the kit on Friday and this is what one side of the kit looks like and comes with.


I then took the bag to the boat and found that I really just need the 1 1/8" elbows/quick disconnects for the water fill and vent. As for teh drain line the kit came with a straight hook up which will not work perfect.


Sorry for the blurry picture, at any rate this part needs to an elbow. Then it would be perfect.

There is now need for any additonall hoses as supplied for my kit. All the stock hoses have enough lenght to make great connections. I will be getting in touch with wakemakers to get the required 90 elbow fitting. By the way this fitting needs to be a 3/4" not a 1 1/8" like the fill and vent.

Here is a picture of the coupling between the bag and my stock house.


After I get this part all will be super easy to install. The only issue I see now is a full ballast bag will be pushing against these bolts.


I think I will just lay 2 pop bags against them to protect the bag?

Thats all for now.

Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       02-22-2010, 11:31 AM Reply   
So, Dave, is that a custom bag?

I'd lay a piece or two of carpet over those bolts, dont wanna pop the pop bags...
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-22-2010, 1:43 PM Reply   
Not a custom bag, it is a stock bag. I am still think about what I can do to protect my bag against those bolts.
Old     (ralph)      Join Date: Apr 2002       02-22-2010, 2:13 PM Reply   
I would cut a piece of wood in a block and drill out holes the right size to press over the bolts. You could epoxy and paint the wood black and it would look ok.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-22-2010, 4:04 PM Reply   
I am thinking a yoga block (hard foam) and cut it to size.
Old     (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       02-22-2010, 4:31 PM Reply   
large rubber vacuum caps over the ends of the bolts will do the trick
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       02-22-2010, 4:38 PM Reply   
Hey Dave are you going to brace the walls that separate the compartment from the engine? I'll be excited to see this all done so I can order mine!
Old     (jumpit13)      Join Date: Oct 2006       02-22-2010, 5:24 PM Reply   
I did the same thing to my 2005 V215 last August had 2 issues the bolts (cut the extra off and put a wood block hole for the nuts , the other was bag would drain out the fill pump and syphon out drain because drain is lower then top of the bag. I solved the 1st problem check valve and the 2nd by routing the drain line and vent line as high possible. I might go with a reversable pump to get rid of 1 pump. But it works for now.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       02-23-2010, 9:11 AM Reply   
I will cut the bolts short for sure, I like the high density foam idea. Although a piece of wood would work too. I have had problems with my stock tanks losing water so I can see why a check valve would be needed. Does anyone now of a good one that is not a gravity type that will not impact the flow of the ballast pump to much?

As for the syphon issue, I will see what happens.

Last, for strengthening the sides of the engine compartment, I don't know if you really have to do much there. If it bows into the motor, who cares? But if I feel there is an issue there, I have a couple of ideas. I will keep you posted.
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-07-2010, 12:25 PM Reply   
Hey dave can you post or PM me a list of all the parts needed to complete the switchover? Thanks!

Just-In-Time- I sent you my serial number. Did you get it?
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       03-07-2010, 3:08 PM Reply   
Ryan/Dave - LOL, send me the list too. Stereo just finished, whew hoo! Ready to take on the left rear ballast!

Still cant PM darn it!
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-08-2010, 2:11 PM Reply   
Ryan and DW I will put a post up of all the parts I installed. With a Photo. I believe now I have ever part I need. Now all I need is my boat back from the shop. When I get it back I will take more photos and also fill the bags to see how much water I can really hold in them. But for now off the top of my head, you really don't need many parts. Just 2 bags, 4 one inch 90's, 2 3/4 90's, 2 anti syphon check valves, the attachments to the bags, and some hose clamps. When I am done with the whole set up, Wakemakers will have the 2005 V215 kit dialed. I did notice that my buddys 2009 V215 is plumbed different than mine. So keep that in mind you V215 owners.
Old     (jasonwm)      Join Date: Mar 2009       03-10-2010, 10:28 AM Reply   
As Dave mentioned we'll have a full kit available that is specific to V215s shortly. There's no extra charge for the kits over the cost of all of the components included, we just like to offer them for our customers to simplify the installation.

We'll have to track down when they changed the setup in the newer boats, but for right now we've got a good starting place.

