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Old     (thedrew)      Join Date: Aug 2016       08-30-2016, 4:36 PM Reply   
Hello there everyone, first time poster here. Bought my 93 centurion a little over a year ago and just now getting the time to get to work on it and make it shine. It was taken very good care of, however the gel coat when I bought it was somewhat chalky/oxidized. Running it last season and this season has also gotten it pretty grimey looking. It seems on/off is going to be the goto for that. Unless anyone has any other recommendations. I want to get you guys opinion, I would like to do this work myself. If it is to far gone, then maybe I will just have a pro do it. The interior vinyl could also use some touch up. No matter what product I use it seems I can't get it completely cleaned up. Suggestions?

Also, a separate mechanical question, I have attributed the starting issues to it just being old and carbureted. Once it's running for awhile it will start up just fine. Initial starts are very rough. It takes about five minutes to get it up and going and with several starts. How terrible is the starter spray for the engine? I have to use it nearly every time. Yet another issue... recently the belt will squeal terribly on the initial start. After about ten seconds it immediately disappears and doesn't do it again until the boat is not running for awhile. Belt looks brand new. Ideas?

Sorry for the amount of questions, just wanted to get it all in one post. I will post pictures, and if anyone needs any others just ask. Thanks guys!
Attached Images
  
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       09-06-2016, 6:38 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrew View Post
Hello there everyone, first time poster here. Bought my 93 centurion a little over a year ago and just now getting the time to get to work on it and make it shine. It was taken very good care of, however the gel coat when I bought it was somewhat chalky/oxidized. Running it last season and this season has also gotten it pretty grimey looking. It seems on/off is going to be the goto for that. Unless anyone has any other recommendations. I want to get you guys opinion, I would like to do this work myself. If it is to far gone, then maybe I will just have a pro do it. The interior vinyl could also use some touch up. No matter what product I use it seems I can't get it completely cleaned up. Suggestions?

Also, a separate mechanical question, I have attributed the starting issues to it just being old and carbureted. Once it's running for awhile it will start up just fine. Initial starts are very rough. It takes about five minutes to get it up and going and with several starts. How terrible is the starter spray for the engine? I have to use it nearly every time. Yet another issue... recently the belt will squeal terribly on the initial start. After about ten seconds it immediately disappears and doesn't do it again until the boat is not running for awhile. Belt looks brand new. Ideas?

Sorry for the amount of questions, just wanted to get it all in one post. I will post pictures, and if anyone needs any others just ask. Thanks guys!

Sounds like the boat needs a good tune up and maybe some new belts or possibly just a belt adjustment to stop the squealing . I think I'd start with a full tune up including checking the timing, oil change and fuel filter/water/separator replacement and see what that does for your starting issues . Then if its still hard starting I would consider either having the carb rebuilt or just replace it with a new one .
As for the Gel coat I'm no expert but I do know some sweat and elbow grease will go a long way . Sometimes you actually need to put the sand paper to it to knock down the oxidation . I think there is a good write up here on how to do it . If not I'm sure there is tons of youtube videos on restoring the gel coat . Don't go too crazy because you cant put back the material you remove .
Old     (tweeder)      Join Date: Aug 2015       09-06-2016, 7:02 AM Reply   
Had a boat that was similar to that. On/Off cleaner is some nasty stuff and will clean the bottom with no problem. I would wet sand and use https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke5kfYz9Ybw. It will look brand new.

Here is some pictures of what On/Off did to my hull. Didn't do any wet sanding and you can see how much better it looked using the cutting compound and wax. I wish I would have done the sanding though. http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...t=54549&page=2
Old     (Shakarocks)      Join Date: Mar 2013       09-12-2016, 5:39 PM Reply   
Get the 3M marine rubbing compound and rub by hand and then follow up with Finesse-it II and wax. Most likely that will cure your oxidation problem. If the rubbing compound isn't enough just switch to a buffer and try with that.
Old     (flatbroke)      Join Date: Jun 2013       09-12-2016, 10:32 PM Reply   
Id be a little careful with the ether. Ive seen that stuff blow head gaskets clean out from between a head and a block. I too would go with a complete tuneup along with a changing of all fluids and filters including the water separator. More than likely, the boat has sat for long periods with old gas in the carb. Combine that with a higher possibility of having water in the fuel and the inside of the carb could be really nasty. A good disassembly and thorough cleaning may work. If not, Id look for a good replacement Holley marine carb.
As far as gelcoat, it scares the crap outta me so I don't do anything but wax it a lot. Sorry for no help there.
Looks like a fun resto project!
Old     (thedrew)      Join Date: Aug 2016       09-16-2016, 5:25 AM Reply   
Thanks for all the feedback guys! I already had a full tune up done before the season started. Oil change, oil filter change, fuel filter change, timing adjusted/checked, etc. They did say the fuel filter was awful, there was a little bit of water as well. I believe I will go ahead and just replace the carb. I took a buffer to the hull with some cutting compound after I tried the 3M rubbing compound. Worked great after a couple passes on the front 1/3 of the boat. Past that the cutting compound wasn't making difference after 4 applications. So I am guessing I will just have to go with the wet sanding? How would I accomplish that over raised graphics(the Ski Centurion graphic) that's in the middle of the boat? That on/off worked wonders, took every last bit of grime of with no effort. That belt issue is still plaguing me, not to sure on how to adjust it.
Old     (tweeder)      Join Date: Aug 2015       09-16-2016, 7:32 AM Reply   
Thats great to hear things are coming along. Honestly, if you want to restore the gelcoat right the graphics have to come off. Take a nice centered high res picture and measurements of them before they come off. If you can't find reasonably priced replacements, you should be able to get them reprinted with the picture and measurements.

