Articles
   
       
Pics/Video
       
Wake 101
   
       
       
Shop
Search
 
 
 
 
 
Home   Articles   Pics/Video   Gear   Wake 101   Events   Community   Forums   Classifieds   Contests   Shop   Search
WakeWorld Home
Email Password
Go Back   WakeWorld > Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles

Share 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-26-2017, 6:06 PM Reply   
Well I have three batteries and have be running this set up for over a year without issues. I charge after every outting with a pro marine charger. I always run my perko on 1+2 unless I'm floating and lisening to music.

While wake surfing for a decent amount of time and bumping music. I turned the boat off to switch riders and it wouldn't start. The radio was still play and perfect pass was on but it would even turn over. So I borrow a jump box and it jumped right off. I thaught I just killed all the batteries while going so slow surfing.

So next trip I have all the batteries charged and put the boat in the water. It's dead and won't even bump. But radio and perfect pass come on.(I wouldn't think these things would turn on if the batteries are completely flat and I didn't think about it at the time). This time I have the jumper box with and we jump it off and ride a quick set without turning the radio on or turning the boat off.

I get home and go over the batteries and they all show around 12.8 but one the the stereo batteries has a lose cable. So I think that's it and charge the batteries again.

Third time I unplug the charger at home put the batteries on 1+2 in the driveway and bump the key. It sounds like it's going to fire right up. So we pack up and drive an hour to the lake. We load the in-laws in the boat which take 15 mins for them to get all there stuff. They have a place right by a ramp so my wife is play music while we get them in the boat on the trailer still. I pull around to the ramp and the boat is dead. It won't even bump the engine or fire the starter. I hook up the jump box and nothing no matter what setting on the perko I use. It won't start or even try to turn over with a fully charged jump box. I'm pissed

I bring the boat home and don't mess with it for five days, I'm over it. I don't even plug it up to the charger. I go out tonight to mess with it. All batteries show around 12.8 music play and if I hit the key it bumps over like it going to fire right up.

It was in neutral and the kill switch wasn't messed with ever time.

Sorry for the long post but I'm lost.
Old     (WheelerWake)      Join Date: Mar 2013       07-26-2017, 6:23 PM Reply   
Try a remote starter bypass switch to see where the problem is.

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/c...&subtitle=test
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-26-2017, 7:28 PM Reply   
So this is basically touching both post on the starting cyliniod with a screwdriver. Right

Not sure where the starter cyliniod is on my 06 Supra 24v. But I will do this next time it doesn't start.
Old     (WheelerWake)      Join Date: Mar 2013       07-27-2017, 5:12 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonblarc7 View Post
So this is basically touching both post on the starting cyliniod with a screwdriver. Right

Not sure where the starter cyliniod is on my 06 Supra 24v. But I will do this next time it doesn't start.
Right.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 5:57 AM Reply   
I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing the starter cyliniod anyway. They are cheap and thats what I keep thinking was going on. Since my perfect pass was still working (every time I've had low voltage in the past the perfect pass was the first thing to at up).


And the stereo shouldn't still play if the batteries where flat. Plus they showed 12.8 volts five days later.

Also if it's a kill switch problem it should still turn over but not fire??? Right
Old     (TomH)      Join Date: Jan 2014       07-27-2017, 7:40 AM Reply   
Strange. Regarding the kill switch, you're correct, if it's out it will allow the engine to crank but not fire, as it interrupts the run signal/wire off the ignition switch (but not the crank).

It sounds like you have a problem on the crank signal somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter, so would focus your troubleshooting stepping through each connection. It could be as simple as a connection that needs to be tightened or cleaned, or could be the solenoid like you mentioned.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 8:14 AM Reply   
Sorry I'm a terrible speller and didn't know I was spelling solenoid wrong.