Like I mentioned above, if anyone wants to help us develop a kit for their year/make/model of boat we'll get you setup with a discount on the product for your time. Feel free to contact us for more information.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-10-2010, 10:40 AM Reply   
I will shoot some pics later this week with all the parts and the install. I hope to work on my boat this weekend depending on my OT situation at work.
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-12-2010, 10:27 PM Reply   
Originally Posted by dave27 View Post
Ryan and DW I will put a post up of all the parts I installed. With a Photo. I believe now I have ever part I need. Now all I need is my boat back from the shop. When I get it back I will take more photos and also fill the bags to see how much water I can really hold in them. But for now off the top of my head, you really don't need many parts. Just 2 bags, 4 one inch 90's, 2 3/4 90's, 2 anti syphon check valves, the attachments to the bags, and some hose clamps. When I am done with the whole set up, Wakemakers will have the 2005 V215 kit dialed. I did notice that my buddys 2009 V215 is plumbed different than mine. So keep that in mind you V215 owners.
Hey Dave sorry to bother you again but I'm going to try to order my kit tomorrow or Sunday so I just wanted to run by everything I will need to order. Please correct or add anything I am missing:

2 - 750lbs sacs(W707)
4 - 1" elbow fittings(W746)
4 - 1" bag connections(W743)
2 - 3/4" elbows(W742)
2 - 3/4" bag fittings(W736)
2 - anti syphone check valves(

Do I need extra hose or anything else? Thanks a ton Dave! I really appreciate all your help and for leading this venture for the rest of us.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-15-2010, 12:49 PM Reply   
Here it is!
Attached Images
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       03-15-2010, 1:02 PM Reply   
Thanks Dave - great thread here. Really appreciate you taking the time and energy to help the rest of us out.

Any concerns with those hose clamps damaging the bags? and
How was the side pressure on the wall toward the engine?

I am thinking about using the 1100# sack - Im only doing the port side for surfing. Bag is same length but 24 high and 24 wide (so maybe more pressure on flexible wall...)

Thanks again
Old     (taft)      Join Date: Jul 2006       03-15-2010, 1:19 PM Reply   
Hey DW,

I have some standard 750lbs bags in my lockers right now, squeezed in with the hard tanks. Right now it puts some good pressure on the walls to the engine. They are bowed in as they are pretty flexible when warm.

It wouldn't be too hard to leave them outside on a hot day with weight on the other side to set them straight again, I'm sure.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-15-2010, 1:22 PM Reply   
DW, glad I could help. The side pressure on the engine wall (removable) doesn't seem bad. Even if it does bow into the engine, who cares. The engin is super strong and it does flex around like a car engine does. So, I am not worried at all. Here is my newest updated ballast weight slide.
Attached Images
Old     (taft)      Join Date: Jul 2006       03-15-2010, 2:41 PM Reply   
I just noticed how balanced the weight is distributed from front to back. Is there a reason why you opted not to have very much weight in the rear compartments?
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-15-2010, 3:47 PM Reply   
Oh what to do...... I thought those bags would fill more than 550ish. What about leaving the stock tanks(250lbs) and adding the 400lb(42"x16"x16") v-drive sacs? It looks like there is only 14" of clearance but you should be able to get at least 300lbs out of them to be at the same weight right? And it would be a little cheaper. Anyone know what parts would be needed to run from the tanks to the bags?
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-15-2010, 4:30 PM Reply   
I think your math is a little bit off.
71 gallons x 8.33= 591lbs
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       03-15-2010, 5:55 PM Reply   
Looking at Dave's full locker, looks like there might be a little more room. I'm goin with the 1100#'er to see if I can get a little bit more. We'll see...
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-15-2010, 6:04 PM Reply   
Andrew. The Sanger loves weight in the bow. I'm going to experiment with even more weight in the front.

Ryan. My math was times 8 not 8.33. But you are right. Good catch.

I didn't have any one check my work so I'm sure I have some minor errors here and there.

