Another help me build my system thread...

Well, I've come to realize I want to make the most of what I have and upgrade a few things. So here we go into another thread about what to buy. I'm prettty set on what components I want to buy, but have a few options/questions about the speakers and amp choices. I made these drawings to give a better visual repesentation of what I'm doing, but I left out the HU and EQ since they will not be changing. Currently I have an '03 SANTE with stock Clarion speakers and HU, Kicker KX700.5 amp, 2 - Kicker Comp VR's (2 ohm load), and Kicker KMT6 tower speakers (currently running parallel to the Clarions in the bow at about 3 ohms).

I'm planning on replacing the stock speakers with Polk's (unsure on which one's) and the amp with two separate Kicker amps to better power the boat/tower speakers and subs. The parts I'm looking at are as follows:

1 - Kicker ZX500.1 (power the subs)
1 - Kicker ZX850.4 (power the boat/tower speakers)
2 - pair of Polk MMC650 or Polk MM651 (I'm disabling the bow speakers)

Below are spec sheets on each piece of equiptment I'm planning to buy...

Kicker ZX500.1 http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/2008/2008%20ZX%20400%20500%20750-1%20f01%20web.pdf

Kicker ZX850.4 http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/2008/2008%20ZX%20350%20650%20850-4%20d01%20web.pdf

Polk MMC650 http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/speakers/6-1-2/mmc650/

Polk MM651 http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/speakers/6-1-2/mm651/


Now for the questions...

1, The ZX500.1 operates at 500x1 @ 2ohms (RMS) and the Comp VR's I'm running operate at 400 (RMS). Will this be properly powered or will they need more/less power? I can always turn the gain down if needed, but I don't want to underpower anything.

2. The Polk MMC650's will be overpowered by a good bit by the ZX850.4 (215x4 @ 2ohms), but like I said I can always turn down the gain. I was looking at the Polk MM651's which can handle more watts but run at 2.7 ohms which will give me 1.35 ohms once paralleled together to the amp. Is this low enough to cause issues with the amp? Part of the reason I want to run the MM651's is I like the look of the grills better. (I know... ), but I guess I could just paint the grills on the MMC650's black if those are the speakers I need to stay with.

3. I also like the fact the MM651's don't have an external cross-over I have to mount somewhere. If I do need to go with the MMC650's, where can I mount the cross-over, behind the panels close the to speakers?

4. I'm planning on keeping the 4 gauge cable I have currently to power the ZX850.4 and just change out the fuse for a bigger one. 120 amps (minimum fuse rating) is getting close to the threshold of what I've read 4 gauge wire will hold. Should I swap to 0 or 2 gauge wire to be safe?

5. As you can tell from the diagrams I drew, I'm planning on running each amp off separate batteries, mainly because I want to mount the ZX500.1 behind the driver's side thotttle lever panel close to the sub enclosure. Also, I don't think I will have enough room once I mount the ZX850.4 in the stock location under the passenger seat. (darn thing is big!) This will also save me from running another long RCA from the driver's seat (where EQ is located) back to the amp. I already have to run 2 for the ZX850.4. Do you see any problems with this?

6. I'm thinking of running the remote turn-ons for the EQ and both amps thru a relay to protect the HU's circuit. Does this sound like a good idea or just a waste of time?

I think that is all I can think of for now. Any input is appreciated... I just want this to be the last time I upgrade and want to get it right this time. Like I said, these are the components I want to use for several reasons, so unless you have really good reasons for why I should change something (price, quality, etc...), don't worry about it... It will just confuse me even more. Thanks...

Option 1 with MMC650's...


Option 2 with MM651's...

The 850.4 is not stable below 2 ohms so the 651 is out if you want to run them parallel. It also requires min. 2 gauge for power and ground. How are you planning on charging the batteries? If you're planning on charging them with an ACR (or even a manual 1-2 switch), I believe you'd need to have them grounded together.

You may not need that much juice from the 850.4 for the components and the KMT6. Take a look at the ZX650.4, you should be able to run all from that, it's another option if space is an issue.

Go with the top system and make these changes. 650.4 is plenty. Scrub the 500.1 and two comp vrs, and get a 1000.1 with an L7 solobaric.

Yeah, I was pretty sure it wouldn't run at lower than 2 ohms. I thought maybe the 850.4 could run a 4 gauge cable minimum, but wasn't sure since the manual for it is incorrecttly written. (shows 8 gauge minimum)

The batteries are tied together... Sorry didn't draw that. They are just factory wired.

I was looking at the 650.4 since it's better suited for my needs, but it and the 850.4 are nearly the same price on eBay, so I figured I might as well get it. It's only 3" shorter than the 850.4 so it won't make much of a difference size wise.

VLX Envy, I already have the Comp VR's in the boat. They won't change, just the amp they are powered from.

Which CVR10's do you have, the DVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm?

1 cvr10 on the 700.5 or the 500.1 will sound better then 2. Keep the 700.1 and drop 1 of the cvr's, or, consider a 2 chnl amp for the subs.

The kx700.5 puts out 420W on the class D sub chanl and the cvr10 (I always use the dvc 2ohm) really thumps, in a box, it's even better. On the other side, the 700.5 puts out about 75w RMS, thats not bad for most 6.5's.

I would leave this amp in place, move the 2 bow speakers to the headunit and the 4 new 6.5 to their own chnl, and remove 1 of those subs.

For the tower, get the zx450.2 for the KTM6's

"VLX Envy, I already have the Comp VR's in the boat. They won't change, just the amp they are powered from."

Sorry, you posted while I was composing.....in this case, you will need the zx850.2

TigeMike, my Comps are the DVC 2ohm. Why do you say I need the 850.2? Isn't that too much power for those subs? I would end up running 850 watts per sub at 4 ohms. That not only overdrives them at RMS but Peak as well.

I know the 700.5 is sized well for the 6.5's , but not the KMT6's. That's why I wanted to upgrade the amp pushing them which means the boat speakers will get more power to. I don't want to run more than 2 amps and thought my setups would be the best alternative.

What your saying about wiring the 6.5's to the 700.5 and getting a 450.2 for the KMT6's I can understand, just not the 850.2 on the subs.

With each sub wire at 2ohm, then the 2 series together will give you a 4ohm load. If wired bridged, you will net 425w per sub.

I think you are best to get some 4ohm 6.5's, this will make choosing an amp easier as when wired parallel, it will be a 2ohm load which most amps are stable to. When wiring 2 speakers to one chnl, remember that they will divide the amp's output at that given ohm load.

Okay, that's what I've been trying to find out and never could. So basically right now I'm running 20 watts to each sub instead of 420.

In that case can I just swap my amps and run an 850.4 for the boat/tower speakers and an 850.2 for the for the subs?