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Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-11-2011, 12:17 PM Reply   
I'm in the proccess of planing out a new Garage. The plan is to add a 2nd garage to the lake house. I want a Garage that is tall enough to not have to fold the tower down. So that around 12 feet. I also want to make sure it's tall enough that other boats will fit in with their tower up.
I have room for a 14 foot door. I was thinking about 2 roll up doors with a 12 to 14 foot opening.
Most boat's are around 8 foot wide so a standard 10 foot wide door is to narrow. So I'm looking at 16 foot wide doors. My current garage will then become the car garage.
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       11-11-2011, 12:45 PM Reply   
Sounds cool. I'm just finishing up building a garage for my boat as well. I ended up just doing a single bay but my Sanger V210 with the tower up is 10 feet tall. I opted to make the interior high enough but not the door (would make my building look funny). I can't tell from your post if you're doing 1 16' door or 2 smaller roll up doors. If you're talking a single 16' wide door and if you've got 2 8' wide boats next to each other I'd go with a wider door if possible. The more wiggle room the better.

The other thing I did was get a door opener that mounts to the front wall of the building instead of overhead in the middle. It means I can park my boat closer to the front of the building with the tower up and it won't hit a ceiling mount opener.

I opted to make mine 32' deep so I have room behind the boat for a work bench and room to work. That way our old existing garage can be just for the cars.
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-11-2011, 3:23 PM Reply   
Im talking about doing 2 16 wide 14 tall roll up door's here is a pic of the street view of where i wanna do it
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-11-2011, 3:26 PM Reply   
Before and After Drawings
Attached Images
  
Old     (ralph)      Join Date: Apr 2002       11-11-2011, 3:49 PM Reply   
Deck over the garage will be money, if you can put a slot drain in the floor of the garage so when water spills out of the boat intake's and exhaust it gets run away nicely is a good option
Old     (Becks62)      Join Date: Oct 2011       11-11-2011, 5:53 PM Reply   
http://www.wahttp://www.wakeworld.co...06253462534534


Here's some pic's how I made up the garage for the Nautique, Hope i down loaded the pics alright
Attached Images
     
Old     (durty_curt)      Join Date: Apr 2008       11-11-2011, 10:43 PM Reply   
wow! how much of a pain in the a$$ is it to put together/put away that beauty?!
Old     (992envy)      Join Date: Jul 2011       11-11-2011, 11:15 PM Reply   
Pretty sweet Grant. How is HOA with getting permits and what not for a build like this?
Old     (Becks62)      Join Date: Oct 2011       11-12-2011, 7:26 AM Reply   
Only once a year for winter storage, it stays outside for the boating season.
Old     (bmcgee)      Join Date: Nov 2007       11-13-2011, 3:53 PM Reply   
I would consider talking to an engineer about putting in some steel I-beams in the ceiling over one of the bays. That way you could hang the boat from the ceiling if you ever needed to work on the trailer. I'm not sure how much of an extra cost that would be, but it might be something to consider looking in to.
Old     (delmage171)      Join Date: Mar 2008       11-13-2011, 6:05 PM Reply   
Here is my perfect garage. I didnt build this shop because I bought the house this spring for a good deal and the shop came with it.

-30x40x12
-fully insulated
-woodstove heat
-forced air gas furnace (with full ducting)
-16x10 main door
-8x8 side door for sleds, lawnmowers, dirt bikes etc.
-has a 14"x6" I Beam spanning the width and supported by 14"x6" vertical I beam Posts for lifting
-has water & urinal

Still have some updates to do but it works awesome for me






Last edited by delmage171; 11-13-2011 at 6:06 PM. Reason: forgot picture
Old     (chris4x4gill2)      Join Date: Sep 2009       11-15-2011, 6:43 AM Reply   
No matter what you have or what you build..... the perfect garage is a bigger one.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       11-15-2011, 8:54 AM Reply   
I might entertain a few details like:
The garage doors seating an inch below floor level in order to curb water from coming in from a horizontally driven rain..
If it gets cold there and I do alot of work in the garage I might investigate the efficiency and cost of heated water piped under the concrete floor or overhead wiring for infrared heaters.
Lots of overhead and general AC power access built in.
HD AC service (25 amp vs 15 amp) in one or two locations for major battery chargers and maybe a compressor.
Building all storage into the initial plan.
All benches or floor standing fixtures on recessed but HD casters to allow easy relocation depending on the current project.
Rub rails (like a hospital) to eliminate wall maintence.

