so I wanted to do a little write up and some pics for the Ballast install on my V210... When I first posted the Install I got alot of emails and PM's from other Sanger owners who wanted to do the same. So hopefully this will help some people out.
Parts:
4 Attwood Tsunami 1100 pumps - WakeMakers
2 Fly High 350lb V drive Sacs - WakeMakers
20 feet of 3/4" Inner diameter Hose - Home Depot
4 3/4" through hull fittings - WakeMakers
2 Check valves - Home Depot
14 3/4" hose clamps - Home Depot
1 1" brass inlet through hull fitting - WakeMakers
1 1" Brass ball valve - Home Depot
1 1" to 3/4" Tee fitting - Local Plumbing Store
2 3/4" 45degree elbows - Local Plumbing Store
2 on/off/on Rocker switches - Radio Shack
14 guage power and ground wires - Radio Shack
6 Female Wire Ends (for rocker switches)- Home depot
1 bottle of Marine Goo Sealer - Home Depot
1 packet of plumbers tape on all threads
First off I chose Aerator pumps for the specific reason that they were cheaper and alot faster than using a Jabsco reversibles. just my personal preference.
Install:
on the Sanger V210, the only spot where I found that works for the a single inlet to use 2 pumps was on the port side between the V-drive and engine.
Before assembly, I applied plumbers tape on all threads for a tight leak free seal.
1. After measuring and allighning about 20 times, I used a 1" hole saw with a drill bit guide and drilled a 1" hole in the hull of the boat for the 1" inlet. Installed the throuh hull inlet and tighted the provided to secure the inlet in place. At this point I did not seal around the inlet yet untill I finished the assembly as there was alot of tighteting and turning of the assembly
2. Once the inlet was on, I attached the Ball Valved
3. After the ball Valved attached the Tee fitting
4. After the Tee Fitting, Attached the 45 degree elbows on each end so that the pumps can be directly attached. and out of the way for the V drive cover.
5. Once the 45 degree elbows were attached, I had to cut down the 3/4" threaded inlet tubes on the pumps so they can twist into the elbows without hitting anything. Once those were cut down short the install was like a glove.
6. Once completed, I applied the Marine Goo sealer on the outsde of the Hull around inlet as well as the inside of the hull around the inlet.
7. Measuring out how long the hose needed to be from the pumps to the top of the bag, I cut the specific length and attached the hose to the outlet of the Tsunami Pumps and secured with the hose clamps.
8. On the other end of the hose I simple slid the hose into the TOP of the bag inlet(really tight squeeze)and secured a hoseclamp over the threaded portion of the bag where the hose runs into. There is no quick connects, disconnects etc on the bag. The hose goes directly into the bag.
9. Once both sides were done the same, about 4" on the hose from the bag, I cut the hose and installed a Check Valve on each of the lines (make sure you have the right direction of flow. Secure the hose on each end of the check valve with hose clamps for a tight fit.
10. On the outside of the boat, I measured out where the water would exit, then using a 3/4" hole saw cut out 2 hole on each side. 1 for water exit, 1 for vent/overflow
11. Installed the through hull fittings.
12. For the Vent/Overflow, from the other top inlet/outlet of the bag, I attached the hose in the same fashion as the intake and secured with a hose clamp. No check valve on this. Other end of the hose to the through hull fitting.
13. Follow the above for opposite Side
14. For the draining of the bags, I simply inserted the intake of the tsunami pumps into the BOTTOM of the bag and secured the PVC by attaching a hose clamp onto the threaded portion of the bag over the PVC. Since the pumps are NOT self priming I wanted to make sure that drain pumps were directly attached to the bags. so that all the water gets drained.
15. Wiring was really simple. For Power of the intake pumps, I took 2 power wires, different colors, and electrical taped them together. Since the inlet pumps were right next to each other, I attached the power wires that I had taped together, 1 to each Brown wires on the pumps and ran them to the cockpit area where the switches were going to be installed and attached each power wire to each of the switches so that they look identicle on each one, so that each rocker turns on the pumps when you click up.
16. For Ground, I simple connected the two black wires from the pumps to make 1 wire and ran a single ground directly to the ground on the battery terminal.
17. for the Pumps that drain, I did the same, but had to run 2 individual power wires as the pumps were on opposite sides of each other.
18. Once that was completed, I ran a single Power wire from the Battery Terminal to the middle of the rocker that provides power to the switch. and for the second rocker I just spliced the power wire and ran a second very short wire to the second rocker. So when you click each rocker up, the bags fill, and when you click down, the bags empty.
FAQ:
Q: How/where did you run the wire.
A: All the wiring was ran on the starboard side of the boat. If you remove back cushion above the cooler/starboard side seat(2 screws if you lift the cooler seat) you have access to run all the wiring you need. I just simply ran all the wiring right above through where the fiberglass is and zip tied it to existing wiring that was there already. You cant see anything.
Q: My dash has no room for more switches, where did you install the rocker switches:
A. This is the problem I had, there was no where on my dash to install switches and you have to get creative. I actually installed my switches on the fiberglass/plastic platform under my seat. I just reach down and fill/empty. Its really clean and very easy to get all the wiring all under your seat to attach.
Q: Do I really need Check Valves?
A: YES I didnt install check valves from the beginning and found that when you fill and get going, the bags just empty right out the bottom. When I noticed this the first time when I tried it out.. so that day I had to fill the tanks and close the ball valve on the intake so they wouldnt drain. Now that the check valves are installed, the water doesnt drain out on its own. I believe that Wakemakers also sells a vented loop that prevents this. I just didnt want to spend another 20 bucks and shipping.
Q: How much did this whole thing cost you
A: More than I wanted to spend if I added up all the small parts. There was alot of trial and error elbows and fittings that I didnt end up using. If you go by my provided list. The whole thing shouldnt run more than $250.00-$300.00
Q: Was it worth it?
A: ABSOLUTLY. My wife hates riding with the ballast full and so do my kids. The wake gets too big for them. Manually filling bags and emptying was very messy and very time consuming. Especially when you everyone takes turns and friends and myself wanted tanks full, wife doesnt and kids cannot at this point. With the 1100GPH pumps the tanks fill and empty in about 2 minutes. Enough for someone to get themselves ready to ride.
Q: After the bags are full, do you lose all your storage in the V drive compartments?
A: No not at all, we still have plenty of space to throw vests, ropes, helmets, etc.. with a crew of 6 riders. Lots of storage still left.
Hope this helps:
Pics:
Linear Mode
