2006 21V starting problem

So, I have switched out my batteries (to 2-Optima Blue Tops), added a 2 bank battery charger and then switched out the ignition switch and I am still having trouble starting my boat. If i turn the key on it just clicks. If i turn the key on, then off, about 6-7 times, it will finally start. Any suggestions on what the problem could be? Thanks in advance

Sounds like a starter problem to me.

Yep sounds like starter solenoid or a connection issue. Check all cables for clean and tight connections. Next time it just clicks, take a jumper box and put power right at the solenoid and if it clicks its most likely bad. If it engages, then you have a power drop somewhere along the line.

(Message edited by wake upppp on February 10, 2010)

(Message edited by wake upppp on February 10, 2010)

(Message edited by wake upppp on February 10, 2010)

starter relay or a bad ground

always charge the new battery's slow overnight

You can also jump the solenoid to determine if it's a power drop or bad solenoid. Take a long screwdriver and make contact between the two large leads on the solenoid. If it cranks its the solenoid, if clicks: power drop from bad connections, old corroded cables (not likely your issue) or a low battery.

^^^^ NEVER EVER DO THIS ON A BOAT!!!!!

You always will have gas fumes in a boat, that one spark could be the last thing you ever did in life

use the right tools

also every boat today uses relays and not like the old starter's in cars

ok. You sure he couldn't just open the engine bay and let it air out?

And since you're on a post frenzy, what are the right tools?

right tools is a volt meter to check grounds and 12v to relay

then you swap the fuel pump relay with it and if she turns over then you know it was just the relay

K.I.S.S., that is all you need

Safety first, i have seen somebody blow there freaking hatch off like this and look like Mr Jackson

Bad connections can be hard to find. I like to work from both ends. Because I'm in salt the issues are greater than they may be for you. Perko switches go fritzy, cables rot in the middle etc. Not always easy to find. And remember guys.. Perko switches do go bad.

A battery load tester, cheap from harbor freight or a loaner from NAPA can really help finding cranking issues in minutes.
Start at the batteries and load test; all groovy? good.

next go straight to the starter terminals with the load tester again. The results should be the same. If it still reads good then your starter is bad or you have an 8 cylinder aquarium. Or "blowed up" up as they say in NASCAR.

If you have a failed load test at the starter but good at the batteries then go to the back of the selector switch and load each terminal. With each step you are getting closer. You have now narrowed it down to two ring terminals and a single cable.

I have been impressed with this forum in general when it comes to basic DC electric. You guys seem a little sharper than the fishing crowd.
This should be easy.

Good luck. I hope this makes your job a little less painful.

(Message edited by baitkiller on February 16, 2010)

thanks for all the help. I will take the load tester and check all the connections.

you can download a free factory manual from iboats

i would do that

it tells you step by step how to check starting system

"You always have gas fumes in a boat". Utter nonsense. Where do you get this stuff? I have to laugh.

vent line

most newer boats have them built into the filler now, which do leak, unlike a true vent

carb motors always will have gas fumes in compartment

gas fumes will always be present when filling up

go lift the hatch and tell me if you smell a faint smell of gas fumes

you will have it

Did you check your safety lanyard? I was having the same problem and checked everything and then I noticed the lanyard was halfway off. Started right up after that.

safety lanyard just kills spark and fuel pump on mercs

Nope, no hint of gas smell whatsoever. Only normal place you'll pick up a smell of fuel on my boat is where the tank vent comes out up front by the windshield. Anywhere else would not be a normal condition.

so you just contradicted yourself then, LOL
im not arguing with you

you just said you have gas fumes by the window

Gas fumes will find it way to the lowest part of bilge, because gas fumes are heavier than air

thats why it is always a good idea to run the blower the whole time your boating, just in case a fuel leak occurs

Nice try. You said lift the engine cover and I did and no smell. Quit giving bogus info man. Now you want me to believe the fumes that come out the outside of the boat are going to go up and in and down into the bilge? Those are some pretty smart fumes!

(Message edited by wake_upppp on February 16, 2010)

If you smoke, you will never smell fumes'

just keep up what you do and i will do the same

Bartender! two Patron doubles over ice..

Let an expert settle this.

If perhaps one would desire to trouble shoot a slow cranking problem by placing a screwdriver across the battery and motor terminals of a starter that happens to be installed on a boat I suggest the following:

Open the engine box.

Strike and flick a lit match into the bilge.

If the boat explodes, do not proceed with the screwdriver test.


If the boat does not explode then you are free to troubleshoot (albeit in caveman fashion) to your hearts content.

Bartender! Make that three Patrons on ice!

"If you smoke, you will never smell fumes". Where on gods green eaarth do you get this stuff? I think you're the one smokin'. Puff, puff, pass captain herbalife!

i do not smoke, gave that up 16 years ago

if you smoke cigs, your sense of smell gets ruined big time. ask any doctor

and its not GOD's earth, its mother natures earth, lol

Y'all are gonna get this sent to the bilge or whatever manifestation this site has resembling the bilge.

Now sit down, shut up and drink yer tequila.