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Old     (hferrell12)      Join Date: May 2015       05-19-2015, 10:06 AM Reply   
I just picked up a Supra launch 22 SSV that's in pretty rough shape. Everything important is in good shape Hull, motor, tower, gelcoat.

Pretty sure it's been sitting out in the weather for the last year so needless to say I've got some work to do. But, I got it for $15,000, so if I can put $3k in it and have it all slicked up and running good I'll be happier that a queer in a dick tree. Here's what I need help with.

All the lift shock are gone, like not present, and I need to buy new ones and my local dealer is a bozo and has no interest in helping me.

I need:
Rear lift shocks for port & starboard rear compartments over the ballast bags.
Both center lift shocks for the ski-locker (play-pen seating)

Anyone have a part # I could reference. I'd owe you big time?

Also, changing out the steering cables tonight/tomorrow night. Any suggestions, tips, tricks, haven't even looked at how to disconnect from rudder shaft, I imagine the steering wheel will be easy. I bought the updated Teleflex SSC15420

And, Anyone know how to take that bolt out of the tower at the Y so I can fold it down? I've stared at the funky lookin bolt for a solid hour saying to myself "Self, WTH"
Old     (tyler97217)      Join Date: Aug 2004       05-20-2015, 9:24 AM Reply   
Congrats.... Let's see pics.. Sounds like a deal
As for the shocks, I would pull the ones you have off and see part numbers and try to order on line. You can usually just measure the length when compressed and when open and find them all over the internet way cheaper than the parts counter.
Would need to see pics of the bolt in question on folding the tower. Depending on the year, I think they had a hand screw knob, but would have to see it and if it is weird, maybe just replace it with a hand knob bolt.
Old     (hferrell12)      Join Date: May 2015       05-21-2015, 6:53 AM Reply   
Well, I Don't have the old shocks, they're all missing except for the one over the engine.

And I was starting to think the weird bolt was a hand screw knob where the hand screw had fallen off. I don't have a pic but that's probably what it is. It has a piece sign in the bolt (where there would be a Phillips or flat head).

I think I included a picture, but I'm not seeing it right now.

Anyone have suggestions on decals? These guys took off the factory decals (which were my all time favorite) and you cant get them anymore. I've talked to some buddies and they think the original look is dated. what do y'all think?

I have 0 interest in a wrap from ZDecals or anywhere, or anything that wasn't originally a supra factory graphic. I'm thinking about the 2015 raised matte black emblem but they're $160 EACH. They would have to be from a model <5 or so years old so Skiiers Choice still has it.

Also, I have the factory Ballast bags, but I cant tell if they're actually the ballast, or the protective bag the ballast fits inside. They're light gray with a zipper on top. I haven't had ballasts before but everything I see is made out of neoprene or polyethelyne type material.
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Old     (tyler97217)      Join Date: Aug 2004       05-21-2015, 8:01 AM Reply   
You should be able to get any vinyl or sign guy to make you the old graphics if you can get him pics in high resolution and a size.
As for the ballast bags.... Those don't sound factory. Those sound like the protective bags the old launch sacs used to reside in. Would need a pic. The bags back then were a grey in color and had probably 3 plugs in it that would plug into the stock plumbing... Would need pics.
Old     (99Bison)      Join Date: Sep 2012       05-21-2015, 2:15 PM Reply   
I have a 2001... that have done a lot of stuff too also. It's going up for sale soon.

The tower should have allen headed bolts 3/8 maybe or was it 8mm... what does your's look like?

I replaced all the hatch lifts, many of the mounts, etc. I'll try and look around monday/tuesday when I bring the boat back home.

Re steering cable... There was a trick, trying to remember.... I think don't unscrew the bolts in the "block" entirely, just loosen them enough to slide the cable out.

Last edited by 99Bison; 05-21-2015 at 2:17 PM.
Old     (hferrell12)      Join Date: May 2015       05-27-2015, 12:01 PM Reply   
Update:

Got the steering cable done with about 30 minutes of work each night for 3 nights. Easier than expected. A few notes for anyone who goes through it.

It would have been much easier if I had the new part prior to removal of the old one, So I knew what to take off and what to leave on. But, for the people in a time crunch that do the same thing as I did here are my suggestions.

1. only remove the flat-bar rack from the bottom side of the steering column. I got all confused trying to figure out which part of the new rack would come with the assembly.

2. Remove the fuel pump to access the bolts holding the "block" in. Leave the hoses on and fold the pump out of the way.

3. if the "rod bearing" (the casing used to hold the cable in place under the motor) is seized. I used an angle grinder to chop the female threads on the old cable off & leave the casing intact.

I found the lift shock for the rear compartments, but still need the #'s for the center lift hatch if anyone is still listening.

I replaced the Gauge panel for the Dash, about 20 minutes in I thought it was a total nightmare, but with patientence, a pen & paper I drew out the diagram and had it all back together in about 1.5 hours. bought the panel off great lakes skipper listed as a Saltare panel.

Lastly, the electronics, if anyone else has run into this, the two switch panels have circuit boards behind them that the switches plug into. After getting those plugged back in ive got 95% of the electronics working.
Old     (99Bison)      Join Date: Sep 2012       05-28-2015, 2:20 PM Reply   
Looked last night, it looks like you already got these though:
Rear locker:
GSNI-5200-20

Middle locker pair of I think... didn't write it down will try and look again tonight or tomorrow.
GSNI-5200-30
Old     (99Bison)      Join Date: Sep 2012       05-31-2015, 8:36 PM Reply   
Looked yesterday, the ski locker has pair of 5200-40, I suspect 30's would also work.
Old     (hferrell12)      Join Date: May 2015       06-15-2015, 6:48 AM Reply   
Thanks for the help man. Now I've worked most of that out. Time for some more dumb questions.

Fill Ballasts: I got all the exit pumps working, the fill switches light up, but nothing happens....

I got all the exit pumps working. I don't really know how to diagnose this as I can only really test it on the water. Guess I need to take it out with the front of the engine accessible.

Also, If someone could give me an elementary explanation of how you're supposed to fill the ballasts. idle, 5 mph, 15 mph? How long does it take? 1100 center & 250's in the rear.
Old     (99Bison)      Join Date: Sep 2012       06-15-2015, 11:08 AM Reply   
I re-plumbed all mine so not stock, but reused rear exit pumps and fill pump into one rear bag. If you have stock it probably has valves?

You should be able to test that the pumps actually turn on - they make noise enough to hear easily. Re the valves, not sure what they do as i've never had them.

Re for filling, i've noticed on this boat that moving slowly (5mph?) seems be help a little, but going faster (~15?) prevents filling altogether to some degree.

Since don't have sprinkler valves, can't say on fill time. On separate all pumps it takes a few mins? 5-7 maybe for all (1200+ center, 750- rears).

Last edited by 99Bison; 06-15-2015 at 11:12 AM.

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