When I measured the bag capacity, I fill up that 32 gallon can twice then what was left over I poured into a 5 gallon gas can. I did loose some water on the way. But nothing major
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-15-2010, 10:37 PM Reply   
Placed my order for the same kit today with wakemakers. Thanks again Dave for all the leg work!
Old     (jasonwm)      Join Date: Mar 2009       03-15-2010, 10:47 PM Reply   
Originally Posted by dave27 View Post
Here it is!
Nice write up Dave, glad you got the project finished up. Just a note to those that are interested in this kit, it will be up on our site shortly, and will include all of the required components as per Dave's install.

If anyone is interested in helping us develop similar kits for other models please feel free to contact me and I'll outline the details and discount of our beta program.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-16-2010, 8:35 AM Reply   
Jason, I am glad I could help out the wake community. Can't wait to see the system on the site. It is really simple. I bet you can do the hole job in less than 5 hours easy. If you don't wrestl with the tanks for as long as it took me you will be under 4 hours. On a side note, your hose clamps you send with your kits, sorry to say, suck. You can't use a nut driver on them b/c the distance between the hose and the nut is to tight. A slotted screw driver is just not good. I used my own hose clamps, stainless steel, that use a 5/16 nut driver. So much better. Cheers guys and good luck.
Old     (jetskiprosx)      Join Date: Aug 2004       03-21-2010, 5:16 PM Reply   
Do you have any leaking problems with the check valve being 1" and the hoses being 1 1/8" ?

Last edited by jetskiprosx; 03-21-2010 at 5:19 PM.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-22-2010, 2:42 PM Reply   
Patrick, I will let you know, I am taking the boat out this weekend. But when I put it together I tried twisting the check valve and the hose to valve was really tight. I was wondering the same thing. Anyone what a pull this Sat or Sun, to check out the new system?
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-22-2010, 3:19 PM Reply   
Where are you taking the boat this weekend. I wouldn't mind just checking it out before you launch.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-25-2010, 11:28 AM Reply   
Rivers end!
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-29-2010, 8:31 AM Reply   
First off, Sorry Ryan for not PM'img you, I forgot.

So I took out the Snager this weekend. The wake was great. I had a problem with the system though. The check valves were leaking where my stock Sanger filler hose "1 1/8" was. I think I need one inch hoses. I thought I might have a proble here. The stock hose has that plastic that is in the rubber hose making it hard to compress down to a 1 inch check valve. I believe Wakemakers gave me some 1 inch hose so I will measure that out and see if it cures the problem. I will put up some pictures soon and also some pictures of the wake.

As far as the parts list goes,

2x w707 Fat Sacs
4x w743 1" Male Quick Connects
4x w746 1" Female Elbow Quick Connects
2x w736 3/4" Male Quick Connects
2x w742 3/4" Female Elbow Quick Connects
2x 698-LV1215 1" non-return check valves

Pluse some hose clamps. And now maybe changing the filler hose to 1 from the stock 1 1/8 to stop the leak on the check valves.

Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       03-31-2010, 1:17 PM Reply   
I rebuilt the fill hoses out of 1" hose. I will install asap and tell you if the problem is fixed. I believe it will be fixed. I still need to measure out the length of hose you will need to fix this.

Next problem is, I need to look at/figure out, how to make sure the bags drain all the way. I will give you an update on that later. For now the pumps quit pumping (they are not self priming pumps) so the appear to be done but they aren't. I might change the stock drain hose routing to fix this.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       03-31-2010, 1:41 PM Reply   
Thanks Dave, let us know and pics are always appreciated.

