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Old     (TitanBC)      Join Date: Feb 2015       03-14-2015, 11:47 PM Reply   
Hi guys,

Been lurking on this forum for the past while and jumped on an Opportunity to buy a 96 v210 from auction that had been submerged. I say opportunity because I feel like I got a pretty good price.

I have flushed out all the fluids. And was fortunate enough to have found the entire engine filled with diesel when I first picked it up. So the engine itself seems to be in pretty good shape.

What I am having trouble with is keeping the engine running. I have to pump the throttle several times moving fluid into the carb go to start and the engine will catch right away. However as soon as it uses up the fuel from that initial pump it dies. It seems as it is not getting any fuel once it's running I try to feather the throttle leave it in neutral makes no difference. I have replaced the fuel pump, and all new spark plugs. I tried to spray some quick start down the carb to try and keep the engine running but it did nothing almost like there was no vacuum to pull it down?

My thoughts are to pull apart the carb and use an overhaul kit, just a little reluctant as i have no carb experience. Any other thoughts or suggestions I would love to hear.

Next question is I have two unknown wires by the v drive I'm not sure where they go. They are in a loomed harness that comes out with a total of 6 wires( 1 black and red running to fuel tank)(1brown and black going to bilge pump) and then a black and white which i can't find where they would go.
Again help or suggestions would be appreciated. I have attached a picture of said wires...

Thanks in advance!
Attached Images
Old     (boardman74)      Join Date: Jul 2012       03-15-2015, 6:37 AM Reply   
Submerged boats can be and are almost always a nightmare. You will likely chase demons in that boat the rest of the time you own it. They are also very hard to resell.

Sounds like a carb rebuild could be in order. If your not comfortable with it I suggest getting it to a good marine mechanic. Your going to be time and money ahead in the long run. Considering what has happened to that boat if you don't have A LOT of mechanical and boat knowledge you are going to waste many days chasing your tail. As to your wires. My first guess based on the location would be V drive temperature or neutral safety switch.
Old     (TitanBC)      Join Date: Feb 2015       03-15-2015, 7:02 AM Reply   
Thanks for the reply, I checked the neutral switch and the wires are there but will have a closer look at the v-drive. I only have one temp gauge so I'm not sure it would be temp related as I am getting a temp reading once the engine warms up a little.

I would agree with you that buying a submerged boat potentially is opening up a can of worms. I am mechanically in inclined and own a commercial truck repair shop, just limited boat and carb experience.

As for chasing ghosts I paid 1,000 for the boat, a comparable in good running condition here in BC would go for 15-18k. so I have room to replace most parts to prevent headaches down the road, new starter, altenator, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires etc... Hopefully coming in under what this boat retail would have cost me. As for the rest of the boat being a 96 its pretty basic there's not a crazy amount of electrical to chase down.
Old     (boardman74)      Join Date: Jul 2012       03-15-2015, 8:25 AM Reply   
A lot of those years had a strictly V drive over heat light somewhere on the dash, not a Vdrive temp gauge…that could be your wires. Also sometimes there are extra wires in the harnesses for accessories your boat didn't have. Thats also a possibility, that they shouldn't be hooked up at all. You should be able to see by the length where they could possible go to.

I know what your saying about carbs. I was a Heavy Equipment tech for Caterpillar for almost 10 years, carbs are greek to most diesel guys. I don't even clean my snowmobile carbs!! For me its easier to take them to a buddy who has a shop and know its done right!!

For a grand I would have taken a chance to if the boat looks good. Hopefully you get thru it and its doesn't give you problems for to long.
Old     (meathead65)      Join Date: Sep 2006       03-15-2015, 10:36 AM Reply   
The red warning light on most of that era v drives were actually low fluid pressure warnings, it is normal for it to be lit at idle but should go off once the motor comes off idle, usually by 12-1500 rpm's.
Old     (rallyart)      Join Date: Nov 2006       03-15-2015, 11:20 AM Reply   
Brain, If you are not familiar with carbs I would recommend that you get the carb completely rebuilt professionally. After being submerged there are many passages and parts that might be damaged or clogged. There should be no need for any jet changes or mixture adjustments but a small amount of sediment in the wrong place can stop you from running well.
It sounds like a nice find if someone looked after the engine when they pulled it out of the water. It's a great boat to drive. Gauges, ground wires, and wiring block connectors are all places to pay attention to when you are going through the boat.
Old     (ralph)      Join Date: Apr 2002       03-15-2015, 11:34 AM Reply   
I have an idea the black and white wires are for the inheritor lights, there is one in the seat base in front of the v drive on my 03 so its possible. Flip the switch for the lights and see if it livens up
Old     (TitanBC)      Join Date: Feb 2015       03-15-2015, 4:45 PM Reply   
Darren you were bang on thank you! As soon as I read your post I remembered seeing the light in the rear seat before I put it up out of the way while I worked on the mechanical. Thanks again It was really bugging me on where they went.

Art, you are probably right to leave things to a professional. I've always been the type to want to know how it works and one of the great things about this overhaul is I am getting a great grasp on all the working parts on my boat. I've ordered the merc service manual which I am told has a pretty good how to on the carb. I also have one of my HD techs has some experience with carbs so I'm thinking I'll give it a shot and hope he can bail me out if I get into trouble.... What could possibly go wrong lol...
Old     (86skier)      Join Date: Dec 2011       03-20-2015, 2:27 PM Reply   
I would recommend ditching the carb that you have and installing a new one completely. If you already have a new fuel pump, then It definitely sounds like a fuel problem.

I have had carbs rebuilt by buddies who are experts (my stepdads buddy was nicknamed diesel who did it) _ he was the diesel tech for freightliner.
The rebuild he did lasted two seasons. Then I had a Marine dealer do a complete replacement, new gaskets and never had another problem. The boat was an (86 American skier).

My understanding is that old carbs get pitted In the valves and it gets hard to get the right air/fuel mixture to stay idle. Also the carb springs if they are rusted don't have the right spring tension to return to the right spot to stay idle. This would be an obvious pitted problem (Rust) for a carb that was underwater.

I also hade buddies restore boats that have been submerged and pickled.

Also I would change the neutral safety switch as (from my understanding) on my old boat is that it is a ball bearing that slides in and out of place and can be finicky if it was submerged.

But mainly ditch the old carb and don't waste time and money on the rebuild and just buy a new one.
Old     (86skier)      Join Date: Dec 2011       03-20-2015, 2:40 PM Reply   
Oh and if you haven't changed the distributor. I would go with a new one too, or at least rebuild it if you like to tinker. But here is a good video on vacuum.
Old     (TitanBC)      Join Date: Feb 2015       03-22-2015, 9:44 PM Reply   
Thanks for the suggestions Craig, I will change out the neutral safety switch and the distributor.

As for the carb I rebuilt it this weekend I already had the overhaul kit. It was completely clogged up in the float bowl and you may be right about pitting. Hopefully the rebuild I did today will at least get the boat running for me in the mean time to get everything else done and I can look out changing the carb later on depending on how it's running.
Old     (TitanBC)      Join Date: Feb 2015       03-22-2015, 9:55 PM Reply   
Here's a pic of the carb bowls, definitely a pretty definitive answer on why the engine wouldn't stay running..... Sorry about the large pic I can't seem to figure on how to make them smaller on the ipad
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