David
Earmark Marine
Old     (wakeboardin)      Join Date: Apr 2001       11-15-2011, 9:52 AM Reply   
Grant, Is it safe to assume you will be getting rid of the oak trees in the area where the garage would go? If so will they let you do this in Nor Cal easily? Down in So Cal it is not allowed at all to remove the oaks at all but they can be trimmed. Just curious to how you would get around this since I have one at my rentals that drives me nuts.
Old     (sidekicknicholas)      Join Date: Mar 2007       11-15-2011, 11:44 AM Reply   
Quote:
If it gets cold there and I do alot of work in the garage I might investigate the efficiency and cost of heated water piped under the concrete floor
Running the heating/cooling ducts through the concrete is a great way to get heat.... once it is warm/cold it stays that way for a long time
Old     (norcalrider)      Join Date: Jun 2002       11-15-2011, 12:07 PM Reply   
This looks like another cool project. Will this be a shop or just storage?

The ideas I really like are:
slot drains
hospital rub rails
bathroom

I recently ran co-ax and cat6 to my garage which is nice for having games/fights on while working out there.

As far as radiant flooring, it might be more energy efficient for a garage/shop/storage to use electric as opposed to hydronic. I guess it really depends on the planned use and how the house is set up.
Old     (fish6942)      Join Date: Dec 2005       11-15-2011, 12:47 PM Reply   
I have hot water heat in the floor of my garage/shop. It's nice until you want to make a significant change in temps. It takes many hours to move the temperature by 5+ degrees. In the winter I leave the temp in the lower 50s during the week and then if I'm planning to work out there on the weekend I have to remember to turn the heat up on Friday. With that being said, in-floor heat is by far the most comfortable to work in - no more cold feet!!
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       11-15-2011, 2:34 PM Reply   
Yeah, you've got to be able to watch the game if you've got a project going in the garage. Use UHF modulation with a UHF remote control so you can run the garage as slave to another existing receiver so that you do not need a dedicated unit for the garage. And, water/plumbing in a utility sink is also a good idea so you can do projects without taking the clean-up in the house.

David
Earmark Marine
Old     (furreal)      Join Date: Sep 2011       11-16-2011, 11:29 AM Reply   
G - didn't you just build that damn garage?
Old    Haugy            11-17-2011, 2:06 PM Reply   
Seeing how I just finished building mine, I'll throw in some thoughts:

-Power, power, power, you can never have too many outlets. As you can see by my pics, I have them every 5 feet. And I've almost used about 50% already. Power in the ceiling for lights, fans, drop lights, anything you can think of later that you will need power for. Put it up there now while it's easy. Power in the top corners make great locations for fans.
-Make sure your concrete is above the driveway level to prevent runoff like someone mentioned, and put a french drain in front of that lip to help control pooling.
-ANGLES, make sure you make this sucker as level as possible for entrance otherwise you might end up gouging concrete with the prop-guard.
-14' high doors are good as they will accomodate an RV (good for resale), just make sure it's long enough to hold one now. (typically 30-40').
-Any particular reason for roll-ups? Other than cost? I have a 12x12 and a 16x10 residential doors so I can insulate them.
-If you can get it, get radiant floor heating, it's beyond amazing, especially for boat storage.
-Put a bunch of lights outside for when you might work on the boat outside of the shop.
-Spray foam insulation is very worth it, if it's in the budget.





