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Old     (boardman74)      Join Date: Jul 2012       03-10-2016, 10:43 AM Reply   
Just bought a 30 foot flybridge cruiser for weekend use this summer. Little bit older boat that is in mint condition but in serious need of stereo upgraded. Boat is a 2 level(cabin and sedan/ fly bridge)set up. Stereo stuff is original and needs to go. Sony Cassette stereo(yes I said Cassette) and just 4 crappy 5 1/4 speakers, 2 on the bridge and 2 in the cabin. Stereo is also located in the cabin with no control from the bridge.

Here is what I am thinking. Replace the stereo with something modern with a wired remote on the bridge. I want to replace the 2-5/14" inch speakers on the bridge with 4-6-1/2s. I will need to open the holes up and cut 2 addition holes. What are some good options for speakers that won't break the bank? I don't even plan to hook the 2 speakers in the cabin back up so just a 4 speaker set up. Also looking at adding some bass. Is one 12 in a decent box going to be enough? One issue I have in my head is the amp or amps. I am thinking I want to mount them below where the stereo is located versus up top. So to not have to run everything up top. So I'd just have to run the speaker wire.

Is there any decent 5-1/4 options or should I open the holes to take 6-1/2's? What is a decent sub to run without breaking the bank? Is one 12 going to be enough or should I plan for 2. I will likely take in the sub when not in use (for weather and security reasons) so weight up and down the fly bridge is a factor. I have a kicker ZXM dual line control so was thinking separate amps so I can control the sub(s) and in boats separately. Is that a good option? Is there a better option, then just sell the ZXM?

Any input is greatly appreciated.
Old     (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       03-10-2016, 11:54 AM Reply   
You've got to go with four 6.5" up top. You need surface area desperately.
You are going to be challenged to get good bass up on an elevated flybridge. Reason is that you aren't placing a sub at one extreme of a recessed tub like you are in a towboat. You don't have wrap around gunnels up top like in a towboat. No reinforcing planes, other than a deck with a small footprint, and xx feet above the water. The same amplifier power with the same woofer are not going to be as effective. Not close. So you really need to survey the flybridge looking for a spot that provides any element of acoustic leverage. Like tucked up under a dash console.
The DC panel in the salon won't carry enough amperage to supply a decent amplifier so you will have extended (both + & -) runs to the battery. You will also have long speaker wire runs. So you will be making a large investment in quality heavy gauge wire.
Having a subwoofer too close to a compass or sensitive instrumentation can be a problem. So a whole new set of challenges.

Last edited by DavidAnalog; 03-10-2016 at 11:56 AM.
Old     (dvsone79)      Join Date: Dec 2012       03-10-2016, 11:57 AM Reply   
Polk DB651s would be a good choice for the 6.5s. They're cheap, sound good, and marine certified: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/index...r8RhoCGK7w_wcB

A 12" sub enclosed and properly powered would be plenty sufficient, IMO. Polk has a good budget friendly sub for that, too. Also marine certified. Polk DB1240 or DB1240DVC (if you want dual voice coils).

Someone will be along to make better amp recommendations. You could go with one 6 channel amp for the speakers and a monoblock for the sub. Or get a 5 or 7 channel and put everything on the same amp. If it were me I'd pick up a Wet Sounds HT-4 amp that are on sale right now ($220 at crutchfield.com) 4 channel to run the cabin speakers then a monoblock for the sub. But there is probably a better way for amps. I'm not an expert. Just do my own boat audio enough to make some helpful recommendations.
Old     (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       03-10-2016, 12:08 PM Reply   
Josh,
Nothing against the Polks as they are a good sounding budget speaker. However....
Keep in mind that just because Polk designates a speaker as "marine certified" doesn't mean it's so. There is no marine certification entity other than Polk in this case. Unlike a true marinized speaker, like the Polk UM series for example, the Polk DB651 has a metal basket, cotton spider, unprotected crossover elements, unprotected tinsel leads, and an open voice coil gap, just for starters. This is likely a fresh water application so not as critical. But on the flipside, it's often harder to protect speakers on an elevated flybridge. If this was in salt water you would have rust stains trailing off those Polk speakers within a couple of months.
Old     (dvsone79)      Join Date: Dec 2012       03-10-2016, 12:27 PM Reply   
If you wanted to stick with 1 amp you could go for the MB Quartz NA710.5. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-NA710.5.html

