The exhaust is straight up 4" corrugated flexible marine exhaust hose, from Riser to outlet. Don't pay attention to the white sealant around my trim tab arm, lol. I fixed the right one and redid it with black, never got around to the left one.

So yeah, there's the exhaust outletless transom and the exhaust outlets on the bottom of the boat between the rudders.

Does it cause wash or anything? Pretty sweet!

PROS - no wash, less exhaust noise, low "CO" when chillin on the swim platform, no restriction in flow, low turbulant flow (long slow bend).
CON - will vibrate out a filling at idle and no ballast. Fill ballast some, not full, and you are good to go.

What no updates, no new projects? To busy enjoyin the water?

Those amps are waiting for your next project Fred!

Dang I replied via mobile - pm sent

Time to start planning next years EPIC ownsers 1st annual reunion.........I say in Dallas. Afterall TX is the east/west center of the country and anything north of Houston is considered "up north".

yeah, I can't spell, I know and don't care.

I vote Milw. We need to bring more exposer to the Midwest.

Make it east central Illinois. Clinton is a great lake and is always warm from the power plant. Early get together!

I am SOOOO down for an EPIC meet up..... someone just plan it and take charge. I will say Texas is a good plan as the owner of EPIC lives there. We could cable as well. Granbury Texas....just a thought. I am in Indiana so long trip. I would love to meet everyone and have like 10 Epics sitting together...so freaking fun!!

I could do Clinton. Don't know about going much farther though. Clinton would be sweet, we could do a mid September outing. We could even plan something for this year if you guys wanted to.

ok guys, I need some help... Just got my FAE.... and it comes with no instructions. I get online on the website, and has instructions but just wondering about the bolts that are there. Do I need to anchor this to my swim step? Can someone with one snap a few pictures for me so I can see what it is supposed to look like. I don't want to mess it up but want to do it tomorrow....Fathers day. Thanks.

Scott, I have an FAE on its way and this is a part from an email Larry sent me.

Before you can install your FAE you will need to remove one of the bolts from the swim platform (see picture) and purchase the same diameter and thread pitch but 2-1/2” longer. You will need 4 of them. You should be able to get them from Home/Lowes in plain plated steel. Once you find out the size, please let me know. If I find out in the interim I will let you know. Once we have the correct size, I will send you a stainless steel bolt.

On second thought, here are three pics of an install Larry sent me awhile ago. Hope this helps.

YES YES YES...thanks man soooo much. They sent me all those bolts and metal, now the only thing I have to figure out is how to cut holes in the square metal tubing. Thoughts?

Now that I see the pictures I can totally see how all the pieces he sent work. Thanks a million, just wish he would pre-fab the holes for us as well....

I will try to do this sometime this week (4 inches of water in basement last night so today is jacked, ugggg).... if you get yours we should hook up via phone or something and do them together. Two heads are always better

Make sure you use a center punch to mark the tubing. Predrill with a smaller bit and step up the drill bit size until you get to your desired diameter.

Good luck.

Mario-

Thanks Mario

Sounds good Scott. I'll let u know when I get mine in the mail. Hopefully this week.

Great Fred, I looked at all the pictures and all my stuff. This doesn't look that hard, hardest part is going to be marking and putting the holes in the metal tubing. After that pretty easy and I am not mechanical at all. We have had so much rain here lately no time for boat, so all my FAE parts are sitting there staring at me begging to be put on then taken to the lake for a trial.

Has anyone with an Extreme trailer had to replace either of the two rear lights? One of mine was out the other day and when I looked at it closer it is filled with water. They are one piece lights and as such the entire light and housing needs to be replaced. So much for being waterproof. Just wondering where you got them if you had to.

Nic, Those are standard trailer lights, sold at and trailer supply store. Was it LED? If so, it should be warrantied for at least 5 years. The name of the light manufacturer should be stamped on the back of the light. Call them, I'm sure they will send you another.

If there not LED, replace both with LED's

I actually have an extra set of LED tail lights. My brother got them on his new work trailer and he replaced them with the old style. He figures there just going to get broken off anyway. I think he wants $20 for both of them.

Mine are not LED style, they are just normal bulbs in there. If they both work and will hook to our connectors I will take them off his hands. Are they rated for underwater use? That would be my only concern if they didn't come off of a boat trailer.

