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-   -   Lake mooring (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=808093)

hawk22 08-23-2017 10:17 PM

Lake mooring
 
Well, still loving the new boat and new place on the lake...problem now is lake level is dropping rapidly. I need to move the boat off the dock ASAP and moor it out a little bit. It won't be nearly as convenient, but can't risk it. I thought a cement filled tire would be adequate, but when I set it it seemed to still slide quite a bit when I was testing it. Any great suggestions for permanent Mooring?

tripsw 08-24-2017 2:09 PM

We use buckets with concrete. I'd imagine a tire would also work, but maybe a bucket slides less?

boardman74 08-24-2017 2:37 PM

It depends on your bottom. If your soft mud/ muck the tire will sink in and probably hold. If your hard bottom neither the tire or buckets are going to do the trick. I did this for years on a hard sand bottom lake. I used 2 large hook/ fluke style anchors designed for like a 35-40 foot boat on a Y harness then with about a 30 foot leader. Made sure to manually hard set them(get the tines dug in then step on the back of the anchor) and never had an issue. Only time it slid some was during a heavy storm with 50+ mph winds.

If your hard bottom you need something that is either super heavy(neighbor has a cement mooring the size of a VW hood and a foot think) or something that is going to bite. Your tire would work if you stuck R-bar out of it in multiple directions before cementing. You want to make it look like a 3-dimensional X.

rallyart 08-27-2017 9:43 PM

Well, this is a very late reply and I guess you have already set your mooring anchor. Concrete is much less dense than steel and you need a lot more of it than if you were using heavy steel. A 1200# concrete block will work pretty well for a wake boaat. 2400# would never move. 300# will get dragged a very long way. If you could find something like a drive wheel for a D9 Cat that would be a good start if your don't want to put in a huge concrete block, but you might need more unless it silts in.

cadunkle 08-28-2017 6:10 AM

We use a couple concrete blocks made for moorings, forget the weight but they're at least a few hundred pounds each and hold fine. Rolled down to waters edge and floated them out on foam dock floats. We had one failure from the chain rusting to be weak enough to break in a storm, inspect the chain and hardware regularly and replace before it gets sketchy. One concrete filled tire will not hold in any wind or current. Concrete blocks are cheap enough to not cheap out doing tires and such. Only exception would be if you foresee needing to move the mooring ever, then maybe a pair of very large anchors would be suitable.

http://willardandsons.com/toppics/blocks.jpg

hawk22 09-01-2017 4:36 PM

Well, ended up pouring what we are calling the MadMax tire anchor. Hoping this along with the first one will hold. ��

denverd1 09-05-2017 6:32 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Auger-Style-E...+anchors+60%22

these are working for a friend. sand then mud bottom. 60" with 7" "auger"

hawk22 09-09-2017 8:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Behold.....the madMax tire anchcor....

rallyart 09-09-2017 9:57 PM

When you cast the next ones it might be an idea to have a tube through the middle so that a chain can go right through and attach to itself. Easier to replace a rusted chain that way. I hop it works. Perhaps it would be useful to also add an old engine block to the chain also.
I hope it does the job for you. The rebar will help.

SurfBoard 09-10-2017 8:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawk22 (Post 1967059)
Behold.....the madMax tire anchcor....

How does the chain attach?

hawk22 09-10-2017 9:49 AM

That's the bottom side of the anchor. The other side that is on the ground has a rebar loop.

lavinder 11-14-2017 11:11 AM

Home Depot bucket filled with concrete with rebar sticking out the sides. That way if (when) it tips over, it digs in as a proper anchor. If you can get out during low levels (if they drop it seasonally), you can bury the bucket as a more permanent mooring solution.


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