New stereo

So first with the old stereo set of rev 10's running off a bridged syn 4,JL12w6v3 (sealed box)running off a JL 750/1 hd,4 fosgate punch series 6.5" running off a JL360/4 & a wetsounds 420sq. Picking up the new boat this weekend and want to keep the basics the same as far as rev 10's and 12w6v3 going with the fosgates power series 6.5"(2pairs) and a 420sq bt. The revs are 400w rms,the sub is 600w rms,and the 6.5" are 70w rms. looking for best amp configuration to maximize this setup. Thinking I can get away with 2 amps but want it to be efficient. No head unit if that matters. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm a lil nervous r about going with cheaper amps as far as longevity,heat,and efficiency goes plus real power is s concern as with jl I don't gotta worry about that. Thanks in advance

What about a M1000/5 running your 6.5s on the 4 100 watt channels, and the rev 10s on the 600 watt channel. And a mhd 750/1 running the 12w6?

AFAIK, the rev10s are 300w RMS and are very well powered by a true 300 watts. I think it would be a waste to push more than that to them, but there might be some wetsounds gurus that know better.

If you want more than 300 watts to your rev10s, I think you might be stuck with three amps.

If you want the very best amplifiers for that speaker set-up, I would run an HD750/1 to the tower, an HD750/1 to the sub, and an XD400/4 to the four in-boat coaxials (or the marine equivalent models).
In a two amplifier set-up, you could run an XD1000/5 to the sub and in-boats with an HD750/1 to the tower.

As a side note, 600 watts from an XD amplifier is a perfect fit for a 10W6. Despite the 600 watt power rating on the 12W6, and even though the 12" has more efficiency, I feel the HD750/1 is a perfect fit for the larger 12W6.

^i agree David. Just wanted to know options. Plus the 750/1's are stackable. But the 750/1 over the syn4 huh?

That amp is discontinued?

I'm also open too different in boats in the 75-100w range. Looking for best bang for my buck as far as clean sound.

Originally Posted by Redheadd

That amp is discontinued?

Yes, but Wetsounds has a new Class D direct replacement, for the Syn4, and it would be a another great choice for the tower.

As for the HD750/1, it's strictly regulated so it will deliver its full power at any reasonable supply voltage. In contrast, an unregulated amplifier will typically drop 25% of its 14.4v rated power with a 12.5V supply.

The SYN series is now the SYN DX. This is a completely new series based on our technology in our Sinister Series. They are full range class D and completely sealed. Smaller chassis, tons of power and 100% sealed.

For your set up. I would run a SYN-DX-6 on the REV 10 and sub. This gives you 400x2 on the REV 10 and 600x1 on the sub. Then a SYN DX4 on the in boats for 125x4. Thats perfect power for your set up.

Now you can take it to the highest level and do Two Sinister amps. One SD-2 for the REV 10 for 400x2 with the ability to add a second pair later. And one SD-6 for the in boats on 1-4 for 185x4 and 585x1 on the sub. Tons of power on a two amp set up.

Tim
Wet Sounds

On that dx6 will it deliver 600w rms on 12.5v? And does it run hot?

Originally Posted by Redheadd

On that dx6 will it deliver 600w rms on 12.5v? And does it run hot?

The new Wetsounds is Class D, so it's more efficient than the previous Syn series. So "NO", heat won't be a problem.
For 1000 watts of draw a Class AB amplifier heatsink must dissipate 500 watts of heat. But only 200 watts of dissipation for a Class D drawing the same. So a Class D amplifier of the same 'output' power could be built with only 25% of the heatsink mass. Some Class D amplifiers seem to be in a race to be the tinniest. But Wetsounds is not skimping on the heatsink & chassis size....equals very good thermal performance.

Any suggestions on in boat speakers David? I've had polk they were a little to bright for me. The disgusted I've been running I like a lot but want a lil more power so....and I'm trying to stay under $200 a pair

Originally Posted by Redheadd

Any suggestions on in boat speakers David? I've had polk they were a little to bright for me. The disgusted I've been running I like a lot but want a lil more power so....and I'm trying to stay under $200 a pair

I'm a bit surprised that you thought Polk Audio speakers were bright because their texture is usually on the neutral or warmer side, especially any of the models with textile domes. However, speaker location and other factors can have an impact. For example, speakers that are mounted atop the dash and that reflect off the windshield is never complimentary to any speaker.
The newest RF speakers are actually pretty decent.
For the most neutral and musical 6.5" coaxial speaker, I like the JL Audio MX650s. Great on vocals, very revealing in the mids, smooth, and no false emphasis. Just the way the music was played, mixed and recorded. And they fit in the under $200 a pair bracket.

Isn't the jl hd 750/1 a class d (used for subs only)? How does it power hlcd's properly?