Nic, they're sealed. I'll talk to him tomorrow and shoot you a text.

Thanks Joe. I would appreciate it.

Have any of you done anything with your handle nuts that hold your towers up to guard against them sinking into the drink? I was thinking of drilling a small keychain sized hole in each handle to put a keychain floaty on. That way they would float should they drop into the lake. Too bad Epic doesn't have any keychain floaties...

My depth gauge went out and now the left merc gauge says error... something about the pitot, get to dealer soon. Has anyone else seen this and is there an easy fix. Dont want to put boat in shop before 4th of july but really gonna need the depth gauge???

Nic, I was thinking the same thing. I don't know about floaties, but they need something for sure. Each one of my buddies have dropped them at least once. Luckily we put the tower up and down over the grass, so it's no biggie. But that would suck lots if we dropped them in the lake.

Amen guys. Drilling the hole is a great idea, problem is then when riding that is banging against something all day. Unless you place a piece of velcro or something to hold it against it.

Thats why i was thinking of a foam keychain floaty. That thing could bang against teh tower all day long and you wouldn't hardly hear it. Not sure what else you could do. I have to go in and out of my boat lift with the tower down and then raise/lower it out on the water. When I had my boat in the driveway I managed to drop the handle onto the ground. Was thinking at the time how lucky i was that i didn't do that out on the lake haha.

I've thought of this as well, but haven't done nothing yet as I've yet to need to fold my tower down on the water. I was thinking of drilling a small hole in the handle and tying fishing line from that to the tower, leaving just enough line to turn the handle around. To add to the floaty idea, instead of the keychain idea, maybe glue one on somehow?

Hey guys, just got my bimini in today. Need some pics, measurements, drill and tap sizes?, tips on install, anything to make er go on easy. Thanks.

Fred, I can get ya some pic's with measurements. Won't be until later though.

Hey Fred your's didn't come with the bimini?

JOE, TWITCH, FRED anyone that will answer. Hey wondering a few things. Went back through this thread and now having my boat for a while I was reading some old posts and it helped having my boat. So...

1. Carpet under the seats...has anyone tackled that yet and put that nice matting in from Epic?
2. Carpet in the drivers feet...matting again?
3. I know it is lame, but 4 kids under age 8, so ladder off the swim step? Maybe hinge it under? Thoughts?
4. Bow pop up cleats, can't believe they didn't put them in...again thoughts?
5. Surf set up. Damn i can't get this dialed in. My best is 1/2 full front full surf side trim at 75% and 11mph? Anyone else?
6. Seats... hate the current setup of having them like they are. Anyone do the hinges on them yet?
7. More weight for surfing, do I need it? Bags? something on surf side....again at a loss here.
8. Drain in cooler, saw someone put one in....scares the begezzus out of me to put a hole in the bottom but is that the only way?

Anything else I need to look at?

Quick question, what prop do these boats come with? My buddy's prop and shaft fell out of the boat somewhere in the lake and when they had to put a new shaft and prop on it and it wouldn't plane out with full ballast and 8 people on the boat. Not sure what they put on it though. I think it's either a 14 or 14.5 diameter that they put back on it but not sure of the pitch.

I have a 14 x 14.25, 2007 model. What else is the boat doing? is it even getting to a high enough RPM? How in the world did the shaft fall out?

Well I lost a rack handle in the water. I needed to fold my loaded rack in a full 180* and to do so the handle slipped out of my hand, banked off this and that and KURPLUNK!

Another idea I just thought of guys, was to drill the hole in the tip of the handle. Use a stainless steel key ring or something like it. When you break the handle loose, you can use that ring for a finger hold.

I have a carabinner (however you spell it) on my ignition key ring. It holds my ignition key, laminated TX registration wallet card, glove box key and my T handle drain plug when not in use. You could also hang your handles on it as well when not in use. I hang my T handle here as a good reminder to put the plug in and I don't have to worry about searching various cup holders for it.

Fred A. - what bimini did you get? Samson right?

No idea on how it fell out, but it did. Since I don't drive it that often, I'm not sure what RPM he is getting to but I will find out. We are at 5,280' and the old prop would easily let it run 42 mph up here and never had any issues getting up on plane. His is a 2007 with the 8.1L as well.

42 MPH?????? I cant get my EPIC over 30 empty......

I don't go over 28mph on purpose. I think I got up to 38ish and hit my limiter.

