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12-02-2013, 4:20 PM
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Just wanted to share this project over here.
Purchased the boat 10/16/13
1986 Supra Sunsport. 351w 1:1 velvet drive.
Rotten floor and foam soaked. Interior was mostly missing and or rotten.
http://supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=15772
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12-02-2013, 4:36 PM
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12-02-2013, 4:38 PM
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12-02-2013, 4:51 PM
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12-02-2013, 5:35 PM
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12-02-2013, 5:38 PM
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12-02-2013, 5:41 PM
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That pretty much catches up on the last 6 weeks. I will update this thread as I progress.
One last pic....
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Join Date: Jul 2013
12-02-2013, 5:51 PM
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if your not on the supra form you need to be they would like it
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Join Date: Feb 2008
12-02-2013, 6:21 PM
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Awesome project, love seeing these older boats brought back to life. Hope you got a great deal on it, that looks like a ton of labor.
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Join Date: Nov 2012
12-02-2013, 6:35 PM
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Fantastic work, I applaud ur effort and hard work
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Join Date: Sep 2011
12-02-2013, 6:36 PM
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Jeeeeeeersus you make the guy whose redoing that other boat and doing an epic job look like a slacker....
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Join Date: Oct 2006
12-02-2013, 6:54 PM
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So awesome!
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Join Date: Aug 2004
12-02-2013, 6:59 PM
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This is awesome. Nice work!
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Join Date: Feb 2010
12-02-2013, 7:28 PM
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Nicely done. You will have one great looking boat when you are finished and you will know the whole boat inside out. Is this your first project like this? Talk about determination.
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Join Date: Jun 2004
12-02-2013, 9:27 PM
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Amazing work! Keep us posted on the progress
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Join Date: Dec 2012
12-02-2013, 9:39 PM
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This build is insane! You are amazing my friend. I hope you'll like that kind of work, cuz I'm sure you got more time in the shop than most people spend at there jobs.
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Join Date: Apr 2013
12-03-2013, 4:17 AM
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Wow. Probably the nicest rebuild I have seen. Awesome to see the hull split. Going to be a new boat once you're done with it.
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Join Date: Dec 2012
12-03-2013, 4:53 AM
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Awesome rebuild - cant wait to see more pics
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Join Date: Dec 2011
12-03-2013, 6:02 AM
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This is an Epic project. So glad to see this happening.
Have you ever considered converting the boat to be a V-Drive?
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Join Date: Oct 2006
12-03-2013, 6:28 AM
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So sick. Can't wait to see more progress.
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Join Date: Mar 2013
12-03-2013, 6:40 AM
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I think every Sunsport deserves to be saved haha and you are doing a killer job! Keep it up! Pumped to see this project come together.
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Join Date: Aug 2013
12-03-2013, 8:03 AM
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Wowie
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Join Date: Jun 2002
12-03-2013, 9:51 AM
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Good work! Keep updating us this is a killer project.
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Join Date: May 2013
12-03-2013, 3:44 PM
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Great seeing these builds! Faith that not everyone has to buy stupid expensive boats to look good and have fun!
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Join Date: Aug 2007
12-04-2013, 11:55 AM
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great job - keep up the awesome work!
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Join Date: Nov 2013
12-04-2013, 3:57 PM
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Looks Awesome, keep the pics coming!
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Join Date: Aug 2012
12-04-2013, 5:36 PM
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V-Drive....
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12-04-2013, 5:43 PM
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Test fit of the new stringer system.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
12-05-2013, 8:50 AM
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Considering it's a boat wouldn't it be wise to use pressure treated wood over a non treated?
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12-05-2013, 9:40 AM
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Nope. Glass, primers and paint do not adhere to pressure treated lumber well, it is typically saturated and distorts as it dries, and it's very heavy. The new wood is getting a couple coats of CPES. Then it will be glassed in, primed, painted and will last another 30+ years.
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Join Date: Dec 2011
12-05-2013, 9:42 AM
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pressure treating prevents insects, not water damage.
