2000 super air ballast

Yeah we got a new 2000 super air and the ballasts seem to fill real slow. I feel like i am wasting gas driving to just get them filled up. I understand that for 2000 there is only one pump for 2 tanks. (2002's and on: each tank has its own pump) my question is what is the best way to fill this type of ballast? sitting still? moving? anyways It takes so long to fill it I am thinking bout just leaving it full and putting it back on the lift for next time. but with gas prices this high Im torn.

If it is not a force flow, and has a pump, you should not be driving. IF the inflows are in the back, when you drive it will create air pockets. I am suprised that it fills at all.

It should have a force flow and a pump (my 2000 Pro Air does). It'll fill slowly with just the pump, but will speed up when moving. Without the pump, it'll fill while moving. I let mine fill when heading out to the riding area and while sitting during first rider getting prepared. By that time, it's almost full.

It's not as fast as the new systems, but does eventually get full and then continues to pour out the overflow holes (should be in the back), so you don't have to worry about overfilling and burning up pumps.

Sorry, I only have experience with MC ballast systems. It sounded about the same though.

I took my 2001 san ballast system and cut the two pumps apart, redirected one pump to fill the port side tank, the other to empty the port side tank. I then added two more 750s to the system, fill / empty on the starboard side. The two rear hard tanks fill up in 5 minutes or so, moving. The fill pumps have to get there prime, and moving forward helps. Also, remember to leave the air valves open etc. Since I redirected my ballast pumps, I leave the air release switches open all the time. If I want to stop filling the tanks, I just close the manual valve. etc. I would highly recommend splitting up the current system. I was very slow and aggravating to wait on one pump to fill both tanks....

Mike
2001 san

I don't have any problems with 2000 SAN. It fills up and stays full until I put it on the trailer. Then gravity takes over to drain. I usually blow through the vent hole to make it begin or it sometimes vapor locks. I did replace the drain pump today and haven't considered ever spliting them. Good idea.

The only reason I use the empty pump it when I want to cruise around. I have to pump out all the water and then shut off the cock in front of the moter or it will fill up again even without the fill pump on.

coo coo I appreciate the help fellas. When we got the boat we had the dealer put in a new pump bc when we test drove it we tried everything. It would fill but not empty so we had a new one installed. Mike D: how would i go about doing the split pump thing on mine.

Bruce, you shouldn't have to close the petcock in front of the engine to keep the water from coming in, just close your two knobs behind the drivers seat after the empty pump runs. (FYI - knobs screwed OUT closes, knobs screwed IN, opens) I have left the petcock open on my boat since the day I brought it home. I guess if you want to keep it "absolutely" dry, you can close the petcock. Also, yes, the 2000 Super Air does fill and drain a little slow, but the end result is a super cool wake

CAUTION. VERY LONG , read at your own risk.

James,
open your hatch and look down on the portside. You will see two pumps connected to each other, one fills the two tanks, thru the empty pump, and vice versa, the empty pump, empties thru the fill pump and out the scupper.???? I still dont know why they did this??
You will need two more pumps, go to walmart, 18.00 for 750 attwoods. 3/4 hose, black spiral type. hose clamps, a 3/4 tee with threads on all three holes. 3/4 tees to tee into your rear thruhulls, the ones with the check valves to them. Band aids for knuckles, advil for when you throw your back out when tightning hose clamps upside down.

Lets start portside. the two pumps will need to be cut apart from each other, leave the wiring intact,this will be your fill / empty for the port side tank. take the 3/4 hose and direct it into the top of the hardtank. take the drain hose from the tank and connect it to the empty pump, you will need to take the elbow off and reverse in on the fill side so you can drain into the pump. Confused yet.. take more 3/4 hose and run it from the exit port on the empty pump and connect it to the thru hull. Portside fill/empty is complete. Leave the small air line alone, it will be used.

Starboard side is where you need to be a contortionist. Take your threaded 3/4 tee and screw in a 750 attwood pump on one end. Take a 3/4 threaded adaptor and screw them into the other holes. Look down at the scupper thru hull, you will disconnect the hose to it and connect it to the tee..center thread. Take the hose that ran to the original fill pump and connect it to the end of the tee. Your tee will be next to the manual on/off seacock, its tight, but it works. Run 3/4 hose from the pump empty port to the top of the starboard tank. Disconnect the line with the check valve to the thru hull to the tank, this is where the fill line will go. Take the other attwood and connect it to the empty hose from the starboard tank, get the metal bracket to hold the pump low on the gunnel. Like the opposite side pumps. Run the empty port of the pump to the starboard thruhull. Your allmost done, take the wires and buy some single throw switches, wire them in on the helm, or use some existing switches which are not being used, shower, etc. Tighten all hose clamps and make sure the pumps are wired in correctly. your done. You will have to move forward to prime the fill pumps, but once you do, since they are on the scupper, the tanks fill in like 5 minutes. water will come out of the thru hull, and when you empty, they will empty out each thru hull, starboard/ portside. whew....
I will get some pic's this weekend if it will help. I dont think I have written this much since college.

Yes, please some photos or a diagram would be helpful.

Thanks.