Putting a Tower on my Boat

(joshugan) · (joshugan) **Join Date: Apr 2005** 10-14-2009, 9:30 AM

I'm about to put a Flight Control Tower II on my SN2001.

Does anyone have advice about how to drill the holes? I'm a bit nervous.

Any other tips would be great.

Thanks!

(dhcomp) · (dhcomp) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 10-14-2009, 10:17 AM

Put blue masking tape over the area. Mark HOles. Double check locations. Run drill in reverse slowly to score through gel coat. Once into fiberglass, drill smooth and slow in forward.

Drink a beer to take the anxiety off.

(wakeboardin) · (wakeboardin) **Join Date: Apr 2001** 10-14-2009, 10:41 AM

You may want to read diytower.com if I remember right it had step by step info on how to mount and drill for it.

(acurtis_ttu) · (acurtis_ttu) **Join Date: May 2004** 10-14-2009, 11:01 AM

don't rush it...take your time. Have at least one other person with you to help. Preferably someone that is mechanically inclined

(bill_airjunky)

Look for wires & speedo tubes underneath the gunnels. Not sure about CC, but other boat manufacturers put that all in a PVC tube that may need to be cut &/or moved. I used a Dremel cutter/grinder.

(johnny_gatsby)

I actually attached the arms of the tower on the boat right where I wanted and got a good look at them, with velcro adhesive and marked with a pen, before I drilled so I would not make any mistakes with measuring--I would also make sure the backing is good-may have to enhance the backing that comes with the tower--
jg

(ship_of_fools) · (ship_of_fools) **Join Date: Sep 2007** 10-14-2009, 5:55 PM

Before drilling double think everything through and make sure your location is correct. I had to move my tower location by about 1/2" after a last minute check showed that I couldn't open and close my windshield with the tower up.

As already mentioned, check for anything underneath and mark location with tape.

Drill holes in reverse and start small and gradually make holes bigger. Chamfer out hole each time before drilling next larger hole to reduce chance of bit catching the edge. I would drill in reverse all the way through the fiberglass. Finish with a nice big chamfer. You can make chamfer by using a big drill bit - turning by hand or better yet buy a counter bore tool.

Consider reinforcing underneath the fiberglass with treated plywood glued with 3M 5200 adhesive. If you have a curved surface put a bunch of adhesive between the wood and fiberglass then tighten the bolts just good enough to start squishing the adhesive. Let it dry like this for a couple of days. Then go back and tighten it. The glue will help "bridge" the curved surface and provide a good solid mounting surface for the wood.

Don't rush.

I second the beer idea - nice touch.

(joshugan) · (joshugan) **Join Date: Apr 2005** 10-14-2009, 9:56 PM

Thanks for the great tips!

Here's a picture taken on the freeway during the drive back from the lake.

The tower is rock solid! It has no sway and literally feels like part of the boat. I was so stoked on it after we got back that I've been admiring it for the last 30 minutes.

Upload

(Message edited by joshugan on October 14, 2009)

(rocketman) · (rocketman) **Join Date: Feb 2003** 10-14-2009, 11:58 PM

I would have thought that since the 2001 is narrower than the SAN210, it would not have fit.

(joshugan) · (joshugan) **Join Date: Apr 2005** 10-15-2009, 8:46 AM

My friends cut a triangular notch out of the front legs so we could bend them in. They also cut all the feet off and repositioned them to match up with boat. I then had a professional welder weld everything into place.

I'll try to get some better pictures