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12-07-2013, 11:58 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-07-2013, 12:57 PM
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This is absolutely insane...I thought the Hydrodyne that was up a while back was an epic resto, but this one even blows away that scale of work. Takes some serious balls to split the hull...And that boat looks like it's gonna be a bad mofo when done. I like how deep they hull is considering it's age. That thing should be able to handle a good bit of weight and still not sit too low in the water while still throwing a good size wake. Can't wait to see what you do with the rest of it.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-07-2013, 2:05 PM
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Also, I'd take advantage of this process toss in some serious weight. I know you probably won't be able to do very much under floor weight in the back, but the front should be easy. Id probably gut that trunk space and load it and the space under the bench for a bit more room too. 2,000 lbs should be feasible with some careful planning. Looking at the early pics, I almost wonder if you could do some tall, narrow bags in the side gunnels since they're enclosed? Also, I hope you're getting rid of those front grab rails...they are god-awful ugly.
Also, the V-drive conversion would be an absolutely insane and cool upgrade if you can pull it off. I saw over on the Supra thread that you are a powersports mechanic...seems like if anyone could pull it off, you'd be the guy. Plus that interior would be absolutely massive with the motor relocated rearward...and make it a much better surf boat and easier to weight since that's what your thread title says this boat is going to be...
Not terrible prices...getting any inspiration yet?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walter-v-dri...49de3d&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borg-Warner-...0ee969&vxp=mtr
Last edited by FastR3DN3K; 12-07-2013 at 2:07 PM.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-07-2013, 2:14 PM
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You might not be able to mount the motor all the way to the rear as far as it could possibly go, but it also looks like you have a couple inches that you could take off the prop shaft to gain a couple inches backwards if you did decide to do the conversion. Plus that would give you the option for massive lockers on either side for more ballast. Then you could lift the floors in the lockers a few inches to gain underfloor ballast, and still have the option for storage or even more ballast in the lockers above.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-07-2013, 2:21 PM
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Hope you don't mind me blowing your budget for you (lol), but there's a wedge for sale dirt cheap in the classifieds if you wanted to add some more size to your wake for cheap:
http://www.wakeworld.com/classifield....php?view=3826
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Join Date: Jul 2012
12-07-2013, 3:19 PM
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600 is not cheap.
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Join Date: Sep 2005
12-07-2013, 3:46 PM
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Wowww..........
Restorations of anything are always cool to see. Thanks for posting... I'm looking forward to following this! I woulda ate my gun two days into the project......
Are you considering some built in or concealed ballast in the hull to keep the deck clear? Is that even an option?
Last edited by clubjoe; 12-07-2013 at 3:49 PM.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-07-2013, 4:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezul
600 is not cheap.
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I think it's supposed to be $60 like listed in the info...I'm guessing the $600 in the description is a typo...
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12-08-2013, 6:37 PM
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$600 is correct, I texted him . Thanks for the heads up tho!
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-10-2013, 7:36 PM
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Damn...$600 is insane...oh well, I tried
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Join Date: Sep 2008
12-12-2013, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastR3DN3K
Damn...$600 is insane...oh well, I tried
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$600 for a floating wedge and bracket is cheap. They are $1200 new and are rarely found used. I lucked out earlier this year and scored a used bracket but had to buy the foul new...I have $900 wrapped up into converting from a fixed to floating wedge.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
12-12-2013, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrousbird
$600 for a floating wedge and bracket is cheap. They are $1200 new and are rarely found used. I lucked out earlier this year and scored a used bracket but had to buy the foul new...I have $900 wrapped up into converting from a fixed to floating wedge.
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Yeah, after looking around I see that now. Ebay is showing around $700 for just the wedge/foil, and another $400 for the transom bracket. I've never had a boat with it, nor needed/wanted it, so I didn't know. But the guys classified ad is still showing $60 for it...wonder how many people have messaged him about it...lol.