Old     (mikeski)      Join Date: Aug 2003       11-17-2011, 9:46 PM Reply   
I know the lakehouse and Grant pretty well so I will put in my $0.02 of what I think he needs. It would be really cool if you could have a door out the back of the hall, bathroom, or kitchen to a walkway to the top deck, maybe even a walkway from the existing deck. The angle of the driveway would also be a big issue. The slope up to my side yard is not that high but it is a good challenge getting my boat up into my side yard so the closer to level you can go the better. Be careful with transitions between different slopes so you don't create a propguard dragging issue. I would prefer a single door if possible. It is much easier to do different things or just putting the boat in the middle when only one is going in if you have a single door. I would go with 12' tall by 18' wide with a row of frosted windows across one of the panels. In addition to power and plumbing (including a urinal) I would add some air lines that a compressor could pressurize when needed. I would look at some car lifts and add the power drop so one like Andreas' could be added later if you get into cars and need a 2nd level for parking. Rear or side windows or skylights are good too, natural light is always a rare bonus in a garage. Thirty feet deep should be adequate, more is OK but I would try to keep it pretty close to 30' deep. Flooring is debatable but my personal opinion is that garages should have smooth concrete floors. Walls should be white or light grey so they don't suck up the available light (gloss finish for easy cleaning), maybe even one area painted with whiteboard paint so you can sketch up project lists or project ideas. I would put four 2x4' 3 lamp commercial fluorescent light fixtures with 3/2/1 switching, the 1 lamp ballasts would be on a motion sensor. Plumb it for gas too if you have gas, I don't remember if you do. Full racks for boards, skis, bikes, whatever. Row of deep closed front cabinets and full side of workbench. Area for power tools like router table, table saw, radial arm saw, band saw, drill press, etc. all plumbed with vacuum hose for dustless cutting inside, plumb the built in vac with a hose too while you are at it. I could go on but I will stop before the value of the garage exceeds the value of the home LOL.
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-18-2011, 6:07 AM Reply   
Yes the oak trees will have to go. The drive way will be very flat going into the new garage floor.
The size or height of the door is up for debate. My boat and the poontoon have a tower height of around 12 feet tall. But i would like to account for other boats so the 12 foot tall garage might be to short. 14 foot tall seems to be the next size up. And i think its best to have 2 garage doors the same size. That way there is no Short side. The deepest i can go is around 35 feet. Thats what im gonna do. That way the deck will wrap around to the top of the garage.
I wish i could go deeper like 40 or so a common RV would fit but you cant always get what you want. I do want to make it so that i have the ability to remove the boat from the trailer.
Old    Haugy            11-18-2011, 6:27 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by grant_west View Post
I do want to make it so that i have the ability to remove the boat from the trailer.
My shop is 30' deep, and it allows my 24' to fit on trailer with about 3' in the front, and 1' in the back. Just so you know.

As for two doors, yes. Never go one door. I know so many that do, and regret it later.

Can you explain the comment above? Ability to remove the boat from the trailer? Do you do a lot of off trailer work? Are you wanting to work on the bottom of the boat or the trailer?

I have some ideas that can help you facilitate that depending on which one you plan on doing. Also in regards to the lifts, if you do decide to get a two post lift (which are so nice to have), make sure you get the extra wide. A newer boat won't fit in between a standard lift, and it will barely fit between a wide lift. They are handy for trailer brake work, tire rotations, and other general automotive work.

A two post lift and a gantry crane can be used together to lift the boat off the trailer and suspend it, or put it on boat stands. But a two post should not be used to lift a boat alone. I've seen guys put straps on their boats and put the lift above the boat and lift the boat with lifting straps under it. But the ones that use a two post usually have to try about 5-10 times to get it balanced right, and if you do it wrong, the boat will crash into the floor.
Old     (jeff_mn)      Join Date: Jul 2009       11-18-2011, 7:40 AM Reply   
god damn..

#luxuryproblems
Old     (brett33)      Join Date: Apr 2011       11-18-2011, 7:58 AM Reply   
^ lol
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-18-2011, 7:36 PM Reply   
I wanted the ability to take the boat off the trailer to work on the bottom of the boat or work on the trailer. I had seen a few boat garages with I " beams over head and a chain and winch lift that can lift the boat from the lifting hooks
Old    Haugy            11-20-2011, 9:10 AM Reply   
Google "Gantry Crane"

I've seen the ibeam trick before, but in order to really make the best of one you need to be able to span the whole shop. The uses for those things are endless.

