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Old     (ord27)      Join Date: Oct 2005       07-20-2011, 4:57 PM Reply   
I took my 2006 F250 in for a detailing. When I drove it home, I noticed that the check engine light was on. I took it by the dealership. It was right at closing time so I only was able to talk with a mechanic. He said that a sensor might have gotten wet, resulting in the light coming on. He seemed to think that after 50 miles, the computer would start another cycle, and the light would go off. It didn't.

I drove to Tyler and back, 250 miles, and it was still on. This morning I took it to a local 1 man mechanic shop. He hooked it to his computer and found 2 codes indicating that there is a problem with the EGR system. He cleared the codes and the light went off. He said that the codes could have been a result of the sensor getting wet.

I drove off and didn't get a check engine light the rest of that outing.

The mechanic said if it came back on, I could drive it for awhile with no worries. He said that I would just have to keep an eye on performance and over heating.

The light came back on.

question for you diesel guys

If I am not having any heating ,smoking or performance issues, can I ignore it for a month or 2....or 3?

when I do address it, do I have to replace the cooler and the valve, or can I just replace the valve.

I know that some are going to say use the EGR delete, but I decided not to go that route.

the truck just now rolled to 98,000 miles. I have never had any issues until now.....and now it's just a light

thanks
Old     (Khemosahbe)      Join Date: Jul 2010       07-20-2011, 5:28 PM Reply   
If it's throwing an EGR code it's probably the valve and not the cooler. The valve gets very caked up with soot, you may be able to take it out and clean it and have it work, or it may need to be replaced. If the cooler goes bad it doesn't throw codes, it just dumps coolant into your intake.

All that said, you should just do the EGR delete
Old     (OUMX117)      Join Date: Nov 2010       07-21-2011, 7:14 AM Reply   
If it were my truck what I'd do would be to do a full EGR delete kit and add a coolant filtration system. Also change out the crap ford motorcraft coolant for some ELC coolant that is silica free. One thing you must do at the same time is replace your oil cooler also because this is the root of the problem. What happens is the crappy Ford coolant generates deposits over time and these deposits get lodged in your oil cooler (lots of very small passageways). Once the oil cooler gets mostly blocked it cuts off coolant flow to the EGR cooler. When the EGR cooler is allowed to run nearly dry it boils what little coolant is left in the cooler which causes it to crack. At this point the additional coolant is now allowed to flow into the intake system and into the cylinders. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressures and leads to stretched head bolts, blown head gaskets, warped cylinder heads, etc. Its a bit of an investment to do all this work at once, but if you take care of this now you'll have a good running truck for many years to come. If you want any more info I can get you pointed in the right direction. pm me
Old     (ord27)      Join Date: Oct 2005       07-21-2011, 10:06 AM Reply   
Paul, what are the down sides to the EGR delete?
Will the check engine light always be on? Will it pass inspection?
How soon do I need to address this issue? I sold my other car, so the truck is now my daily driver.
thanks for the responses
Old     (OUMX117)      Join Date: Nov 2010       07-21-2011, 10:29 AM Reply   
The downsides to the EGR delete are only that the truck will not pass an emmissions inspection. Depending on where you live this may or may not be a problem. If you need to retain the functionality of the EGR system I'd recommend going with a Bulletproof EGR cooler (http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/21.htm) in lieu of a full EGR delete. Either way you need to replace your coolant and your oil cooler.
Old     (OUMX117)      Join Date: Nov 2010       07-21-2011, 10:32 AM Reply   
And since your truck is an 06 you will have a check engine light if you do the full delete, unless you get a tuner (get one, you'll get bettermileage and have more power) to program the egr code out. Either way you need to address the issue soon because if you let it go too long you will end up replacing head gaskets, and the cab of the truck must be removed to do that so you'll be looking at some serious $ if you wait too long. If you have an Edge programmer you can monitor your coolant temperature and you oil temperatures. if the difference between these two values is ever mroe than 10*F you will have a problem in the near future.
Old     (dave27)      Join Date: May 2005       07-21-2011, 1:35 PM Reply   
I feel good about my 7.3 diesel, thanks
Old     (OUMX117)      Join Date: Nov 2010       07-21-2011, 1:43 PM Reply   
^ I loved my 7.3 too. It was nice not having to worry about all the emissions crap. You can blame the EPA for that one. However, I absolutely love the way a 6.0 drives compared to the 7.3. The 5 speed automatic is light years ahead of the orl 4R100 tranny, the 6.0 makes a good bit more power (stock and chipped). not to mention the 7.3 is noisier than the 6.0 too. They both have their advantages and disadvantages. Both motors can run past 300k miles easily if you take care of them properly.
Old     (ord27)      Join Date: Oct 2005       07-25-2011, 7:45 PM Reply   
I looked at the bulletproofdeisel.com web site and found a local installer of their product. The mechanic pulled the EGR valve and found it to be dry, with some build up, and stuck open. he recommended that I just replace the valve this time instead of doing any of the Bulletproof up grades. He charged me $370 total for parts and labor.
I feel pretty good about the whole ordeal. I feel like I found and honest diesel mechanic. He seems to think that I should be able to get over 400,000 miles on my truck. He did indicate that the EGR system would fail at some point, but thought that I didn't need to address the upgrades yet.
Old     (OUMX117)      Join Date: Nov 2010       07-26-2011, 8:18 AM Reply   
That's good to hear. I would get an Edge insight for your truck though. That is the best way to make sure everything is still working as it should. Keep a close eye on the oil temps and the coolant temp. if these ever get more than 10* apart you are about to have a big (read: expensive) problem. Much cheaper to fix it at the first sign of a problem, and the Edge gives you the early warning signs that you need. Just an opinion, but I am in the market for a new (to me, can't see spending $60k on a brand new one) diesel, and I will most likely end up with a 6.0.
Old     (2tuff)      Join Date: Mar 2010       07-26-2011, 9:03 AM Reply   
I put the Sinister EGR cooler delete on mine. I don't have to deal with emission testing where I live, but if I did you would have to climb up and actually look down through the intake to see the cooler is gone. I left the stock EGR bolted in place and plugged in. It looks stock, and as far as the computer is concerned is stock, as the valve is still there, opening and closing like it's suppose to - but there is no exhaust gases going through it

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