And yes, if you are not getting the desired results move to wet sanding.
Old     (azeus17)      Join Date: Feb 2010       09-16-2016, 9:01 AM Reply   
Give us a shot of your engine, especially the belt area and we can probably help you determine how to tighten them. Do they feel loose?

Also, do you know if the choke is working on the carb? It is probably an electric choke that is normally closed and slowly opens after you turn the key on. The symptoms you describe sound like not having the choke on with a cold start. If it runs well warm, I would avoid messing with the carb adjustments too much...you can make things worse if you are not experienced.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tyler       09-16-2016, 9:18 AM Reply   
usually use your alt to adjust belt tension. or the water pump depending on which belt is loose. yea post a pic
Old     (Blamey)      Join Date: Apr 2016       09-16-2016, 11:05 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakarocks View Post
Get the 3M marine rubbing compound and rub by hand and then follow up with Finesse-it II and wax. Most likely that will cure your oxidation problem. If the rubbing compound isn't enough just switch to a buffer and try with that.
Why 3m rubbing compound by hand? I'd use a buffer on the sides with a wool pad. Keep the spped slow if you are worried about damaging the finish but it should still be plenty fater than going by hand.

Follow up with a foam pad and the Finesse-it II and it should shine.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       09-16-2016, 1:53 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by blamey View Post
why 3m rubbing compound by hand? I'd use a buffer on the sides with a wool pad. Keep the spped slow if you are worried about damaging the finish but it should still be plenty fater than going by hand.

Follow up with a foam pad and the finesse-it ii and it should shine.
this
Old     (flatbroke)      Join Date: Jun 2013       09-16-2016, 10:05 PM Reply   
One other thing that may work is running fuel injector cleaner (a tank or two) through the fuel system. Cataclean, Lucas and a number of different mfgs make fuel system cleaners. Youd be surprised at what they are able to clean out. FWIW though, by the time you run a few bottles of the stuff that will really clean anything, you'll be close to 100$ into it. May want to factor that into your decision on a new carb.
Old     (Shakarocks)      Join Date: Mar 2013       09-19-2016, 7:44 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blamey View Post
Why 3m rubbing compound by hand? I'd use a buffer on the sides with a wool pad. Keep the spped slow if you are worried about damaging the finish but it should still be plenty fater than going by hand.

Follow up with a foam pad and the Finesse-it II and it should shine.
Some folks aren't very good with a buffer and will burn through the gel coat. I've discovered that most of the time rubbing by hand fixes the problem and minimizes the risk.

Another factor is the age of the boat. If you acquire a used boat you don't know how many times the finish has been worked over with abrasives. If it's been worked over a lot then the risk of burn through increases dramatically.
Old     (thedrew)      Join Date: Aug 2016       09-23-2016, 8:44 AM Reply   
Sorry for the delayed response. It's been quite crazy here! I am thinking about just rebuilding the carb. I have a neighbor who knows them well and offered to do it at his shop for about 500. Ive already ran cleaner through it in several tanks of gas but haven't seen any improvement. As for the choke working, I am not sure. Fairly new to this. I will take shots of the engine area today and post them though. The belts don't feel loose at all which is strange. I'll give that buffer with a woolpad and rubbing compound a shot though. If no result, I will unfortunately get into wet standing. Thanks for all the responses!
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       09-23-2016, 11:38 AM Reply   
That's really expensive for a carb that might not work too well after the rebuild . You can get a brand new marine carb from summit racing for a little less then 500.00 .
BTW I'm not telling you to run a non marine carb but I've seen it done many times with no issues for even cheaper .
Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NJ       09-25-2016, 9:30 AM Reply   
Rebuild kit for a Holley is $50-$60. You can get a new marine 4150 double pumper for not much more than $500, and a marine 4160 for under $500.