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Join Date: Sep 2008
12-12-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastR3DN3K
Yeah, after looking around I see that now. Ebay is showing around $700 for just the wedge/foil, and another $400 for the transom bracket. I've never had a boat with it, nor needed/wanted it, so I didn't know.
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All of the stuff on eBay currently is the manual wedge stuff. What I saw listed:
- Manual Wedge bracket @ $426 shipped
- A wake hull and a diamond hull Wedge foil for $670 shipped
There aren't a lot of used manual wedge stuff for sale out there but you will see that 10x more often than any floating wedge stuff.
For comparison, I sold my used manual wedge/bracket (included backing plate and bolts...basically everything needed) a few months ago for $590, no shipping or auction fees and had another buyer lined up when I sold it. This is for original stuff off of my '01. So my upgrade only cost me a little over $300 once I got my old one sold, though the upgrade from manual to floating wasn't worth it from a wake standpoint (isn't any different), but was from a looks and ease of use standpoint.
Floating wedge is all stainless steel and uses the same backing plate, transom bolts and mounting holes as the manual wedge; the wedge and transom bracket are the difference.
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Join Date: Aug 2002
12-12-2013, 3:03 PM
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A wedge on this hull would be useless. If you take the factory wakeplate off, I doubt if it would get on plane with any more than 1000lb crew/ballast. This hull is very ass heavy. I run about 2000-3000lbs none of it aft of the engine. 800 up front in a 1100 bag under front bow seat plus 500 each side of engine and position my crew mid ship up to +5. If anyone get in the rear stargazer wont stay locked on. That's with a flat wakeplate set up for slalom ski. I pull BSU Ski and Wake teams with my old 87. BTW had to cut a 13x13 4 blade down to a 11.5 pitch to handle the weight.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
12-14-2013, 9:37 AM
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I haven't posted anything over here in a long, LONG time but I had to jump in on this one. What a kickass project. Really impressive man.
I'm curious as what your ballast configuration plan is? I only ask because I've been really happy with mine and thought I'd throw it out there for you as an idea. I'm not knowledgeable of that hull at all so take it with a grain of salt. I reconfigured the trunk on my '00 Tige 22i a couple years ago. I decided to put a different shape fuel tank in to get more better ballast and put in a fuel tank more suited to surfing. I got rid of the long thin tank (very much like the one in your Supra there) and put in more of a cube shape tank. This allowed me to put two custom sacs on either side of it. I had some custom sacs made to fit the new compartments and the results have been fantastic. It moves all the water weight to the corners and keeps the fuel weight right on top of the stringers. It resulted in a much less sensitive hull when skiing and more effective ballast when surfing. I'm also no longer worried about running the boat out of fuel from having it listed to the opposite side of the fuel sump for too long since the pick-up in the new tank is dead center rear of the tank. Best conservative guestimates are around 450# each side. The sacs will hold 600+ but, they are a little over sized. That Supra is obviously much deeper.
Just something to think about. Looking forward to some more progress on your beast.
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12-14-2013, 2:44 PM
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My plan is to move the fuel tank forward about 16". The "ski locker" will be cut out and I will have a 750 in each rear corner. I also have two 400's that will be going mid ship on either side. I have 2 reversible impeller pumps that will be for right/left fill & drain.
Progress is slow now but once the floor goes down it should speed up so stay tuned
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Join Date: Jun 2004
12-14-2013, 7:46 PM
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Curious what's the benefit of a floating wedge over a fixed?
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Join Date: Nov 2012
12-15-2013, 3:41 PM
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biggsie, I sent you a PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
12-15-2013, 5:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norcalmalibu
Curious what's the benefit of a floating wedge over a fixed?
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It is supposed to self adjust to give max downforce. I didn't see any wake improvement going from fixed to floating. Other advantages that are proven:
- All stainless, looks better
- Dont have to lock it down or unlock it to stow it, so it is easier to deploy
- A little more sturdy as the foil is a one piece construction
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12-15-2013, 7:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprocketeer
biggsie, I sent you a PM
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I have no messages sir.