My kit just arrived today. playin around with the check valves, doesnt feel like they're sealing 100% - maybe 95%... Maybe that's good enuf, I'll have to wait and see.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-06-2010, 2:20 PM Reply   
Ok I finally measured the hose you need to complete this project. I removed my 1 1/8 spa hose a replaced it with wakemakers 1 inch house. I don't know how hard it will be to stretch the hose over the ballast pumps but I know it will. Each one of these hoses I built to about 54" total length. So the kit wakemakers makes should send you about 10 feet of hose to make your life easier.
Attached Images
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-09-2010, 9:44 PM Reply   
Is there any special glue to use around the fittings? I heard PVC cement is the best?
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-09-2010, 9:56 PM Reply   
Shouldn't need to glue anything. At least I didn't. The fittings are threaded and there's an o-ring seal. Add a hose clamp and yur goodtago.
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-10-2010, 8:18 AM Reply   
So the 3/4" vent hose connects to the bottom port on the bags and the two 1" to the top ports?
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-10-2010, 9:21 AM Reply   
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-10-2010, 11:09 AM Reply   
Thanks Derek! Doing mine right now...
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-10-2010, 10:45 PM Reply   
Finally finished my 750 switch over on my 2006 Sanger V215 today. Everything was the same as Dave's. Stick with his instructions and you will be right on the money! Here are some pics of my install. I was too lazy to cut the bolts off in the compartments so i just made some wood blocks and 45'd the corners so they weren't sharp. On the first side I used two pieces of 3/4" MDF and drilled the two 1" holes for the bolts to come through and the other I just used a 2x4. I didn't take a picture but I carpeted them both before install. The only problem I have is one of the hoses has a slow drip right where it connects to the anti-syphone valve. I can't seem to get the clamp any tighter either so I'm trying to figure out a better way to seal it there. Thanks again Dave for all the help and info!
Attached Images
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-12-2010, 1:36 PM Reply   
Great job Ryan, I have to laugh at you a little bit, in good fun, you were to lazy to cut the bolts so you made those bolt pertectors. That looks way more involved then cutting 4 SS steal bolts and throwing a piece of foam in front of them. Looks great by the way. I saw you asked about the 3/4 line. That one goes to the back of the bag and is for emptying. The back top 1 inch is the fill and the forward front 1 inch it the vent, correct?

You have the new 1 inch line correct, not the factory 1 1/8? And you still had a leak? I was thinking just wrapping some tape around the check valve fitting then putting the hose back on, just a thought.
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-12-2010, 5:41 PM Reply   
Lol thanks Dave. I noticed the 3/4" drain hose converts to a 1" at the pump. Did you think about changing the 3/4" hose to 1"? Seems like it would be an easy switchout and the bags would drain faster? I have some 1" hose left over so I think I might look into this a little more.
Old     (jetskiprosx)      Join Date: Aug 2004       04-12-2010, 7:44 PM Reply   
I put in my check valves this weekend and I too had to replace the 1 1/8" spa hose with 1" braided hose. The check valves solved the draining problem and he sacks stayed full!
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-12-2010, 7:50 PM Reply   
Dave or Ryan, Have you guys tried out the new setup? How is it working? Any problems? I have mine installed, but in the rainy northwest, it will probably be another 6-8 weeks before I get my boat in the water.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-13-2010, 10:48 AM Reply   
I have not made it back out to the Delta since I found out the stock spa hose 1 1/8 leaked at the check valves. I know have the 1 inch set up ready to install. Ryan, was is hard to get the 1 inch house onto the pirahna pumps? did you use lube? Anyway I hope this weekend the weather holds out. Then I will know for sure it the system is leak tight.

Problems I see having now are, the bags don't like to drain all the way b/c where the drain hose is located in the bag and that we don't have self priming pumps.

Another problem I see is (look at my diagram of how I weight my boat) is I have a lot of lead in the front of the boat so if I have no water ballast in the boat and I stop from 20 mph to stop, It looks like the nose just might dip. NOT really but I did get the pucker factor!

For how I weight my boat, I ride at 24 mph at 73 feet. I am a w2w rider. I get booted. I love it.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-13-2010, 11:14 AM Reply   
I put a 1" hose on the fill tube after you mentioned the issue with the 1 1/8" hose. If you take a minute and heat it up with a heat gun or maybe hair dryer, no issue - slides right on. Hope this helps.

I would think the drain would work well. the drain hose is on the bottom of the bag, so the pump should be plenty primed - its lower than the bag lol
Old     (mendo247)      Join Date: Mar 2005       04-13-2010, 8:35 PM Reply   
Nice work Guys!!! Very nice work..

I'm really torn on wether or not to switch over to bags. The thought of loosing all that storage when they are filled is concerning.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-13-2010, 9:21 PM Reply   
Coop, I only switched over the surf side. and I went with the 1100#'er. But I'm not a hardcore wakeboarder... yet. Still have storage on the other side + the hard tank. Another thoughts, you dont have to fill them completely full. You could still get more than 250# and have life jackets or sumpin on top of the bags...
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-14-2010, 8:29 AM Reply   
I through all my light stuff on top of the bags, life jackets soft bags kids etc. I don't have anything on top of the bags when filling but once full through what ever you want in there as longs as its not sharp. I love my wake. The stock wake imo is way to small.
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-14-2010, 1:33 PM Reply   
I haven't had a chance yet to try my new setup. I'm accually in Florida at the wakeboard camp this week. If any of u guys have the means and want to get better fast I highly reccommend spending a week here! We are on our way to the cable park in Orlando right now.

