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Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-23-2011, 12:55 PM Reply   
boats a 06 sanger 150 hrs. Engine seems to have a miss or slight stumble at full throttle. The boat still does top speed and rpms just kind of misses or stumbles while it is getting there, also sometimes maybe a slight backfire or pop but not always.

Changed fuel filter and cleaned distributer cap. Does any one no what the silver thing is above the fuel filter? water separator etc?

Also perfect pass servo seized which i fixed today so im assuming moisture not drying engine compartment may be causing me this troubles.

I have ordered new plugs, cap and rotor and also wires so im going to try that once they come in. Has anyone had a similar problem or could direct me on things to look at. This is my first inboard so this is new to me although im familar with car engines.

thanks this is driving me nuts would like to get my boat back up and running. Ps. shops around this area arent very helpful and would just start throwing parts at it. Would like to do as much as i can first.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       08-24-2011, 12:55 PM Reply   
compression check it when you do the spark pugs. This could help figure out this issue or a future one. Good luck.
Old     (blkchevy)      Join Date: Jun 2008       08-24-2011, 2:05 PM Reply   
I had the same problem replaced cap & rotor runs like new. moisture in cap also alot of corrosion.I have same year boat with same engine Good luck.
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-25-2011, 9:31 AM Reply   
Interesting. I've got an 04 v210 with black scorpion and noticed something similar. When the perfect pass is on it will hiccup or spit every so often. It's not regular but it happens more with the perfect pass engaged. I couldn't get it to happen w/out the perfect pass for a long time but over the weekend it happened under manual control but only when I would adjust the throttle. I think it happens more with the perfect pass because it adjusts the throttle a lot more. I got a tank of bad gas and blamed that, it should be about gone by now. I will check my cap and rotor as well. I got a new fuel filter but haven't installed it yet. I added some fuel treatment and it helped I think (but hard to tell).

I noticed that my rpm needle was bouncing a little bit but didn't do that before. Maybe it is cap & rotor. The exterior of the engine, cap, plug wires, etc., all look brand new, but it's from 04 and none of that stuff has been changed probably so thanks.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       08-25-2011, 9:43 AM Reply   
My local boat shop tells me te change my cap and rotor every 100hours. Maybe there is something to it other than making money!
Old     (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       08-25-2011, 12:58 PM Reply   
Dont just throw parts in it. Everything can be inspected or checked somehow to verify replacement is needed. Merc shop manual can be helpfull with trouble shooting. The flow charts help but a scan tool is a must have with any of this late model stuff to retrieve codes set by the ECM.
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-25-2011, 4:47 PM Reply   
I'm not just throwing parts at it but thanks. The comp is not throwing any codes. Took the distributor apart and had some corrosion and the seal was broke. Cleaned it up and sealed up may have helped for a bit but the problem is still there. May be bad fuel added 50l of new fuel and problem is still there but havent changed out the whole tank yet. Got the cap and rotor and new plugs will be installing tonight. Will inspect plug wires when changing but look alright and will replace next if problem is still there.
Boat has 170 hrs just checked today so not a whole lot.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       08-25-2011, 6:41 PM Reply   
When is it ever bad fuel, unless it has been sitting for a year?
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-25-2011, 7:38 PM Reply   
when you live in northern saskatchewan canada quite often actaully. My snowmobiles really notice this.
Old     (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       08-25-2011, 9:11 PM Reply   
Well I can almost promise you the wires and plugs are fine so yeah you are "throwing parts at it". The plugs are platinum and good for at least 500hrs and wires are usualy fine for many years. I too have a 06 V210 with 300 hrs and my plugs and wires are still good. In order to not throw parts at it you would check everything out first before you ever ordered a part, then just order what checks out bad.
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-25-2011, 10:25 PM Reply   
The boats 5 years old, so starting with a fuel filter, cap+rotor and plugs, if anything i think of these as good tune up parts on a 5 year old motor. Moisture kills electrical so actually there is a chance the plug wires could possibly be bad. I'm going to inspect them when changing these other parts and go from there.

What do you suggest?
Old     (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       08-25-2011, 11:05 PM Reply   
My suggestion is to spend your money on what you actually "need" to replace. What you're describing could be any number of things.
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-26-2011, 12:50 AM Reply   
Yes i agree but in my opinion plugs, cap+rotor and fuel filter are considered maintenance items.
Old     (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       08-26-2011, 7:38 AM Reply   
Conventional plugs yes but not Platinum. They are good for 100k in a car and you listed plug wires as well so there is about $200 right there you could spend on something you truly need.
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-26-2011, 4:16 PM Reply   
there actually $90 dollars and i said i was going to inspect them first, i had the shop order them just in case these first things didnt fix the problem. But anyways someone i talked to suggested a spark or flame arrestor can anyone give me more info on how to check/ clean this?
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-26-2011, 4:44 PM Reply   
edit. Found and cleaned the flame arrestor not one bit dirty and seems more of an air intake i thought this was would be on exhast somewhere.
Old     (SteveW)      Join Date: Jun 2011       08-27-2011, 10:35 AM Reply   
Don't rule out spark plugs. Mine ran last fall and this spring it could not get out of its own way. Drained fuel and put in fresh fuel. Changed fuel water separator. Checked TPS and IAC. Pulled plugs. Were clean. Checked gap and re installed. Changed cap and rotor. Still ran like crap. Had to take it in. Mechanic re-checked everything and then replaced plugs. It ran like a raped ape. He said he has seen a lot of these problems with this new fuel that has been introduced. he said plugs will appear in good shape, but they are gone. He has never done so many fuel system cleanings in the last 2 years. Did like 2 the 9 years prior.
Old     (Brendon444)      Join Date: Jul 2011       08-28-2011, 7:22 PM Reply   
changed plugs cap and rotor runs perfect now. thanks
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-29-2011, 6:23 AM Reply   
Cool. I pulled my distributor cap off and it looks pretty bad in there. Hopefully it will fix my problems, too.
Old     (typhoon)      Join Date: Jul 2001       09-06-2011, 9:25 PM Reply   
I have the 2001 black scorpion and it runs perfectly except it starts on the second turn after it is warm...? I changed the plugs, cap, and rotor and still does it. After we run it for a while then let it sit for about 15 minutes or more it turns over on the second and sometimes the 3rd crank. Does anyone have this issue?
Old     (rallyart)      Join Date: Nov 2006       09-06-2011, 9:39 PM Reply   
That's heat soaking in the fuel system. It's possible that the injectors are seeping some as the get hot. Injector cleaner might help but it could be the pressure regulator for the system or wear in the pump, or the injectors just aging.
Old     (typhoon)      Join Date: Jul 2001       09-07-2011, 7:19 AM Reply   
engine only has 230 hours on it.

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