Adding Trailer Bunk Protection
 

Sometimes I get a little out of whack when putting the boat back on the trailer and put small scratches on the side of the boat.
Anyone have any ideas on a better way of cushioning the top of my vertical bunk guides?

Other than being a better driver =)
I am working on that part. :banghead:

Thanks

You're putting the trailer too deep into the water when you put the boat on. You want to drive up the trailer so the boat centers itself on the bunks.

That was my first thought also.

Yep your bunks are to narrow . spread them out some and make sure the carpet on them is clean. You can see in the pic my pads do not touch the boat when loaded

I got a different take on your issues.

Your bunks are too short ... and ... are built of too strong of construction material(s) for the purpose.

(As an aside, I call them goal posts, but I've never been concerned with their actual generic trade name).

I say, sink your trailer in as deep as please ... but if your bunks are scratching your hull below the rub rail ... the bunks are too short.

Mine are steel tube ... taller than yours ... with an L-bend at the foot ... sleeved in a PVC inner sleeve (put a cap on it if you like) ... covered in nylon-jacketed foamed elastomeric outer sleeve (but again, jacketed in nylon, and, emblazoned with my dealer's business name).

In my earliest trailering experiences ... when loading the boat back onto the trailer ... if I hit the goal posts slightly off angle... the contact would be between rub rail and nylon jacket ... and the nylon-jacketed elastomeric outer sleeve would roll.

Even when I got better (and before I got a slip in a marina) ... when I was pulling out during a rush to get out of a sudden rain squall (and lightning) ... if I hit the goal posts at too sharp an angle ... the contact would still be between goal post and rub rail ... the goal post would bend aside ... I'd abort that attempt, back out, and re-do.

Once the boat was loaded on the trailer, I'd just bend the goal post by hand to about where it had been ... and drive home.

I never had problems with goal posts marking my hull. On the other hand, the slip at the marina has become my new nemesis.

Harold Hemming got his post up before I finished writing mine. But his picture is an excellent illustration of what I was trying to describe.

Guide poles or posts. maybe just swap out the wood for a little longer piece to be sure that the hull does not hit the steel tube.

You also might want to try a different loading technique, when I load mine I get the trailer so the bunks are 3/4 "normal" depth in then glide the boat half way up until it centers and stops on the bunks with about 5-6 feet of boat still off the back of the trailer, then I ask the drive to back in another 3-4 feet as I power the boat up the rest of the way.

It means the guide posts are much further out of the water when boat passes through them and it is much easier to go between them without using them as a bump guide when the trailer self centers the boat.

Seems to work pretty well, is quick and easy on the bunks and boat.

Thank for the advice.
I try to load the boat on when the trailer is shallower.
This works on some ramps. Others are really steep.

Does anyone have a idea on where to find replacement posts?
I like the look of the round ones?

try google query = boat trailer guide poles
looks likes there's loads of places to buy new.
I don't know if there's any such thing as a boat trailer junk yard,
but I wouldn't hesitate to buy these, if in good to fair condition,
off an otherwise junked trailer.

Couple different ways to combat this.

Most likely your trailer is in just a bit too deep. If it's a tandem try leaving the closest fender to the car about 2inches above water. If it's a single top of fender just above water. Adjust slightly from there.


Those carpeted guide rails will scratch your boat like crazy if the get any type of debri on them. They also look very short. Maybe it's the angle of your pic, maybe they are just short. You want the height of them to be way above the rubrail. As noticed in Harold's pic. Yours seem to be not much above. Those carpet guide poles will not raise up any when you dunk your the trailer. When your trailer is IN THE WATER your guide pole should be no less than a foot-foot and half above the rubrail. This way when the boat bumps the guide pole the rubrail touches the pole not your gelcoat. Like I mentioned carpet is about the worst guide material to have above the water in this scenario. If its not wet or if The boat isn't wet when it contacts the gelcoat it will scuff and mar your decals and gel.


Here is what I would do. I would remove that carpet piece . Measure the metal diameter. Get a nice 10-12 foot piece of PVC (halve it) and place it over the top of the metal guide. You want to make sure it's a little loose so it spins. This will give you more help guiding on. It will allow the pvc to spin freely around the metal,and it will give you the height you need to have it contact the rubrail instead. Furthermore it will give you a little more width by removing the carpeted piece. Plop to pvc end caps on the top and enjo no more scuffs.

I would only use pvc if you switched to a round steel tube...it will spin on it then.

not all trailers are designed the same obviously.

Not sure how steep the ramps you use are but looks like you're too deep. As others have said the guides should be on the rub rail with that style trailer. Try putting the trailer a little shallower or maybe add a little height to the guides so they touch only the rub rail at your usual ramps. Easy to say steer straight and don't touch the guides but in practice there are perfect retrievals and sometimes you have a current, crosswind, or are just plain tired from riding all day and get a little sloppy. Been there done that.

Alternatively if there is a dock at your ramp load it by hand. When I am at a ramp with a dock alongside and close I push the boat to the trailer by hand from the dock, toss the rope into the truck bed, pull it as far as it'll go and clip on/crank the rest. I'm usually pretty quick, certainly faster than most others that use the ramp. No fuss or scratches.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
I went to look at the trailer again yesterday and I think I might buy some ABS or PVC pipe that could slip over the square steel post and remove the wood bunks.
This would give me 1 1/2" more on each side and I can make it taller.

I will tell you what I end up with.

Thanks again.

Just finished the fix yesterday.

I ended up buying a 3" ABS pipe to fit over the square tube steel after removing the 2x4.
I was having a hard time finding someone that would make a cover for that size pipe. I ended up contacting https://www.beyondthewake.com/Boat-T...Guide-Pads.php

Worked with Dan he was very helpful in finding the correct foam and making me a custom cover at a great price.

So if anyone is in the same boat I would contact them.

Thanks again for all the help.

Looks great

But one suggestion that you might already have covered it I just didn't see any where you talked about it.

Put a bolt or use a wire screwed onto the post and then run the wire up the inside of the pipe a-little ways and attach it. That way if the trailer get to deep the pads can float up a few inches. I also helps if the trailer gets to deep your pads don't come completely off. And because your in a rush you go ahead and load it with the pads floating in the water.

Seen it happen and it put a 5 foot long deep scratch down the side of my buddies boat.

Very good idea.
I will work on adding that.

Jason if you haven't already. You should join the MB owners group on FB.

What was the cost of the 3" size covers that they made you? The ones on there sight are not that big. I have the same problem as you and the same guide posts you have. This has been a helpful thread to read, thanks.

Ryan,

I ended up ordering two of these:
http://www.grainger.com/product/THER...rchQuery=2CKJ2

Then the covers where $35 shipped.
The quality was very nice just a pain to get on. Use plenty of lube.(that is what she said) I used Dawn soap.
I would email Dan direct he was very helpful. info@beyondthewake.com

Hi Don,

Yes I am on MB boat owners also.
Thanks for the recommendation.

Great thread as I have a similar issue.

Jaed: what length of 3" tubing, foam, and covers did you end up going with?

I ended up getting a 8' stick and cutting it down into 2 - 47" pieces.
I left 1" on top so if I do hit the top it is hitting foam not ABS.

Ended up adding a cable like jonblarc7 recommended.

Used a self tapper screw then a cable down to the bottom of the ABS on the outside between the foam. I was going to try the inside to keep it clean but had a hard time trying to do that. I will try to get a better finished photo next time I am by the boat.