parker james, Definitely convert your 6-channel to all HIGHPASS on all the in-boat speakers. Check your amplifier supply cable and subwoofer speaker wire. MasterCraft factory could use an upgrade here. For the sub power, if you're staying within the JL Audio family, use a bridged G2250 or G1700 monoblock. Pass over the G1300 for this particular application. The G1700 would allow you to add a second and identical sub in the future with a minimum of 250 watts per sub. This isn't car stereo with an enclosed cabin plus you're running a free-air sub with less acoustic damping, so definitely turn-off the bass EQ. The narrow boost is costing you dynamic range and overall output. Since its a free-air sub, try crossing it over a little higher than the norm. This should yield much more perceived output and may even cause you to gain the sub down in order to have a smooth transition with the midbass drivers. If you're going to add a second sub, then try to use the identical sub loaded in a symmetrical manner. If possible, mount the new sub side-by-side with the old one or as close as possible in the same locker. This will produce a more uniform phase response for the two subs which will yield more output and better tonal construction. By the time you have 9 or 10 amplifier channels, you might want to consider a small line amplifier on the RCA output that will be split three ways into the JL 6-channel amplifier. David Earmark Marine
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