You can put 4 posts at each coner and then have two parallel beams running the long span with supports in the middle, and then one beam between them on rollers running along those two long beams. But you would have to have some serious I beams for those load ratings. I did the load calculations on having I-beams span my 40x30 and then priced out the beams. OUCH. $$$

Or make two gantry cranes. Not only can you lift your boat, but then you can move it around in the shop. Great for engine pulling too. They are also handy as they are self-centering. They will center themselves under the load which helps you from being off-balance.
Old     (buffalow)      Join Date: Apr 2002       11-21-2011, 7:45 AM Reply   
While I am thinking of this - What are you guys using on your garage floors. I am ready to do mine now and starting to research what is out there.
Old     (newty)      Join Date: May 2005       11-21-2011, 10:06 AM Reply   
I'm guessing that if/when you try to pull permits and get engineering for this you will run into problems with digging against the stemwall and foundation of the house. They may require you to do some serious reinforcement during the build, or there may be some limits as to how close to the house you can build. I would definatly have an engineer look at it. Love the idea. Post pics as you go!
Old     (norcalrider)      Join Date: Jun 2002       11-21-2011, 12:09 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalow View Post
While I am thinking of this - What are you guys using on your garage floors. I am ready to do mine now and starting to research what is out there.
This looks really cool: http://www.wolverinecoatings.com/illumiflect3031/
Old     (992envy)      Join Date: Jul 2011       11-21-2011, 10:53 PM Reply   
I just installed Pure Mettlic in my shop, all I can say is AMAZING people are blown away with my floor. http://www.puremetallic.com/index.html
Old    Haugy            11-22-2011, 6:36 AM Reply   
I used Wolverine for my floor. I would also recommend Epoxy-coat. Those are my two choices for epoxy. Both are considered to be the best in their industry. If I were to do it again though, I would go with a high polished concrete with color mixed into the concrete, and then a polyspartic coating.

Resistant to stains, brake fluid, etc. And won't gouge like Epoxy will if you drag an axle or heavy item across it.

Here is my Wolverine floor before I finished the interior of my shop. I've been very pleased. If you go with epoxy, get a no-slip additive. I love my high gloss shine, but it can be slick at times.


And here is after with the walls, and the new (to me) boat.
Old     (wakecumberland)      Join Date: Oct 2007       11-22-2011, 7:53 AM Reply   
Haugy, Did you do spray foam insulation?
Old    Haugy            11-22-2011, 9:27 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by wakecumberland View Post
Haugy, Did you do spray foam insulation?
Yes. I framed it out, then had them spray insulate the walls only. They spray foamed 1.5" of closed cell foam. I then put R19 batts in the walls with a 1" gap between them. I used 2x6's for studs instead of 2x4's creating a deep wall space. Then I drywalled it. Then I put up 8mil thick plastic on the ceiling with steel sheets. It will be getting R30 fiberglass blown in soon. It already takes the shop two hours to change temperature. This summer, it would still be a cool 75 at noon when it was 95. By the end of the day it finally got up to hot temperatures. But then it would take hours to cool down. So once an A/C and heat system goes in, it should level out very easily.

With that spray foam, air movement stopped. It was amazing to see the difference instantly. The noise also really quieted down in the shop. Once I insulate the overhead doors, you shouldn't hear anything from the shop. I can run an angle grinder on steel, and you can only hear it outside of the shop. If you are in the house, not a sound.










Sorry, Grant, please don't think I'm hijacking or attenion wh'ing your thread. I've been down this road recently, and just want to share what I did to help others start their build.
Old     (bcrider)      Join Date: Apr 2006       11-22-2011, 10:43 AM Reply   
I have garage envy right now!!! Those are some nice boat/car holds you have.
Old     (ElectraGlide)      Join Date: Oct 2011       11-22-2011, 6:48 PM Reply   
Don't want to hijack the thread, but these are the most unbelievable garages I have ever seen. Talk about garage envy...


http://www.luxury4play.com/automotiv...d-50-pics.html



A few teaser pics.....














Last edited by ElectraGlide; 11-22-2011 at 6:52 PM. Reason: pics
Old     (jon4pres)      Join Date: May 2004       11-23-2011, 4:23 AM Reply   
The garages above while amazing are not really garages. They are more like museums. Things that I would look for in a garage.

Space - You can never have enough. Make room for a nice work bench and a place for storing stuff.
Outlets - You can never have enough
Lights - Nothing fancy but there needs to be enough of it to work on stuff
Doors - You can never have too many or have them too big. I would put in a 16ft door.
Drain

If you have a centralized vacume in your house it would be great to have a drop down from the ceiling for cleaning your boat.