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Join Date: Nov 2012
12-15-2013, 9:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggsie
I have no messages sir.
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Just can't seem to get to your profile to leave you a message.
Your project is awesome! I am looking to sell a tower off of my Supra and just wanted to see if you were interested. PM me if you are.
Last edited by sprocketeer; 12-15-2013 at 9:21 PM.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
12-16-2013, 9:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggsie
My plan is to move the fuel tank forward about 16". The "ski locker" will be cut out and I will have a 750 in each rear corner. I also have two 400's that will be going mid ship on either side. I have 2 reversible impeller pumps that will be for right/left fill & drain.
Progress is slow now but once the floor goes down it should speed up so stay tuned
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I went with revesable impellers as well. They work perfect but, I kinda wish I had figured out a way to get some of those big Rules in there. I just had no where to go with 'em.
So the tank will be more or less under the back seat then? Looking at that tank, I assume just far enough that the filler neck will still be in the rear compartment? Man, your gonna have some serious weight back there. Should be bitchin. FWIW, I got all my ballast supplies through MLA (Mike's Liquid Audio). I can't say enough about his customer service. As long as he around, I will get all my stuff through him. I know, I know, shameless plug but the guy earned it.
I'm definitely staying tuned. This build is awesome. Rock, rock on.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
12-17-2013, 6:11 PM
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Can't wait to see this finished. Great job.
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
01-07-2014, 7:06 AM
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So any updates on this fantastic project? I looked over on the Supra forum and didn't see any updates over there either. Bumping to keep this thing alive.
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Join Date: Nov 2013
01-08-2014, 6:26 AM
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So awesome!!! Keep up the great work!!!!
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Join Date: Nov 2013
01-08-2014, 6:27 AM
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#suprafreak
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Join Date: Nov 2013
01-08-2014, 6:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggsie
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Send me your address. I work at Skiers Choice and we would like to send you a #SUPRAFREAK care package for your awesome project you're working on!!
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Join Date: Jul 2008
01-17-2014, 8:24 AM
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Bump.
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01-21-2014, 9:46 PM
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Sorry guys, progress is still slow. Got the stringer system all ready to go, fabricated a new pylon base that is much closer to the engine, ordered my Tiger Foam, and now I have to get the bilge area ready for paint. I cut one piece of ply for the floor today and it is going to work out nicely. Pics and more updates on the way soon I promise.
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Join Date: Mar 2007
01-22-2014, 5:50 AM
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cant wait...
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Join Date: Mar 2011
01-22-2014, 7:58 AM
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Awesome thread. I love these kinds of threads...
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Join Date: Jul 2008
01-22-2014, 12:07 PM
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No worries. Thanks for the update. I think we're all just excited to see what this thing will be.
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01-25-2014, 8:27 PM
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Ok here's an update. I wasn't sure about putting foam back in the boat but felt that it would increase rigidity and sound dampening. I settled on Tiger Foam. I used a 200 sq ft fast rising kit and it was very easy to use and I was pleased with the result.
All the wood (new & old) has been treated with CPES but to increase the layer of protection and give me a nice finish for the bilge I decided to bed liner the entire hull. The bed liner kit was from Liner Xtreem.
Because of future plans for a FAE system I left the exhaust protruding from the transom about an inch.
Once the bed liner is dry I will be installing the pylon mount I fabricated and the plywood floor.
I plan to coat the floor with CPES then bed liner without rubber followed by hydro turf or sea deck. No carpet on the floor!
Stay tuned for more progress and thank you for all the positive comments!
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01-25-2014, 8:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
01-26-2014, 6:45 AM
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Man this is a really cool thread but I would like to ask a honest question. Why? Is it just a hobby of yours to redo things? Maybe I am wrong but I don't see how this could really be cost effective. Don't get me wrong its really cool and the boat is turning out great. I would like to see a total on cost and man hours into this project. I don't have the skill to pull of a job like this so maybe I am a little jealous.