I'm going to take the ignition switch out of the dash tonight and see if it has a lose connection.
Old     (jmanolinsky)      Join Date: Dec 2005       07-27-2017, 9:47 AM Reply   
I had a somewhat similar problem. I replaced the solenoid and it fixed it. My solenoid is at the back of the motor (DD) behind a plastic cover. The cover had a red reset button on it. Good luck.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 11:04 AM Reply   
thanks Jman
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 3:56 PM Reply   
I had no luck finding the starter solenoid this afternoon before the rain hit. I did take a pick of the starter. It not on top of the starter is it?????
Attached Images
 
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 4:01 PM Reply   
I know it's usually located on the passenger side fender on most cars. And I even replaced one on my mom's F150 last week. But I can't find it anywhere on my boat. 06 Supra 24 v with an indmar assault.
Old     (retoxtony)      Join Date: Apr 2012       07-27-2017, 4:38 PM Reply   
The thing you took a picture of with the cables going in is the solenoid. I believe your thinking of the starter relay that is on the firewall of some vehicles.

Last edited by retoxtony; 07-27-2017 at 4:41 PM. Reason: g
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-27-2017, 5:25 PM Reply   
I think your right.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-28-2017, 5:43 AM Reply   
I'm trying to find a starter from work. And if I can find a part number I can order on from my father in-law at a discount. Is this the starter I need. This is what skimdim list for GM 5.7.
Attached Images
 
Old     (TTyler89)      Join Date: Jun 2015       07-28-2017, 8:05 PM Reply   
Just a heads up. Do not put any automotive starters/alternators/distributors/or carburetors in a marine application. They do not have the necessary spark suppressor hardware inside them to not ignite gas fumes in the bilge of your boat. This is one place you do not want to be a penny pencher on. Make sure that the parts you replace are marine certified.
Old     (TTyler89)      Join Date: Jun 2015       07-28-2017, 8:28 PM Reply   
By the way have you tried jiggling your shift/throttle handle while holding the key in the start position to see if it turns the motor over. It could be the starter relay or the starter itself. If you take a test light you can check the relay and starter while someone turns the key. That's what I would do before you start guessing and thowing parts at it.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-29-2017, 4:34 AM Reply   
Well my father in-law was friends with the parts guy at the local Mastercraft dealer. He looked up the starter for my boat and had one in stock. So I pick it up at his cost.

I will have my multimeter with me next time I'm out. The problem with testing some of these thing is. It's not an ever time I try to start the boat thing. Thursday night in the driveway with all my tools it wanted fire right up. Sunday afternoon at the lake and tool less it wouldn't do anything. The starter wouldn't even make a click.
Old     (retoxtony)      Join Date: Apr 2012       07-29-2017, 6:37 AM Reply   
If you havent checked the connections at the starter i would do that before putting in any parts. Your problem could all be caused by one crappy connection.
Old     (TTyler89)      Join Date: Jun 2015       07-29-2017, 6:37 AM Reply   
I would check up stream of the starter than. I would check to make sure you've got juice coming in from the key switch to the relay, then check voltage on both sides of the relay to make sure you're getting juice through the relay to the stater solenoid. It usually is either like a mercruiser relay or a standard Bosch relay up top in a plastic box. Or something else could be the 50a breaker going south. I've had that happen a couple times with a few different boats. If it's the 50a breaker when you turn the key on the fuel pump and everything electrical on the motor will not run. So if you turn the key on and you don't hear the fuel pump cycle, I would check this.

Last edited by TTyler89; 07-29-2017 at 6:41 AM.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-29-2017, 10:40 AM Reply   
Ok that makes since. Couldn't find the relay but I'll look again today.
Old     (Grizz)      Join Date: Jul 2017       07-29-2017, 3:14 PM Reply   
I had a wire back out slightly from my ECM connector on my last boat that created almost exact same behaviour.....
Old     (nailem)      Join Date: Apr 2011       07-30-2017, 6:21 AM Reply   
I would also check all your grounds, at the battery and on the motor. Take off and clean then tighten them up.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-30-2017, 11:29 AM Reply   
Not really sure what to do. I haven't put the new starter on yet because as of right now in the driveway the boat has no problems starting. I don't want to put the new starter on if I can return it. But I had three times it wouldn't start but now it act's fine.