Those are the things that I would have in my dream garage. . . and maybe a few of the cars from the pictures above.
Old     (bcrider)      Join Date: Apr 2006       11-23-2011, 9:01 AM Reply   
I have always thought that if you had the room a garage that is double doored ( front and back) would be great for boats so you could just pull right through with the truck instead of having to back the boat in all of the time.
Old     (chris_b)      Join Date: Feb 2007       11-29-2011, 8:38 PM Reply   
I just built one for my boat as well. It is 24x32 with 12 foot walls. I put two doors on it 10x11, and pitched it 10x12 so I could have an upstairs. I wanted to go 32x32, but I just did not have the room due septic lines.
Attached Images
  
Old     (nu2dagam)      Join Date: May 2004       12-05-2011, 9:18 AM Reply   
How much are these garages coming in price wise? I am about to start building one, but wanted to stay in the 10K range. Haugy, how was the steel building compared to frame construction?
Old     (buffalow)      Join Date: Apr 2002       12-05-2011, 9:53 AM Reply   
What are you guys doing for your floors. I want to do an epoxy of some kind, but hear the generic stuff and your local home improvement place are no good. Anybody have experience or thoughts on it?
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       12-05-2011, 2:25 PM Reply   
To answer the price question... I'm including quite a few details because building materials and labor to install varies tremendously depending on what you choose.

I did a 16x32 conventional stick-frame on a traditional foundation (not monopour) with a 10.5 foot interior ceiling height, 3 windows, 1 man door, 1 steel insulated 10x8 garage door, hardiplank siding, composite shingle roofing (architectural), electrical (3 interior light boxes, will have 2 long rows of fluorescents, 15 receptacles, 2 exterior light fixtures, interior sub panel), insulated and sheetrocked for about $15k. But that's with me doing a lot of the work myself (roofing, drainage, electrical, painting, sheetrock, insulation). Oh, it also includes permits, which worked out to be about a thousand dollars (health dept., building dept., L&I for electrical).

My original plan was to go for 14x24 (just big enough to hold the boat) but my brother in law convinced me to go a bit bigger so I'd have more wiggle room when backing the boat in, more storage and walking room around the sides of the boat, and about 8 feet in the back for a workbench and work area.

I also went tall on the inside (used 104 5/8" studs) so I could fold the tower up on the inside. I didn't get a door tall enough to put the boat in with the tower up, I still have to fold it down to put it in/out).

Also cost varies based on where you are. I'm in the pacific NW.
Old     (chris_b)      Join Date: Feb 2007       12-06-2011, 10:15 AM Reply   
Here is some details on mine from above.
24X32 12ft. walls 3-windows 1-side entry door 2-10x11 doors

concrete = 1700 (contracted: I have never finished concrete)
10x11 doors = 2200 (contracted: not my specialty, and they need to work!!)
stick frame roof(2x6) = 900 (rafter option was 2800)

I have about 9800 or a little less in it. I am insulating it now. I have thought about staining the floors and covering it with polyurethane. On the house garage, I painted the floor with epoxy for Lowe's and covered with polyurethane. It has held well for 3 months so far. I'll post a picture when I find it.
Old     (daveronix199)      Join Date: Feb 2009       12-06-2011, 10:31 AM Reply   
Best Garage we ever built!
Attached Images
 
Old     (daveronix199)      Join Date: Feb 2009       12-06-2011, 10:35 AM Reply   
Inside
Attached Images
  
Old     (migs)      Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: SF Bay Area       12-06-2011, 10:47 AM Reply   
^^^wow!!!!!
Old     (jeff_mn)      Join Date: Jul 2009       12-06-2011, 11:24 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveronix199 View Post
Best Garage we ever built!
Not work safe language

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBgIlaTC0vo
Old     (816)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-06-2011, 1:05 PM Reply   
not bad, I would have installed taller garage doors to keep from taking towers up and down.
still nice though.
Old     (816)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-06-2011, 1:07 PM Reply   
you can't hide money!!!!
Old     (daveronix199)      Join Date: Feb 2009       12-06-2011, 2:20 PM Reply   
hahaaha... at the time we owned a prostar 205 never thought we would own a boat with a tower... In retrospect we should have!
Old     (816)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-06-2011, 5:11 PM Reply   
D.Y.I...Simply remove some bay windows, remove your living room floor, extend your garage doors by a few panels, and your in business. lol
Old     (816)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-06-2011, 6:56 PM Reply   
D.i.y.

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