You'd want the dual voice coil Polk sub wired in parallel to put a 2 ohm load on the sub channel for more power. Then 2 of the 4 remaining channels will have 2 pairs of speakers wired in parallel. Again dropping the resistance on those two channels to 2 ohm so you'd need to adjust the gains on those channels to compensate for the drop in resistance.

Don't expect to be blown away but that would still be a decent sound setup. Keeping in mind the limitations and challenges David just mentioned.
Old     (dvsone79)      Join Date: Dec 2012       03-10-2016, 12:32 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidAnalog View Post
Josh,
Nothing against the Polks as they are a good sounding budget speaker. However....
Keep in mind that just because Polk designates a speaker as "marine certified" doesn't mean it's so. There is no marine certification entity other than Polk in this case. Unlike a true marinized speaker, like the Polk UM series for example, the Polk DB651 has a metal basket, cotton spider, unprotected crossover elements, unprotected tinsel leads, and an open voice coil gap, just for starters. This is likely a fresh water application so not as critical. But on the flipside, it's often harder to protect speakers on an elevated flybridge. If this was in salt water you would have rust stains trailing off those Polk speakers within a couple of months.
Good to know. I don't have personal experience with the DB651 speakers, but I have had the DB1240DVC in my boat for the last 3 seasons with no issues. I have 4 Kicker KM6LW in my cabin. I *think* those are true marinized speakers. Even though they're only 6", I think they sound great. I'd recommend those if they were still being made.
Old     (boardman74)      Join Date: Jul 2012       03-10-2016, 2:42 PM Reply   
The flybridge is surrounded on 3 1/2 sides with fiberglass sides about the height of the average wake boat. The is about a 4 foot open rail on the back. The sub would be firing forward from around that area. The bridge is around 11x12' so smaller than a wake boat.

The boat is fresh water use and will be dry 99% of the time. The bridge won't like have wet bodies, is to high for spray, and will be fully enclosed when not in use. So minus a stray rain shower nothing up there is likely to get wet. The stereo and amps will be well inside the cabin and will never see moisture.
Old     (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       03-10-2016, 3:14 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by boardman74 View Post
The flybridge is surrounded on 3 1/2 sides with fiberglass sides about the height of the average wake boat. The is about a 4 foot open rail on the back. The sub would be firing forward from around that area. The bridge is around 11x12' so smaller than a wake boat.

The boat is fresh water use and will be dry 99% of the time. The bridge won't like have wet bodies, is to high for spray, and will be fully enclosed when not in use. So minus a stray rain shower nothing up there is likely to get wet. The stereo and amps will be well inside the cabin and will never see moisture.
Okay, so the subwoofer location is part good and part bad. It's nice that you have some confinement on the bridge via the front console and side gunnels. It's nice that the output will be oriented towards the listeners. It's bad that it backs up against an open area. Look at it like what you have experienced with a home subwoofer. The farther it is moved towards the center of the room, the less compression. The closer it is moved towards the back wall behind it, the more compression.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-10-2016, 4:09 PM Reply   
I would look to do a more permanent sub install rather then one that you need to carry to an from the boat each trip. One for the deck area for sure and a 2nd in salon if you want bass down there as well.

Yes, upgrade to a 6.5" if you have room.

If the amp driving the sub has its own means of sub level, then paired with the kicker ZXM-RLC, you may be able to do 3 zone: deck, salon and sub.
Old     (sandm01)      Join Date: May 2010       03-11-2016, 4:01 PM Reply   
just do what we saw at the local party cove a few years ago from a big cruiser. guy had 2 old school home speakers with 15" subs, mids and tweets. he just pulled them out onto the rear bench and blasted away

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