Destroying Hard Tanks - Resale Impact?

I've tried now for the better part of 3 hours attempting to remove my hard tanks on my 2014 Sanger v215. They must have installed these tanks before the metal engine compartment framing went in because these things need to be a solid 2" shorter to come out. I've removed the aerator pumps and all. I'm about to take a reciprocating saw to both of them.

I will be installing 1100's with disconnects in their place.

Are there any hindsight regrets anyone has had about cutting up their hard tanks? Would a buyer really be interested in a hard tank over bags upon resale?

The way I see it, I'm getting more storage 70% of the time I use or even don't use the boat (when bags are empty). The little amount of storage reconfig I have to do when we are boarding/surfing seems reasonable.

I suppose it could effect the resale but if you plan on keeping the boat for quite a while I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you get an educated buyer once you do sell they shouldn't have an issue with it either.

Originally Posted by bcrider

I suppose it could effect the resale but if you plan on keeping the boat for quite a while I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you get an educated buyer once you do sell they shouldn't have an issue with it either.

I plan on keeping the boat for at least 7-10 years until I end up having to go bigger.

I would say your resale value will not get hurt by removal of the hard tanks, and when you do go to resell, you will have an easier time selling with bigger better bags.

7 to 10 years...go for it...

Pulled the tanks and aerator pumps in my last boat and went to jabsco pumps and sacks and it did not effect resale at all. If anything it added value to the boat .The key is to do a factory looking install. Make sure you use the factory style hose and switches and take your time and do it right and you should be good.

My intent is to keep everything looking and functioning the same. Still using the stock aerator pumps for the time being. Just trading out the hard tanks for bags and quick disconnect fittings. I don't think anyone would be able to tell hard tanks were originally installed.

I was worried about this when I pulled the hard tanks from my 06 vride. I kept the tanks. They are gathering dust at my house (boat sold in 2011). Free to a good home.

I have thought about pulling tanks out of my 210 but haven't. I think I could get alittle more weight in the back vs tanks and 750's if I went 1100's. With that said though I don't think I'd hack them up to get them out either. But in that same note if I were shopping for another boat and it had tanks removed id still buy it if I liked the other things about the boat.

Pulled the tanks from my Sanger V230 and put 1100s in each corner. Mine are free to a good home as well. Hack and saw if you need to, had mine up for grabs for almost a year and nobody cares. More weight, more storage, it's a no brainer. You have the walls out right?

I have all the walls out at the moment. Going to get the support brackets from wakemakers as well. Might leave the rear walls off and cover up the bolts.

I guess I wasn't all that worried....I used the floor that was above the tanks to make new divider panels. The tsunami pumps were quite annoying with the bags...reversibles which drain and overflow from the top are 1000x better.

Pretty sure you can get them out whole. My friend looped a ratchet strap around his and compressed them, then they lifted straight out

i have pulled the rear tanks from my 2008 210 and replaced with 1100 sacs. the tank are in my attic above the garage. probably just offer them to next owner..

The newer v215 Sangers must be using a longer tank. The tanks are definitely longer than the hatch opening by 4-5 inches. I removed the brackets, pumps and valves for more wiggle room. As soon as I move the tanks further rearward and lift from the front the rear becomes limited by the hatch opening. Absolutely no can do. Theyes will fall victim to my dewalt reciprocating saw this weekend.

ballast is ballast, who cares if it's a bag or a tank? I don't think it would affect resale value at all. As long as there is a legitimate reason for it, the buyers won't worry. Just make sure they understand it was done for value add and not because of theft/neglect/defect.

Originally Posted by boardjnky4

ballast is ballast, who cares if it's a bag or a tank? I don't think it would affect resale value at all. As long as there is a legitimate reason for it, the buyers won't worry. Just make sure they understand it was done for value add and not because of theft/neglect/defect.

Nope, I think hard tanks are awesome. Its nice to have a hard flat surface for storage (or for a supplementary sack). Keeping gear on top of a sack that drains and fills is a bit of a pain sometimes, vests get stuck around the sides and what not. ITs definitely something that only becomes a hassle after you deal with it for a long time.

This would be true, if the space above the hard tank was relevant. There is zero space above the hard tanks in this case.

Originally Posted by ilikebeaverandboats

Nope, I think hard tanks are awesome. Its nice to have a hard flat surface for storage (or for a supplementary sack). Keeping gear on top of a sack that drains and fills is a bit of a pain sometimes, vests get stuck around the sides and what not. ITs definitely something that only becomes a hassle after you deal with it for a long time.

I do understand what you're saying with the gear on top of the bags, but the minor hassle of the gear is well worth the added ballast size and simplicity of the configuration.

Tanks are out. Measurements are 49 x 22 x 23 of usable space. With the original fill pumps sitting at the back middle of the compartment, I relocated them 5" inward with brass fittings that way the bags won't be sitting on them with unwanted pressure. The brass piping takes away 4 x 4 x 4 usable space in each compartment.

Wakemakers fittings are on order. I also ordered 2 in-line check valves to avoid siphoning on the fill lines

I have a V215 too. I used a sawzall to remove mine and never looked back. IMO having 1100# sacs is a huge improvement.

Originally Posted by BaadLS1

This would be true, if the space above the hard tank was relevant. There is zero space above the hard tanks in this case.

your hard tanks go all the way to the top of the compartment?

In that case.... why are you removing them to put in "bigger" bags.... what am i missing here....



but sweet, I have 1100#'s in the rear lockers and i like

Originally Posted by ilikebeaverandboats

your hard tanks go all the way to the top of the compartment?

In that case.... why are you removing them to put in "bigger" bags.... what am i missing here....



but sweet, I have 1100#'s in the rear lockers and i like

Because the hard tanks are only 10" wide and only hold 250 lbs.

IMO if you're worried about resale just sell the boat now and get what you'd be happy with long term then do whatever you want to it.

From a buyer perspective I like hard tanks, but sacks are preferable for versatility. I appreciate time and money invested into making things better and factor that into my offers. Hack jobs that need to be redone lower my offers. Others may offer more for original, or more for modified to their liking. It's a crap shoot, which is why I say get what you like, make it do what you want, and don't worry about resale.

I'm probably in the minority, but when I was looking for a used boat, unless it was going to be a good deal, I avoided anything that had a ton of plumbed in ballast. It may be negligible, but my rationale was that it has to add strain to the motor and trans. I figured I could buy pumps and bags for less than significant engine or trans work. That being said, I was looking at stuff that was built in the early 2000's. The new stuff is all coming with a lot more ballast, so it's probably a nonissue.

Based on those photos looks like sanger used two of the fuel tanks as ballast tanks. Looks just like my fuel tank in middle of floor.