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Old     (xstarrider)      Join Date: Jun 2007       04-06-2011, 1:46 PM Reply   
Did a search and couldnt find the link. I remember someone doing it. Looking for options to keep the hatch locked down when we tow without having the ram in place. Was going to install 2 gas shocks instead making it a manual h

atch to free up the space in therear locker as my 750 bag puts tons of stress on that ram.

Anyone have an idea on the length of the shocks to be used?
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-06-2011, 2:10 PM Reply   
I just did this on my 230 VRS. FWIW it's not a "Hydraulic ram" it's a motorized actuator.
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-06-2011, 2:12 PM Reply   
Here are the pics in case you don't have/want a teamtalk account
Attached Images
Old     (xstarrider)      Join Date: Jun 2007       04-06-2011, 8:36 PM Reply   
Jeff thanks. I actually did a search their first. Swatguy is my id over there. When u used th gas shocks did u reinforce behind that lip at all?
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-07-2011, 7:20 AM Reply   
I didn't reinforce anything because it would have required major surgery to do so. The sundeck appears to be made of a 3/4" light gauge aluminum honeycomb structure sandwiched between two 1/16-3/32" thick layers of aluminum. This hypothesis about the construction is based on the relatively light weight of the deck combined with what I can see through the existing holes. Also when I drilled through it I could feel the layers.

The factory attachment bolts engage some nutserts that apparently are put in from the top (i.e. under the vinyl and foam). Duplicating this setup wouldn't be possible without removing the upholstery and foam. So, I just drilled and used SS sheet metal screws. If/when I have to reupholster the sundeck I will have the opportunity to inspect the way it was done at the factory and possibly duplicate it for better strength but so far I haven't had any problems with them attached with the sheet metal screws.
Old     (xstarrider)      Join Date: Jun 2007       04-07-2011, 10:23 AM Reply   
Yea the bolts for the actuator are ancored through the top. I am actually in the process of re-upholstering the deck. That is one of the main reasons for doing this now. I was more curious about where u attach shock's plate to the fiberglass. Its such a thin lip to screw into. Was thinking of possibly using a stainless backing plate possibly. Tha.ks again for the great write up with the parts. Makes it much easier for me. Do happen to recall the measurement you used on the sundeck to determine the position to anchor the shock from the rear edge. I don't have a factory shock on my other side like some boats so I have to put both on.................which leaves message nowhere to reference from. Thanks again for you help
Old     (xstarrider)      Join Date: Jun 2007       04-07-2011, 10:35 AM Reply   
Also sent you pm on the parts u have left over.
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-07-2011, 11:55 AM Reply   
I read the PM before this. So, you'd actually need a pair of ball studs and a pair of the brackets if you don't have the factory gas spring setup on the starboard side.

I can't recall the measurements because I just duplicated the factory setup on the port side. There was no reinforcement on the lower ball stud with the factory setup so I just did the same thing on the other side. It's just a hole drilled right in the corner of the fiberglass lip. The ball stud sticks through it and there's a washer and nut on the other side. The fiberglass on the lip was relatively thick. It wouldn't hurt to reinforce it but since MasterCraft didn't do it I didn't bother. The 205V of that vintage comes from the factory with a similar setup to what I did and that was the source for some of my parts. The "keeper" is the key part from MasterCraft. The rest of it can be bought at various online places or made relatively easily.

I can measure and take a picture of the lower ball stud setup tonight if you like. I'm not sure how the measurements will compare to yours though since our sundecks probably have different dimensions. You could probably just mount the lower ball studs, pop the springs on and mark the top bracket location based on where they fall with the springs extended and the deck raised.

Thus far I'm happy that I opted to go this route rather than repair/replace the actuator. There was a little bit of bling factor with the actuator but it was a lot more trouble than it was worth. I now can access the port side of the engine by simply dropping the partition instead of having to unplug the actuator, remove the two pins and lug that heavy thing out of there. Also, when I put my 750s back there (When finances permit) I won't have to worry about interference with the actuator.

Last edited by Jeff; 04-07-2011 at 11:57 AM.
Old    sperbet            04-07-2011, 12:04 PM Reply   
nice project. Did the brackets that the shocks are attached to, and the latch come from MC? I'd like to do this to my old supersport and am just curious where all the parts came from. I'd assume you can get the gas shocks from a lot of places. Thanks!
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-07-2011, 12:14 PM Reply   
The brackets and ballstuds are pretty standard items that generally can be found at the same places that sell the gas springs. The latch can be had from MC but they are also available on eBay and what not. The only thing that I couldn't find anywhere accept from MasterCraft was that "keeper" that holds the strap up above the deck. Without it I would imagine the strap would end up stuck below the deck often. The whole setup was about $100 which seems like more than it should have cost.
Old     (etakk7)      Join Date: Apr 2006       04-14-2011, 7:56 AM Reply   
So that is a 2000 205V? Interesting, my sunpad on my 2000 is straight across, the backrest of the rear bench seat has the cutout for the pylon. Cool project, been thinking about for awhile myself. I have used 750's in the rear lockers for years without an issue to the actuator. I did relocate it a few inches further in to avoid as much interference. The reason I've been considering the project is for the inevitable day that my actuator fails and the pad is closed.
Old     (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-14-2011, 8:54 AM Reply   
Originally Posted by etakk7 View Post
So that is a 2000 205V?
No, it's a 2000 230VRS with a latch from a '99 205V (Actually it's found on a lot of boats, even some Bayliners IIRC). If you look at the teamtalk thread someone did post pics of a 205V sundeck setup and that's where I got the "inspiration" on how to setup my 230VRS.


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