building garage need suggestions
 

so i am building an additional garage, i have tons of room for whatever we could want, but have been thinking 40x30, I have 3 cars, the boat and a few motorcycles, the house has a 2 car attached, would you go bigger? Pros and cons, want to stay around 60k tops for budget. I will need clearing and foundation

Funny how different prices are based on region. My father-in-law had a 30x40x12 garage built for $20,000. It is not insulated but does have electric and water.
I think it is plenty big but he put the garage door at the end. I would put two 12ft and one 10ft door across the front or at least two 10ft and one 12ft. This should give you more than enough space to pull three things in and have room around them. There would also be enough space for a work bench and wall cabinets.
That said bigger is always better.

at 40 wide, i am thinking 3 12 ft, has to be the same for HOA, 30 deep, no insulation, but may drywall it, no bonus room 2 side windows and a side door,

Insulated? Siding type? Roof material? Region?

A base garage should cost $20-22 per square foot to build. This would be 2x4 walls, 2 foot on center, no insulation, asphalt shingle roof, vinyl siding, and an Alaskan slab....... Basic electrical and a cheap boiler. Most of the work done by yourself.

If you are doing frost walls, a 5" slab with drains, high quality siding, standing seam roof, attic trusses, finished interior walls, and foam insulation type build, with radiant heat and AC..... You should probably figure on $60-80.00 per square foot.

Low end base build on a 30x40 should be about 25k. A high end build could cost 80-90k. I would be curious what you are looking for in a finished garage.... That would get me a good idea of what it would cost.

Are you doing any of the work yourself, or with friends??

Edit- looks like you answered the insulation question.

What type of overhead doors are you thinking? Cheap ones? Or a nicer carriage style/fancier type of some sort.... Your doors could be 3k or 20k, depending on design.

in s carolina, no insulation, brick front, siding on other 3 walls, assault roof, no heat, no water, just electric.

without the upper bay windows and with 12 ft doors, brick front, not a lot of brick, so that should not be expensive.

Ya, skipping the upper dormers will save quite a bit. That being said, I love the look of that sketch with the dormers...

Nonetheless, that build would cost about 45-50k up here in VT. I believe it should be quite a bit cheaper in SC (not needing frost walls, and generally lower labor rates) I would think you should be able to do a 50x35 for 60k-ish.

12-13 feet wide, per car, is usually pretty good, however, 14'+ is really nice. Plenty of room to open doors fully without hitting another car/toy etc. most garages around here are 12' wide per car, and sometimes you can't open your car doors all the way. I did mine 28' wide for a 2 bay, and I love it. Although, I still sometimes wish I went 30' wide.

One thing I would say, is that you make sure you have your contractors give you a bid on the job, and also give you cost estimates on any and all changes!! Also, put it out for bid to a couple different reputable contractors. Get that stuff in writing!

i can do a 12 ft by 14 ft tall door, i would like to do one big door, but not sure if thats even possible, plus the cost for a custom 36 ft door. I have the first contractor coming this friday, hope to get something moving by spring.

I have a 30'x 46' with 12'x12' doors. I would go 12' x 14' doors. The extra height is always handy. We are building a new house that will have a walk out basement garage / shop that will be 36' x 48' with two 12'x12' doors then will also have a 36'x36'shop for a little extra parking that will have 12'x14' doors.

I have never heard any one complain about a garage being too big or an engine being too powerful.
If you have tons of space, maybe you want a pull through door on the back also. Also, where are you putting the work area and bike storage?

i think if i go too big the neighbors will freak. I think the 14ft high door is a good idea. i have a 3 acre space, but cleaning will become a cost factor too. my wife wants a new master bathroom, we are getting a garage.lol so thats a fight as well. my friend did his sides in metal siding, not sure if its a cost benefit or a better long term solution. I am afraid it will look like a commercial garbage.