Dave- I did have trouble getting the hoses on the pumps. I put some soapy water on the barbes of the pump and used a heat gun on the tubing for about 3 minutes and they stretched right over easily. If I ever had to get them off it's going to be a pain. I'm going to see if I have enough tubing to change the 3/4 hose to 1" when I get back. I'll keep ya posted!

Coop- you run a lot of lead don't you? How is it towing with all the lead? Do you move it around for towing or is it already evenly distributed? I would say it's totally worth losing the space. I had to take all the stuff out of my lockers and I realized I have never used anything that was in there anyway. I had like 10 life jackets but I only ride with 3-4 people anyway. I think you will be surprised at what you do without.

Last edited by ryanw209; 04-14-2010 at 1:38 PM.
Old     (helinut)      Join Date: Apr 2007       04-14-2010, 4:05 PM Reply   
Where might I pick up some of those anti siphons? Those look nice. I need em.

Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-14-2010, 5:53 PM Reply
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-14-2010, 8:57 PM Reply   
Shawn- someone told me lowes sells some anti syphon so check there if you want. We all got ours from wakemakers
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-26-2010, 9:24 AM Reply   
Finally rode again this weekend. I put the new 1" hoses in (the fill hoses with the check valves). They worked great. No leaks. It was a bitch getting the 1" hose on. But a heat gun and binding lube did the trick. I still don't like how the bags don't fully empty. But when I get the boat home I will look at that further. I was thinking about turning the bags around so the empty hoses are towards the bow, your thoughts? Anyway the wake is great. I don't like that when I have all the ballast empty that the nose of the sanger is so low. I keep 450lbs of lead up there. I am think about/how to have one more ballast bag up there, but I don't want bags on the floor. but oh well I guess.

How is everyone else doing with there projects?
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-26-2010, 10:06 PM Reply   
I'm taking mine out Friday so I'll let you know. I was trying to think of a solution to get the bags to drain and the only thing I could think of was just driving slow so the bow is up to get all the water to drain to the back. Do you think that will work? I don't see how flipping the bags around will help them drain. Can't wait to try out the new wake!!!
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       04-27-2010, 7:49 AM Reply   
I wonder if we could put a plywood ramp under the bags to make the bags drain better (toward the back)?
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       04-27-2010, 8:32 AM Reply   
I got them to drain pretty good on the boat ramp. But I am at the delta where the ramps are really steep. A typical natural boat ramp won't be as steep. But your right running your boat at about 10mph not on plane would work but sucks gas.
Old     (no_really)      Join Date: Jan 2009       05-06-2010, 8:27 PM Reply   
Any pictures of the wakes?
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       05-06-2010, 8:44 PM Reply   
Not from me. In the Northwest it is still too cold to get out. Another month or so...
Old     (ryanw209)      Join Date: Jan 2010       05-07-2010, 5:34 PM Reply   
I'll try to get you a pic when I go out this week. With the 750's in the rear, 500 in the locker, and two- 280's on the front seats the wake is perfect for me. Night and day compared to the stock wake.
Old     (clotus)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-07-2010, 6:37 PM Reply   
I am hopefully going to be going this route in the future so I have been following very closely. Some pics of the wake would be awesome. For draining the bags couldn't you just lift the end of the bag up forcing the water to the rear once it gets close to empty???? I do this with my front bag when I need it real empty. But in my experience bags don't ever get drained completely using a pump.
Old     (no_really)      Join Date: Jan 2009       05-07-2010, 8:51 PM Reply   
Come on man-put on that dry suit!!

I will be patient - Thank You
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       05-10-2010, 11:48 AM Reply   
The way the rear bags are plumbed it doesn't make it easy draining even if you do lift up one end of the bag. I have some photos of the wake but they are stuck in my friends camera. I will Ping him today to get them!


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