Tim, I'm glad I came across your post, it just sold me on picking up a SYN DX6, as I'm wanting to power 2 REV10s and a sub like the OP. I was literally about to order a Syn DX4 and then a separate sub amp but was trying to avoid having 3 amps in my system (in boats are on HT-4). I like the single amp solution for the towers and subs a lot better. Thanks for sharing your knowledge/opinions

Originally Posted by Redheadd

Isn't the jl hd 750/1 a class d (used for subs only)? How does it power hlcd's properly?

Virtually every modern marine audio amplifier is Class D now. All are high speed analog switching and all have passive 1st order output filters to remove switching artifacts from the audible bandwidth. The only question is how high they switch and where they filter. The JL Audio HD750/1 is wide range and not subwoofer-only. It tests nearly flat out beyond what you will hear from any tower HLCD speaker. If you can hear the high frequency limitation of this amplifier on an HLCD then you are a 12 year old girl. Tons of boat owners use this amplifier on the tower and love it.

But it's not the only good choice.

"For your set up. I would run a SYN-DX-6 on the REV 10 and sub. This gives you 400x2 on the REV 10 and 600x1 on the sub. Then a SYN DX4 on the in boats for 125x4. Thats perfect power for your set up."

^^^This is an outstanding configuration. However, I might switch it around and run the sub and four in-boats off the DX-6 and run the Rev10s off the DX-4. This way the DX-6 isn't bearing the major thermal load with every channel loaded down to the minimum. With this distribution the hardest job and easiest job is shared by one chassis.

^^ sounds like a great setup. Red what boat you go with?

98' sport nautique w/gt40 and 300 hours...super clean 14k😉

could you just get 2 sd-6, one for the inboats and sub, then have room to add another set of rev 10s is you wanted?

Hey David I've read a **** ton of info on the jl 6.5",including some you e written but am having trouble finding direct comparisons between the m and mx series. My set up will be the same as above as I ripped it out of my old boat. So I'll be pushing them with a jl jx360/4. What would your thoughts on these 2 speakers? Thanks

Originally Posted by Redheadd

Hey David I've read a **** ton of info on the jl 6.5",including some you e written but am having trouble finding direct comparisons between the m and mx series. My set up will be the same as above as I ripped it out of my old boat. So I'll be pushing them with a jl jx360/4. What would your thoughts on these 2 speakers? Thanks

IMO, The JL Audio MX650 is perfection as it does everything as well as a 6.5" coaxial possibly can. I don't see the justification for going with the M650 unless you feel that a bit more power handling is beneficial. Here's the differences. The MX650 uses a 0.75" soft dome with a 2nd order highpass crossover. The tweeter and midbass are in perfect balance and provide the most seemless transition you will find. The MX650 truly sounds like a single coherent speaker with no audible clue as to where the midbass stops and the tweeter starts. Heaven on vocals. The M650 has a larger 1" dome. The larger dome makes a big difference between the MX and M series in the 770 size, and is essential in the 770 size IMO, but not in the smaller 650 size. On the flipside, the M650 actually measures slightly smaller on the midbass driver. Check the difference in total O.D. So on balance, in a smaller 6.5" coaxial, I prefer the slightly larger midbass driver with the slightly smaller tweeter.

Thank you sir

David those Jl xm650's are amazing huge upgrade! Another question I have my 12w6v3 in the proper sealed enclosure. Unfortunately on a 98' sport nautique my mounting options are very limited to say the least. So I opted behind the driver seat facing toward the hull,about 9" of clearance from the face of the sub. I tried every direction this was the best. But I'm thinking I got a lot of room there to easily put a ported box on jl website they have a diagram with the sub on the ported "end" of the box. But with my space is have it in the longest side,if firing to the hull. So should I move the port also or can I leave the port on the end. I'm not sure how ported boxes work really. I'm trying to build the box 1 time. Lol. Also in a percentage how much more does ported put out? My amp rack came out nice though. 😉

Red,
A ported system (bass-reflex) is a resonator like blowing across the top of a pop bottle. Same basic principle but just with a separate source (woofer driver) and port versus a single opening like a bottle. The port does most of the work at the tuning frequency with a gradual declining contribution for an octave up from the tuning frequency. At that point the direct-radiating woofer driver has gradually taken over and does most of the work up to the lowpass crossover point. As part of the design, the output of the port is delayed in time enough so that the port radiation is essentially in-polarity with the woofer radiation. The port serves to augment the output and lower the bass extension prior to a steep roll-off below the tuning frequency. Much below the tuning frequency, the woofer is basically unloaded (an acoustic short circuit). It all works together very well, with good sound quality, if all of the design and build is done correctly. How the ported enclosure is integrated into the boat is another important factor. And this is an area where I usually see major mistakes being made. Your JL Audio dealer should be able to give you the 'Do & Don't' guidelines.

Ya was gonna call the tech line also. Just like to get as many opinions