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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through February 09, 2007

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Old     (sinkoumn)      Join Date: Jan 2007       01-20-2007, 7:38 PM Reply   
Could I get some feedback on this diagram? This is what I came up with after doing quite a bit of searching through the forums. I am going to get started on building a light setup and want to have the lights setup so I can switch between only having the fronts on when the rocker switch is pushed up; and then have BOTH front and back on when I flip the rocker switch down.

Does the way I have the diagram drawn up look as though it will work? Or are there issues that I don't see with the way I have it setup?

Also, I am a little confused as to how I would wire the CARLINGSWITCH so that the LED lights up either on top or on the bottom depending on which way I flip the rocker-switch.

I am no expert, so I would appreciate any help that you can give in regards to this setup.

I would like to have a choice between only having the fronts on, or Both front and back on. I am using mainly for docking at night, so most of the time I won't need the rear's on (the rears would be nice to have if interior light is needed).

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(Message edited by sinkoumn on January 20, 2007)
Old     (sinkoumn)      Join Date: Jan 2007       01-21-2007, 9:14 AM Reply   
I guess I'm mainly concerned with wiring the 3-way switch so the LED is setup correctly depending on which way it's pushed.

I used the ((total watts)/12)=Amps, to get the amps on each relay. If it's about 14amps for the 3 lights, would the 20 amp relay be fine? Or should I step down to 15amp relay?

Anyone?

This is my last diagram question, I SWEAR! :-)
Old     (rallyart)      Join Date: Nov 2006       01-21-2007, 9:45 AM Reply   
I'm not familiar with that switch but there doesn't seem to be any problem with the layout. Normally the LED in switches would be hardwired in and not something you have to worry about. The packaging should give you basic wiring functions.
The 15 amp relays would do fine as your 12 volt system is actually 13.8 volts. However, the 20 amps allows you to go to a higher wattage lamp later so that might be nice.
Someone who knows the switch you're going to use could help you better.
Old     (sinkoumn)      Join Date: Jan 2007       01-21-2007, 10:10 AM Reply   
Okay thanks much, I don't have the switch on hand - have to wait a week for it to come in. But I just wanted to take a stab at it and see if everything is where it should be (but I am pretty sure that the LED is wired wrong).
Old     (sea_ray_dave)      Join Date: Dec 2004       01-21-2007, 11:13 AM Reply   
I have done a similiar set up but I only used one lighted LED switch at the dash. It is the power on for all the lights. But when siwtched on will only turn on the fronts. I put another toggle switch on the light bar itself and that switch will turn on the rears. It gets that rear lights power at the light bar from the fronts. This set up has worked better than I thought. It would also eliminate two relays from your set up, the carling switch and a ton of wiring and some headaches too. I also added a quick connect/disconnect so the light bar can be taken off easily if desired.

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