Input on amp for power 2x Pro80s

I've got some Pro80s on the way to replace the stock Sony 6.5" speakers on our tower ... I'm going to try it out, but am assuming my current Kicker 550.3 amp won't cut it for the new speakers.

I would like to find an amp I can buy now to power the Pro80s for a year or two, and then eventually re-purpose for my in boat speakers (4x of these).

.... the catch is I'm a cheap SOB. Looking at this amp - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-GM-D8604.html -
assuming they're not completely off on the numbers it looks like I can bridge it and get 300w rms to the pro80s, and then down the road should be able to get enough juice to 4x in boat speakers.

Thoughts on this amp, or any other <$200 amp recommendations you guys might have?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PI-P900.4.html

I have two of them in my boat one for a pair of REV10's and one for my inboats. Look them up a lot of people run them. But they will not work to run a Sub

But they will not work to run a Sub

Sorry if this is a stupid question (I'm clueless on this stuff), but why wouldn't it work if I bridged the "Front Channel" they have and run with what they call a BPF (I assume low pass filter they're calling bass pass filter). Front runs my sub @ 450w and then the rear does a full range to the pro80s at 145w each.

Thanks for the input!

you could run it that way if your woofer is a 4 ohm. Also, 145W is not much for an 8" HLCD

I would like to avoid two amps if possible.... but if I can't oh well.

Would I be better off keeping my existing 550.3 Kicker amp, throwing the in boat speakers on that (currently powered off head unit) + sub, then running the P900 listed bridged to be two channel and power the two Pro80s with 450w each? Do I risk damaging them at that point?

I think the PPI 900 is really more like 300w each channel bridged which is still more than enough.

I tried running my second PPI like you are talking about with the inboats running off two channels and a sub running off the bridged other 2 channels. The low pass filter still let voices come through. So the sub didn't sound very good.

And since I'm a cheap SOB to I bought this as a third amp to run my sub and its been fine for 2 years.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...RZ1-1500D.html

Remember none of these amps are marine amps so you are running that risk.

Originally Posted by sidekicknicholas

I would like to avoid two amps if possible.... but if I can't oh well.

Would I be better off keeping my existing 550.3 Kicker amp, throwing the in boat speakers on that (currently powered off head unit) + sub, then running the P900 listed bridged to be two channel and power the two Pro80s with 450w each? Do I risk damaging them at that point?

Now knowing the in-boats are still on the head-unit, this is the way to go. That 3 chnl is ideal for a woofer and a couple pair of in-boats and then a dedicated amp for the tower speakers.

Just bridge and tune the 900.4 properly and you wont have an issue with its 450W rms potential.

Not that it matters but the 900.4 bridged is 300w

The advertised spec is 450 x 2 @ 4 ohm http://precisionpower.com/product/p900-4/ and I believe its been found to actually make its stated power. And it might matter if one was setting the gain with a volt meter.

This is where I was getting my information, Sonic says at 12v it is 300w bridged.

Tigemike I know you know a lot more about this stuff. I just want to clear up why I was stating those facts.

Lets assume it is the higher 450w+ .... do I risk damaging the speakers if it isn't tuned properly - because safe bet is I will not tune it properly.

You can always turn the gain down.

If you look at the lines above those 12.5V specs, you see the stated 450 I was referring to, which is measured at 14.5V. The 300W @ 12.5 is right target for the expected drop between the engine running alternator output to engine off static battery voltage. Thats why I originally stated that the 450W potential is not a concern when set up and tuned properly. We also know that a supply voltage at the amp of 14.5, is likely unrealistic. So again, the potential of 450W rms is not an issue.

Neither spec is incorrect, just measured at different voltage levels. I think it was Pasmag that tested it and found it to deliver its advertised spec. If this amp was setup with the assumption that 300W was the RMS and it was tuned with a higher than 12.5 static, battery, it can make a difference. You will also find a number of manufacturers do not list but the one 14.5v spec. Others like to advertise the peak wattage and just dont be clear about it.

That gives me the warm fuzzy I need.

Looks like the PPI is what I'll be going with.

Thanks everyone!

Put the PPI in tonight, sounds great! Right now I just have it on two regular channels (not bridged) .... the other two are bridged and powering my sub.

Thanks for the input!

good deal !!!!