I would definitely do at least 1 14ft door. And speaking from experience go bigger than you think you actually need. You won't regret it later. If budget allows I'd go 40x60 and call it a day! You don't have to finish the entire structure as you can insulate/heat 1/2 of it and use the other half for dry storage. I built a 30x40 3 years ago and kicking myself now because I don't have enough room.

Make it deep enough to leave boat and truck hooked up.

I built my shop pretty similar to the pic you've shown except I wanted more dimension to it so I made the center (1/3) section and garage door pop out four feet further in the front than the other two with a gable in the middle. It's 30'X50' plus that pop out. Center door is 9'X10'-6" and side doors are 9'X9'. Plenty of height in the middle so i dont have to lower the tower. If I could change anything, I would have made the outside walls wider (end further from the center) if that makes sense. It should have been 30'X54'. Due to structural requirements, I was only able to have 9' wide doors which sucks if you have a full sized truck. I paid 55k back in 06 when things were booming.

Personally, I felt I had a duty to my neighborhood to make my shop match the quality and looks of my house since it sits in such a prominate location ie;roof, siding, carriage house doors etc. That may also explain why I've had a few pizzas delivered to my shop by rookie pizza delivery people..... I take it as a compliment.

As far as a 14' high door goes, you better make sure it's gonna look in proportion to everything. Especially if it's close to your house. Might wanna get prices on doors too before you commit to that as well. Also, what's the point of such a high door if your shop isn't deep enough to house a 34'+ RV?

Last but not least, bigger is always better. If you're an American, you'll find plenty of stuff to fill those corners up.

As my Dad taught me. When building a garage, first figure out exactly what you want in it. Plan accordingly. Once you have your dimensions figured out to fit your needs, add 10' to each side. Then double the whole thing. It will still be too small at some point.

Personally, I'm kicking around a 50x70. I figure once I throw 2-3 cars, the boat, a tractor (snow removal and general get stuff done), a wood shop and other work areas on top of the bathroom and office, I should be just about right. Oh, and it has to be 70' so I can have my indoor archery range. Heck, why not.

For resale it would be good for any garage elevation facing outward to match the house.

Spot infrared heating would be nice for the occasional project. Are heated floors expensive?

A permanent staircase to the upper storage level (if you would have an attic) is a luxury...maybe an 'L' in a corner where it would have a smaller footprint, especially to a high attic.

Too much space is just an invitation to keep collecting and holding onto things you should have discarded long ago.

Blasphemy!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...f049d5eabf.jpg

This is 60x40. Two 8' doors and one 12' seems perfect to me.

A 12' door should be plenty for any boat with the tower up. 14' is usually RV height. We are building a 16' X 48' RV garage attached to a 22' X 28' portico which is attached to a 28' x28' garage. We have 12' ceiling height with 10' doors on the garage and 14' door on the RV garage. Our RZ2 will fit in all three structures. Our builder quoted us 50 to 60 dollars a square foot fully finished,insulated with spray in foam,metal roof and sandstone exterior.Wiring for the RV, air compressor and a 10k lift are included. Also includes a sink and sealed floors with texture in the sealer. A RV dump pipe is in the RV garage also. You should easily be able to build what you want in your budget if you just finish it off regular.

i think 12 ft will work, i want them all to be the same so it has a look that won't upset the hood. Rance, nice layout

Is that 60' deep because that isn't 60' wide.

both estimates are about the same, the fill and foundation is whats killing me, the slope is extreme compared to the driveway to the house. he suggested 14 ft doors all the way across to cut the brick costs and a lower slope to keep it from being gigantic. with all the concrete work, and drywalled, no heat, no dormers, no water, and no insulation (we don't need it here) its about 50k 70% is all clearing, foundation, and a huge driveway, its going to be a lot of labor to get the space to where it needs to be. Will take pics when they start.

Question for those in the south or warm weather, would you wait to build in the spring or is it normal to build in the winter. I am in SC from the north so not sure, i keep getting different info. the foundation will be 8 feet below the building and fill will be needed. i am afraid the ground temp will be a problem if i do it now.