For the gel, wetsand if necessary then go to 3m heavy duty rubbing compound followed by Finesse It polishing compound and finish with a good paste wax. Check stringer condition and see if it needs them now or can go a while longer.
Old     (onthecreek)      Join Date: Apr 2013       09-25-2016, 1:52 PM Reply   
You could also buy a reman'd carb for about $300 or send yours in to be rebuilt for around $200. This is just one place, there are others: www.nationalcarburetors.com.

$500 to rebuild is criminal. Keep your eye on that neighbor at all times.

You probably have a distributor which means you should replace the cap, points & rotor (if it's not electronic ignition), spark plugs and probably plug wires. Definitely check the choke. Look on youtube, lots of info there but understand that some parts for a boat must be marine certified....carb, distributor, starter...anything that could ignite gas fumes.

Don't bother compounding that gel by hand. At best, it'll look good for about a week and then get hazy again. If there isn't enough gel left when you use a buffer then it's a candidate for paint anyway.

The graphics are probably too far gone to be brought back. They'll prevent you from doing a good wet sanding anyway. I'd take them off. You'll see what the gel really look like underneath, some motivation. Great time of year for a wet sanding.
Old     (thedrew)      Join Date: Aug 2016       09-25-2016, 3:12 PM Reply   
Alright awesome! Well the 500 would be everything, including all the labor which is why I'm guessing it may have been so high? Not sure. Everything else looked good, when I took it in for the tune-up. At least that's what the mechanics said. They replaced all my hoses as well. I'll definitely be putting all this info to use. It's much appreciated! I'm posting the shots of the engine as well as a comparison picture from where I already buffed. If you need any additional shots let me know!
Attached Images
     
Old     (azeus17)      Join Date: Feb 2010       09-27-2016, 1:17 PM Reply   
You will tighten your belt by loosening the bolt/nut under the alternator. That curved bracket should have a slot cut in it that the alternator can move on. Loosen the nut, use a lever to apply some pressure to the alternator to tighten up the belt and then tighten the nut back down.

I appears that the choke is working at least somewhat. That picture of the top of your carb shows the choke closed. After you turn the ignition on, without starting the boat, it should slowly open up. It must be doing so or it would run like crap after its warm, which you said it's running great after warm, so I doubt that is your problem now.

When you are attempting to start cold, are you pushing the neutral button and giving it some gas? My old carbed 351W liked to have a few pumps of the throttle while turning the key to wake her up. Not too much, though, or you will flood it.

As for the gel, I agree with whoever said get a buffer. Doing that by hand will take forever and will look half as good. It is pretty darn hard to burn gel, so you can get pretty aggressive with it.

Last edited by azeus17; 09-27-2016 at 1:20 PM.
Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NJ       09-27-2016, 3:12 PM Reply   
I wouldn't charge more than $100 labor to a friend/neighbor/associate to rebuild a Holley. $450 is insane. Never done a 4010, but now seeing you ahve a 401 I'd sooner get a 4160 or 4150. Regardless...

Holley 4010 rebuild kit, $63

750 CFM 4160 vacuum secondary, $487 A little big for a stock 351w but will be fine being a vac secondary, worth it if staying on a tight budget to get center hung externally adjustable bowls

600 CFM 4150 double pumper, $555 A great match for a low output 351w, for crisp throttle response and ease of tuning


As far as that gel, it looks bad but it'll come up fine unless Centurion went real cheap and thin on it. keep it waxed and don't let it sit in direct sun all year when not in use and worst case it'll only need a light polish every few years. Paint is terrible, please don't paint a classic inboard with gel that can be restored. It'll scratch and wear through easy and look like crap in short order.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       09-29-2016, 7:19 AM Reply   
This guy is on point and have to agree with him . ^^
I did notice there sure seems like a ton of moisture under there you might want to get the boat dried all the way out and maybe even store it with the engine cover propped up so come air can circulate in there.

Is there always that much moisture in the boat I wonder how much water accumulates on the air filter/spark arrestor and in the throat of the carb and intake . Might be bad enough that the its making the engine run crappy until its all dried out and nothing but fresh fuel is being burnt . just a thought

Last edited by CALIV210; 09-29-2016 at 7:24 AM.

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