reworking the chines on a Malibu diamond hull? V25D

Has anyone ever attempted to rework or shave down the chines on a V25D or diamond hull? I am curious because i got what I consider a really good price on a "Wakesetter" 23 LSV .
The problem....... it says wakesetter on the side and has everything that looks like the wakesetter but after purchase discover that it is really a Sunscape with the "wakeboard package" and has a diamond hull.

Now I have scoured WW and other sites on this and people doesn't seem to think it matters on previous generation SV23D hulls but not much information on the V25D ie. 2004 or 2005 to 2008
Specifically I want to know about the wake on a 2005 23 LSV with a diamond hull.

Is it really harder to get a great wake out of it and has anyone altered the chines (esentially they trap air at speed to raise the back end) to try and do so?
I figure if the chines don't trap air to create lift...... problem solved.

Hey gene, from everything I've read/heard it shouldn't matter at wakeboard speeds. Congrats on the boat btw, guess you sold the supra? I have the v25 wake hull on my vlx if you want to compare before you start chopping away.

Check on themalibucrew.com also but I think the consensus is the same that it won't make any difference until you get up to 30mph

Thanks man. That is what some people say but the many experienced riders swear there is a difference in wake shape and say it is harder to sink it even at wakeboard speeds. Especially since it is a 23LSV . I guess we shall see.
I may take you up on riding yours and then mine. Have you been out riding? I have literally been on the water 2 times all damn year to actually ride! We need rain!!!

I bet we can get a really good wake out of it. Will be a little harder since it's a 23. Do you have a bow tank? If not start there. People usually don't weight the Bu's correctly coming from other boats. If your running the wedge, you wanna bury the nose (think plowing through the water) to get a real poppy/meaty wake. I usually run around 70/30 front/rear ratio on weight if running the wedge down(front being midship forward). Sounds crazy but makes a huge difference. You will want to upgrade to at least the acme 1235 or better if you haven't yet.

Yea I've been out a lot, my lake is constant level

Not sure how good of a deal you got, but I'd imagine if you weren't doing the work yourself that by the time you paid someone to attempt to modify the chines, it might not be such a good deal anymore and you might run the risk of being left with a not so good boat anymore too. Got any pics of it? I'm interested in that year and def would take a 23lsv wake hull or diamond. (Pic cause I like boats and curious what you ended up with and paid...not trying to swoop in on yours- unless of course you wanted to flip it for the different hull lol)

Tony, I don't have a front tank but do have a triangle sac and a 14.5 x 14 prop.
Detox, that is what I am afraid of also. I got a generalized quote of $3500 from a guy in Mesquite.

Unless you are riding at speeds of Randall Harris, you are not going to notice a difference. Most get the notion in their head and all Of a sudden it is not as good of a wake. As mentioned bu's like bow weight. Don't be disappointed, you will still get a great wake out of your boat.

+1 on bow weight. I have the bow tank. I run mine very nose heavy. Bow tank + 1100 triangle + a 750 in the walkway and a 450 in the floor right behind it. Rear lockers with 400-450 a piece in them with the wedge down. Huge wake!

Don't discount the Diamond hull. Some of the best wakes I have ridden behind were sunscapes.

What you are really talking about is splitting hairs. Even if did all the work on the hull, it probably wouldn't make the wake "better", just different. Mix up the weight configuration. I know that boat can make a killer wake.

Thanks Justin. Are you referring to the diamond hull on an 04 to 09 23 LSV?

If so that makes me feel much better.

Just a little info for you, originally "wakesetter" was a package. A wakesetter and sunscape were the same hulls/boats, but the wakesetter package included the tower, ballast tanks, wedge, wakesetter graphics, and a few other items. People think there is a huge difference in the boats, when in reality they were the same thing. You will get a great wake out of it

Originally Posted by tn_rider

+1 on bow weight. I have the bow tank. I run mine very nose heavy. Bow tank + 1100 triangle + a 750 in the walkway and a 450 in the floor right behind it. Rear lockers with 400-450 a piece in them with the wedge down. Huge wake!
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New question...Can you dig out the hull a little to fit a 16" prop under there?? In all seriousness, that is awesome! This guy knows what he's doin, all that up front and around 800lbs in the back...take notes malibu owners!!

Originally Posted by T_A

New question...Can you dig out the hull a little to fit a 16" prop under there?? In all seriousness, that is awesome! This guy knows what he's doin, all that up front and around 800lbs in the back...take notes malibu owners!!

Actually when we did that with Matt Grants and a few others on Ray Hubbard it mellowed the wake out quite a bit.
His ideal setup was 2 750's in the back on top of stock and the triangle up front on top of stock. He did have the regular V25 hull though.

Maybe the LSV doesn't like it like the VLX then...Mike and Brian both weight their VLX's similar to above but with lead and their wake is rediculous. I weight mine similar but with about 1000 lbs less...

Gene

Hunter and I weighted Brad's similar to this as well and it was great. We put a 750 on the seats in the bow and a 750 in the walkway with the stock full and the wedge. It was a little nose heavy but manageable. Brian's wake is my favorite it is just about perfect.

I run a 2315 with the 350 motor. you know you have it right if you get a splash of water over the bow when you stop. Like said above. The wake is amazing. Huge with a big lip on it.

Originally Posted by gene3x

Actually when we did that with Matt Grants and a few others on Ray Hubbard it mellowed the wake out quite a bit.

His ideal setup was 2 750's in the back on top of stock and the triangle up front on top of stock. He did have the regular V25 hull though.

Did you use the wedge? It's key with this setup. With no wedge the wake is mellow. Drop the wedge and it comes alive.

Hahaha, that nose rub rail 2 inches out of the water is ridiculous! Not sure I want to manage the driving that closely much less trust anyone else with it!
Fyi, we did not have the wedge down.

That of course brings me to another question. Should I just go ahead and upgrade the screws in the old wedge to prevent the dreaded and inevitable failure?

Originally Posted by gene3x

Hahaha, that nose rub rail 2 inches out of the water is ridiculous! Not sure I want to manage the driving that closely much less trust anyone else with it!
Fyi, we did not have the wedge down.

There's your only problem, like Chase said, you need it to run the heavy nose weight..
As far as the screws go...my 2 screw wedge failed while surfing, not sure if it was because we were surfing or what but if you can drill another hole and put better screws in I'd do it.

I am still considering shaving the chines down if I don't get the wake I want after loading it several different ways and would like any feedback that others can give.......

Does anyone know where to get the stronger screws for the old wedge? Or does anyone know what the specs are? The amount of revolutions per inch? Length? Strength rating? I remember reading something about an 8 strength rating?