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Old     (worththewake)      Join Date: Nov 2006       01-15-2009, 6:13 PM Reply   
So here's the deal....I'm adding four Pro 80's and the syn 2 to my boat this weekend. I will now have a total of three amps, one running my interiors, one running my subs, and obviously the syn 2 running the Pro 80's. I have two batteries, one stock (06 malibu v-ride) and the other is a bigger multi purpose battery. Do you guys think that I will have enough juice to run all three amps and still get quality sound? Will my alternator be able to handle all of this? What other suggestions do you guys have so that I'm not dead out on the water after playing some music while sitting in a cove! Thanks for the all the help.

Chris
Old     (polarbill)      Join Date: Jun 2003       01-15-2009, 7:10 PM Reply   
How are your batteries wired? With a perko switch or wired in parallel. If you don't mind spending the money go buy another multipurpose battery and wire it in parallel with the other multipurpose battery. While you are just sitting you should have you starting battery isolated some how from your stereo bank.

Also your alternator is not designed to charge dead batteries. It is meant to maintain your batteries. It would be a good idea to get some sort of charger to charge your batteries at night.
Old     (dohboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       01-15-2009, 7:46 PM Reply   
I have three amps pushing about 2700 watts with 2 batteries. I have a threesome with pro 80s, interiors and a sub. Similar to your setup. I have no problems. If you dont have a Perko get one for peace of mind when cove sitting. Your gonna love the Wet Sounds!
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       01-15-2009, 7:54 PM Reply   
I run 3 amps at about 2000 and change. I have a starting battery set apart from two blue tops using and iso/combiner and have never had a problem. That said I'm planning on adding a third battery to the house bank so that I don't have to worry about party covin' it up. I like the iso/combiner because you never have to worry about any switches.

Tim, kudos on the Syn amps they seem to be doing very well and hopefully you'll be busting out on those soon if you haven't already.
Old     (jonyb)      Join Date: Nov 2008       01-15-2009, 8:31 PM Reply   
Here's an isolator/relay that you can use to break the circuit between your stereo batteries and your starting battery:

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?delineate=735&CategoryID=12&Pa rentID=1

That only allows the stereo batteries to be connected to the alternator or starting battery to charge when the ignition key is on.... The only drawback is that I don't think you're alternator will handle 2 extra batteries in addition to the first battery too well. You may consider upgrading to a high-output alternator.


For charging when the boat is trailered or docked, you can use one of these per battery. You can hard-wire them in and just plug an extension cord into it.

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?delineate=735&CategoryID=12&Pa rentID=1


I always use the Stinger batteries in my installs and my own boat. They have a 2-year warranty so if you kill them in the first year, you can get them replaced for nothing. The SP1500D and SP1700 are ideal for boats. With 2 SP1500's in mine, I can play for 2 days in the party cove from start to finish and still have reserve time on the batteries.
Old     (jonyb)      Join Date: Nov 2008       01-15-2009, 8:33 PM Reply   
Edit: The second link is wrong.

This is the correct link: http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?delineate=737&CategoryID=12&Pa rentID=1

For some reason it wouldn't let me go back and edit the post.
Old     (brucemac)      Join Date: Dec 2005       01-15-2009, 8:43 PM Reply   
i'd add that if you do get some type of combiner/isolator make sure it is designed to work with different battery types unless you plan on changing those. same with any smart charger. some are not meant to charge sealed/agm type batteries and/or different types at the same time. i can't speak for stinger, but i've used the Yandina C100 combiner (worked great) and now have the Surepower 1314. i would think changing your alternator would be a last resort and more costly. i guess what i'm saying is no matter what you end up doing, just make sure it all is designed to work together. may require calling the manufacturer. i'd get something to isolate that starting battery for sure.
Old     (colombiansurfer)      Join Date: Sep 2008       01-16-2009, 5:42 AM Reply   
What does one of the HO alternators cost? Is there a difference between a car alternator and a marine alternator? I am running 2 batterys now and looking to add a third. I have a perko switch that I can use either battery 1 or 2. I use 1 for starting and 2 for stereo. If I get another battery, I will tie it in with the second battery.
Old     (jonyb)      Join Date: Nov 2008       01-16-2009, 3:14 PM Reply   
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you need to use only a marine application alternator. Gas fumes and non-marine equipment in the engine bay is a bad idea.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       01-16-2009, 3:31 PM Reply   
X2 on the Marine rated electrical components for the engine/bilge area! Things like starters, Alts, etc need flame arresters
Old     (worththewake)      Join Date: Nov 2006       01-16-2009, 5:06 PM Reply   
Thanks for all the help! I think what I've decided to do is add a perco switch on the batteries and run one battery for the audio and one for starting the boat. Hopefully I will get it all done tomorrow and I will post pics soon.
Old     (brucemac)      Join Date: Dec 2005       01-16-2009, 5:25 PM Reply   
i think you should reconsider a combiner

not much more than a perko or bluesea switch and then you don't have to worry about it

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