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01-26-2014, 8:16 AM
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Cost is the reason for the project. If you don't count the man hours I will have somewhere between $5-7k invested in total when done. That includes the $1200 I paid for the boat and trailer.
I really wanted a Sunsport, I was looking at $7-10k for a nice used ('85-'89) one that was mostly original and not ready to surf. I don't plan on "flipping" it and I hope it lasts my family a long time. My next one will be a V-drive with a surf system.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
01-26-2014, 11:05 AM
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Nice. I finished my mod work in truck bed liner as we'll. It's really nice.
Thanks for the update.
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02-02-2014, 7:11 AM
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Floor is down. 3 coats of bed liner, came out nice. It is too textured for the 3M stuff on the sea dek/ hydro so I will have to use adhesive paste.
Still trying to decide what to tackle next. Top cap paint, engine rebuild, swim platform etc.....
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Join Date: Aug 2013
02-02-2014, 11:25 AM
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This is insane
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Join Date: Jan 2010
02-02-2014, 11:59 AM
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So correct me if Im missing something here.
You left the old deteriorated grid in place and sistered in additional wood simply treated with CPES but didn't fully tab it into the hull or encapsulate it?
Did you provide any limbering between for those new box sections?
Is the deck just CPES over sheeting without being glassed over the whole top surface? Or fully tabbed to the hull sides?
You are certainly taking a different path my friend, good luck in your endeavors.
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02-02-2014, 6:57 PM
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baitkiller you are reading it correct. The old stringer system was not disturbed where the fillets meet the hull in order to maintain the structure. As for the deck, I left a 2" lip of the original glass floor attached to the sides of the hull. When I cut out the pieces I grooved the ply on the edges to slide in tongue and groove style. Limber holes won't work with the foam sprayed in.
For what I plan to have invested if it lasts me and my family at least 10 years I'm happy. I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure it will last twice that if kept covered and cared for.
Disclaimer: I am not a boat builder and many will disagree with the way I'm doing this restoration. With that said if I restored it back to the way Supra did I can guarantee it would be rotten again in twenty some years.
Take a piece of 2x4 coat it with CPES a few times then coat it with quality bed liner and set it outside uncovered.
Let me know when it is rotten
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlothian TX
02-02-2014, 9:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggsie
Floor is down. 3 coats of bed liner, came out nice. It is too textured for the 3M stuff on the sea dek/ hydro so I will have to use adhesive paste.
Still trying to decide what to tackle next. Top cap paint, engine rebuild, swim platform etc.....
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Finish the top cap, I want to see the hulls go back together. It's not like the top cap will inhibit your ability to drop the motor in, and the swim platform would probably be one of the last things I would tackle on this thing knowing how long that punch list probably is. Get that top cap back on ASAP so we can see it buttoned up, then get the motor in, and then we need to see upholstery. This thing is killing me, I want to see it done so bad. So many of these threads usually die out before making it this far, and the ones that do make it this far usually don't come through at the very end. I wish I was close by, I'd come give you a hand just to see this bad boy come to fruition.
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Join Date: Jun 2002
02-04-2014, 9:56 AM
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Did you shoot the bedliner yourself? Any special equipment needed?
I want to shoot all the exterior walking surfaces on my houseboat with a bedliner-like material.
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02-05-2014, 6:32 AM
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Bed liner was pretty simple. I used a product from TX called liner Xtreem. Kit came with gun. Mix contents in bucket, stir it up, pour into can screw on gun and spray. You can add more or less rubber to the mix to change the texture. You can also roll it on as well.
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Join Date: Jul 2012
02-12-2014, 7:11 PM
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You will deinitely need to brace it to the swim deck. You don't want the force to rip it off.
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02-12-2014, 7:28 PM
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Yep, it's in the works. Only problem is that I haven't built the new platform yet! Forgot the street 45 for the outlet...
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