What do I need to check before buying ?

Hello,

I'm interested in buying a MC prostar 190 from 1991 at a good price.

I'd like to have some advice about what I should check on the boat before buying it.
Are there some important things that I should check to avoid any problems or scams.

Also is it possible to verify the number of hours of the boat ?

thank you

Pierre

Compression.

you will only be able to verify the actual hours on the engine if the boat is fuel injected, which 91 was not.

If you're new to boats, I'd find a shop that can give it a once-over before you buy. Nothing specific to worry about on those boats, but obviously you wanna get the engine checked out. If I were selling my boat, I definitely wouldn't allow someone to do a compression check on it sitting in my driveway. A decent shop can look it over and make sure everything is there and in good condition. Compression shouldn't be a big deal but you'll have to ask for it. make sure you get the numbers too. Shouldn't cost much to get it looked at. Money well spent IMO.

Have a leak down test performed...

If it were I would just hire a surveyor. Check the hull for cracks and soft spots. Check the floor too.

That boat will have fiberglass stringers and floor so that's one less thing to worry about. I don't know everything about inboards but they're pretty simple mechanically so here are a few things to check...

If you have a look at it and are seriously into it, see if the guy will meet you at a ramp for a quick test on the water. You should be able to tell from hearing it run and feeling it drive to get a good idea if the engine and trans are in good condition.

With the boat idling in gear have a look at the driveshaft and the seal. Any wobble indicated alignment or bent shaft. See if the packing is leaking a lot of water. A few drips isn't a big deal and can probably b e adjusted out. Either way not a huge deal to repack it but it's a negotiating point.

Check that the strut isn't bent. Grab the prop shaft from underneath it and try to wiggle/rock ir around in the cutlass bearing. If it moves or you feel free play it needs to be replaced. Do the same with the rudder. Any play in it should be minimal, more than that could indicate worn bushing or leaky rudder seal.

If your not familiar with boats, get a mechanic to give it the once over. It'll be money well spent. And he may very well give you suggestions to use to dicker on the price, saving you money in the end.

Don't you want a little drip in shaft packing? Did they have driples all the way back then?

Depends on the type of packing. Skidim sells a "virtually dripless" GFO packing for almost any inboard.