I still can't find a starter relay but could this be the breaker you where talking about??
Attached Images
 
Old     (TTyler89)      Join Date: Jun 2015       07-30-2017, 10:08 PM Reply   
You are correct. That is the breaker. The relays look to be right beside it there to the left in the picture. It looks to be a standard Bosch relay. The next time it acts up take a test light and check both sides of that breaker first. One side should be hot all the time and the other should be too as long as the breaker isn't tripped. If you're not getting it through that with it reset, there lies your problem. If that checks out then you need to figure out which relay is for the starter solenoid and replace it or find out if there is a short in a wire or a terminal is badly corroded.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-31-2017, 6:10 AM Reply   
Thanks

I'm going to pull the boat the boat around the back roads of my house to see if anything will bounce around and maybe I can get to recreate the no start issue. As of now it wants to start like nothing is wrong.

It wouldn't be as big of a deal if it was just me and my wife. But with little man that's a lot of stuff to get ready just to have the boat not start on the ramp. Or even worse if it does it out on lake.
Old     (boardjnky4)      Join Date: Dec 2011       07-31-2017, 9:36 AM Reply   
Those are indeed the relays, right next to the breaker.

You also might have loose wire on the igntion switch or on a harness that comes out of the ignition switch. On my boat, the wiring from the ignition goes into a harness plug, and the harness had a pin that was on its last legs, and acting similarly. Sometimes it would make contact and work fine, other times it wouldn't. I took the plug apart, and when I touched one of the pins, it just fell out of the harness. I hard-wired the whole thing and the problem was solved.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       07-31-2017, 10:31 AM Reply   
I took the ignition switch panel off to look at the back of the switch and it look fine. But I did not check the harness it goes into.
Old     (chilidog)      Join Date: Dec 2007       09-25-2017, 9:23 PM Reply   
When you took a pic of the starter....Those connections have corrosion on them. I would suggest pulling them off, cleaning them all with a wire brush until shiny then reinstalling with vaseline, or the auto parts store electrical connector jelly, which is simply petroleum jelly. Any green or white "dust" is corrosion. I had the same problem with my old boat and my battery cables at the starter had corrosion inside the connector that required new ends. This was on a 3 year old boat in otherwise good condition. You may need to cut back that shrink wrap and cut off the factory end and put on a new end because the corrosion will get in under the shrink wrap and it will look fine until you take it all apart. Good thing is this is an under $20 fix. Sometimes my boat would start, sometimes it wouldn't. The stereo would always work and battery always had full charge, and jumping the battery would work sometimes and other times not. Both that little black wire from your ignition and the big red wire need corrosion addressed from what I can see. All the 'faces" of the connectors, washers etc need to be shiny like they are brand new. Then coat with the vaseline where they connect, although tightening will push some out, then wipe some on the post and nut etc. It serves as a barrier to the air/water. That dusty, white stuff is likely what's causing a weak connection, in my opinion.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       09-26-2017, 5:44 AM Reply   
Thanks for the replies and Scott I went back a scrub the connection just to make sure, then sprayed it with some battery terminal spray.

I got it figured out.

It happen one more time, but this time I was sitting in the drivers seat not my wife or a friend. And this time I wasn't flustered and in a panic trying to make sure I don't ruin somebodies day by the boat's not starting. A level head will always prevail!!

Turns out everything on the dash was dead. I was wrong about the perfect pass turning on. The radio played but that's separate from the ignition.

It was the stupidest thing every and the only reason I knew to even check this is. I found a thread on here with a guy having a starting problem with his supra.



All it was is my ignition switch was lose and spinning in the hole when I turned the key. After 11 year of cranking it over and over the nut on the back of the switch back off. I tightened it and haven't had a problem since.
Old     (chilidog)      Join Date: Dec 2007       09-26-2017, 10:56 AM Reply   
Glad it's fixed. My sanger used to do that as well, I'd have to reach under and grab the back of the cylinder to keep it from spinning and crank the key with the other hand
Old     (Reddog78)      Join Date: Mar 2017       09-29-2017, 11:42 AM Reply   
lol best thread all year!
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       09-29-2017, 11:48 AM Reply   
Yea I couldn't have been more wrong!!!!

Reply
Share 

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 1:51 AM.

Home   Articles   Pics/Video   Gear   Wake 101   Events   Community   Forums   Classifieds   Contests   Shop   Search
Wake World Home

 

© 2019 eWake, Inc.    
Advertise    |    Contact    |    Terms of Use    |    Privacy Policy    |    Report Abuse    |    Conduct    |    About Us