From the opposite perspective, I've seen many a foundation poured in freezing weather here in Canada. I'm sure there is some minimum temp they would pour at, and they may use some additive in the concrete, but they don't come to a full stop during the winter.

I should hope it would be fine to build in the winter.... I built my garage in Vermont, in December, January, and February. And it was a nasty winter. (26x37 full 2 story that is built into a side hill)

spoke to 2 different contractors and they don't poor if its under 40 degrees if possible. i will find out why, strange i guess, maybe its that they don't want to deal with the clean up of the truck

its going to be a 40x40 with 14 ft doors, that way i can park an rv or 2 cars back to back.

Is that two doors - 12'wide x 14'heght?
What's the price per door?

I would like to see pics when you start b/c I'm considering the same style/size.

Mark

3 doors 12 ft wide 14 high was what we talked about. i would prefer 2 large than 3 smaller, i want as much space to pull in and out. not that far yet.lol i am working on the budget with the one local contractor that i think we are going to use. keep you posted as it comes together.

Up here, they will pour down to 10 below zero. Under 15 degrees above, they will put chloride in, to aid in curing. After it is poured, the contractor will do any finish work, and then insulate it with concrete blankets for 24 hours.

Maybe the contractors don't have the blankets.... Anything above 20 degrees doesn't require blankets, because concrete makes its own heat when it cures.

In TEXAS the contractors I've talked to recommend 50 degrees for pouring all of their foundations. Most everything here has a concrete slab that is engineered.

Strange. Leaves me wondering why....... Especially considering the foundations up here in the north have to withstand much more abuse from temperature fluctuations and frost. Heck, they were pouring the foundations for the new WTC when it was 30 degrees out, at most. (I was in NYC and was checking out the progress in January 2013.)

Called my friend in SC this morning. He is a commercial construction forman in myrtle beach. He said the reason they don't pour in lower temps was simply because the workers don't like the cold.......

There are several reasons that they may not want to pour here in the south (SC) in cold weather. 1 most concrete plants won't open if it is below freezing because they don't have a heated water supply for their mix. 2 they can add calcium to speed the curing time, but it adds cost and if they can wait a day or 2 the weather will be fine to pour without it. 3 cold weather takes longer for the concrete to cure and they will have to stay and monitor it until it is ready to finish and then they are paying labor to sit and wait and it could be after dark which would make finishing harder too. I have had concrete subs that poured and were finishing after 9:00 PM by vehicle headlights and neighbors complaining about the noise

Haven't heard 40*, usually here it's around freezing or a bit below they don't want to pour. As it cures it will create heat so that gives you some wiggle room on temp. Not sure how cold it gets down there but if I were ever to build a garage here in winter wonderland it absolutely would be getting an insulated slab and PEX in the floor, even if a boiler and plumbing came later. The only thing worse than working inside on a cold slab is working outside on cold dirt. On a new build it's a marginal cost to be ready for in floor heat and can be nice even if just to keep things above freezing. Maybe irrelevant if it only gets around freezing there.

Remember to consider wall space. A wider garage only adds wall space to one end of the 4 wall areas. Bump it out so you have enough room on the sides and front of vehicle parking areas for access. A couch, big screen and stereo would be nice.

My garage is a 24X30 and I have room to walk in front of the tahoe and whatnot with some shelves built along the front wall. If my 7' door was taller I could get my MB 21 in there with the swing away tongue and have 2' to the wall. If I had built it, I would make it tall enough for 12' doors and the 40X30 would be ideal!!! Spray foam the walls, its more than worth it!

40x40 is what we have decided on. I am not sure on the doors, i want 14ft on all three or 2 larger ones, my wife is afraid it will look weird. i am not sure what direction i want the roof line either yet. i like the pitch to be opposite of the doors, but i can keep my costs down if i put it sloping toward the doors. I need some better pictures than what i find online to really get an idea of a slight sloping roof. I can't build it really high or my HOA will nix it.