So, thankfully this happened at the end of a week long trip to Tulloch but as I was pulling into the launch area and the boat died. I was running about 25mph or 2700 rpm for about 10 mins, engine was warm (normal), all other gauges and sounds were normal. I came off plane to idle speed and the boat lugged, idle dropped to <200 to where it wouldn't run and then died. I restarted in neutral and reved to about 1500 rpm and the boat was fine but once back to normal idle it died again. This happened twice and I limped into the ramp and trailer. <BR> <BR>The boat is a 93 Ski. Carborated 351 with 384 hours. <BR> <BR>Thoughts? <BR> <BR>Thanks in advance. BTW, a pic from the trip for good measure! <BR> <BR>T <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/615265.jpg" alt="Upload">

Check your throtle cable adjustment. being carburated if the cable is out of adjustment it will allow it to idle to low.

trevor, sounds lame but did you run out of fuel? cant trust a fuel gage even in a brand new boat. it sounds classic no fuel when you come off plane the little fuel you had that is toward the rear of the tank slosh's forward and she dies. <BR> <BR>next thought is could the choke be stuck open?

Hey Bryan - Understood, it does have fuel. I've burned 5 tanks and have become used to the gauge and the 'actual' fuel level. I thought it might be sloshing fuel but I couldn't restart even after a minute or two without keeping revs up. <BR> <BR>I'll check the choke next. <BR> <BR>T

David - I'll check the cable too. Is it possible that it went out of adjustment just like that? Ran about 25+ hours during the week and then just easing off, would that cause it? <BR> <BR>Thanks <BR> <BR>T

fuel filter been changed? ever had a carb rebuild? <BR> <BR>doesn't sound like it's getting fuel.

it may be the power valve in the carb. is it running rich and when it boggs down at idle you can rev it up to keep it from dying? <BR> <BR>A carb rebuild kit goes for $40. Maybe it is time to rebuild the carb. If you can run wide open with no issue, I would doubt you have any trouble whith the fuel filter or pump.

could it be water fuel seperater? water in the tank?

Cables can strech or the linkage can get loose. If you can give it a little throttle and keep it running then that is were I would look first. While it is running see how low you can get your RPM's down before it dies. Do you still have top speed as well alot of time if its a cable adjustment you will also loose your top RPM as well.

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem like other have mentioned, rebuild or mabye fuel filter. Reason its running in nuetral is because theres no load on the motor till you put it in gear, witch requires more fuel for the engine to run.

check your fuel system, from your tank up to your fuel water sep, and fuel pump up to your carb. Make sure theres no blockage. What type of carb do you have? Holley 4 barrel? How handy are you around a motors <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/615402.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR> <BR>If you can get your hands on a tachometer, not the type on your dash but an aftermarket one that is more precise or if you got some skills do it by ear and feel. Ideally for that motor i think idle is between 600-650 rpms <BR> <BR>Start the motor up. First unscrew the screw in the red circle to the point where it is just barely touching the throttle plate in front of it. Then make 2 full turns of the screw towards that plate. check what your idle rpms are then go to the screw that is circled in yellow. Thats your idle mixture screw. Screw that in till it is lightly tight in the carb. Dont over tighten cause you can strip the threads easy! Your motor should die once that screw is all the way in. Then back it out 2 turns. Start the motor up and then adjust it in 1/4 turn increments to see how the carb idles. Do the same with the idle mixture screw on the other side of the carb. Like i said your goal is a smooth idle between 600-650 rpms. Hopefully this helps

Eric - Thanks! <BR> <BR>yes its a Holly 4B. I am fairly handy and would be comfortable in attempting what you've talked about...will keep you posted. <BR> <BR>Thanks again. <BR> <BR>Trevor

a couple things i forgot. <BR> <BR>Disconnect your throttle cable at the carb, and after you adjust the screw in the red circle adjust the end of the shift cable to fit smoothly back on the carb throttle control. <BR> <BR>Also those specs that I gave you for turning in those screws, its can be more or less depending on the motor so take your time and fiddle with it to try and get it right. It should almost sound like it could die, and if the motors cold it could die. This idle setting is for when the engines warmed up. Good luck, keep us posted

agree with kevin sounds like you blew the power valve in the carb... thatd be the first place id check

If you can't settle it down with the idle screw, then it will be a blown power valve. It is a ten dollar part in the center of the carb. Once it is blown, too much fuel goes in at idle and the only way to keep it running is to rev it up. Normaly there are no effects at speed. Same thing happened to my 94 nautique. <BR> <BR>If it will run wide open when you demand the most fuel, then there isn't a problem with the fuel pump, filter, or any other fuel delivery issue. <BR> <BR>Here is what you need. Anyone who knows car carbs can rebuild it so you aren't limited to marine mecanics. I stumbled through the rebuild and it actually wasn't that bad if you lay your parts out in an organized manner while you take it apart. <BR> <BR><a href="http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1" target="_blank">http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1</a>

if its ever backfired you can just about bet its a blown power valve

where is the power valve?

You'll more than likely only have one. Its in the front metering block, just take off the front bowl and you'll see it, its round and you'll need a wrench to take it out of the block. Chances are you'll rip the gaskets pulling the bowl/metering block off and need to replace them. Also you'll need to look on the power valve, it will have a number on it like 6 or 6.5 ect.....Its opperated by vacume and you'll want to replace it with the same one or you may have problems.