Dang Fred sorry to hear about your loss. That is exactly what I don't want to happen to me. Funny it happens when we are all discussing it.

Any thoughts on my list?

oil change?

after the initial 20hr break-in oil change the epic manual says to change every 50hrs while the merc manual says every 100hrs.

thoughts? it is a merc motor and i can't imagine why they would say every 100hrs if it wasn't absolutely reasonable. besides, their cert. shops get the work and proper maintenance makes their product last longer thus having a better reputation. it wouldn't cost them anything to be on the safe side and suggest 50hr changes but yet they don't.

this all goes for transmission as well...

Scott-

Regarding some of your questions-

4. Bow pop up cleats, can't believe they didn't put them in...again thoughts?
-we usually use the front tower mount/leg for any bumpers/boueys and to tie off with, hasn'g been a problem yet

5. Surf set up. Damn i can't get this dialed in. My best is 1/2 full front full surf side trim at 75% and 11mph?

-Goofey set up- front tank full, starboard full, port empty, 11mph (depending on how many people in the boat, the more people, bump the speed up just a tad), no extra sacs needed, if any, maybe 200lbs up front.

-Regular set up. Same as above, but swap port and starboard settings, PLUS as much weight/peeps as possible on port side, 11mph or so. Regular IMO is much more work to get comparable to goofey.

8. Drain in cooler, saw someone put one in....scares the begezzus out of me to put a hole in the bottom but is that the only way?

-Along with the FAE, the best addition/mod IMO. Epic should just make it standard out the box. So nice to pull out of the water, pull the plug and have all that water drain away. No more standing water for days or until you get home and vacuum it out, no more musty smell and slime on your beverages that were left sitting in the cooler/bilge water for who knows how long...MUCH, MUCH easier. Only bummer is- the front compartment doesn't fully drain into the cooler because of that lip between the cooler and front compartment behind that removable disk. I would install the drain preferably in the middle of the V (if you have a v-shaped drain hole plate) and towards the front of the cooler. Because of the way our boats sit on the trailer, they naturally lean to the front a bit or have a little bit of a rake to it. My dealer put mine in. It took him like 30 minutes of labor total, quick and easy (to him, LOL)...they installed mine just left of the middle V because they didnt have a drain that was v-shaped. However, after pulling the plug and letting all the water drain, I have 'maybe' 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water left in the bottom that I just push out the drain by hand. That 1/4-1/2 cup is because my drain plug is closer to the back of the cooler vs the front.

oh yeah Scott-

On both surf set-ups, plate all the way up, needle on the gauge all the way forward

No that happened some time ago. I found a replacement at www.grainger.com

Timmy, 42 MPH, Really??? Mine does 28mph at 4000 rpm. Red line is somewhere around 5000rpm.

Fred, I totally understand why you would want all that stuff in one location, but as a mechanic, I've seen a lot of ignition switches that were worn out from hanging too much from the key. I can't imagine the beating your is taking.

Scott, The bow cleats, and the cooler drain are at the top of my list. I like the carpet where it's at (so far). Hinges under the seats would be sweet. Let us all know if you come up with something.

Joe - It only hangs on there when not in use or in tow. I have a spare ignition or two, no worries. As a shade tree mechanic I have a spare of alot of things....lol

Fred, I took some pic's of the mounting hardware. Hope they help. Let me know if you need anything else.

Joe - I would like to see a pic of that mirror and how it sits above the windshield with it mounted where yours is.

Ok, went out tonight. Surf set up got better. Ice just read your post. I didn't do that, but did fill surf side (reg) about as full as I could which is only about 3/4 for some reason. Front half, and about a 50% at 10.7. It created a nice pocket (I did have a 270lb guy sitting on the platform in the corner which has gotta help) and driver. I don't quite know, but I can't get the port side to fill completly. My thought it because of the lean it starts to create just sittin there filling it won't let it fill all the way? Anyone else have this?

Also, I seem to get alot of beeping when I am using smart tow. Again anyone else. Is the beep just telling me that I am up to speed? My gut says yes, but I have used it several times and it didn't seem to do that. Happened what seemed like quite a bit tonight. Especially surfing.

Joe, thanks man. That should help big time. I assume all parts get drilled and tapped into the tower. I should be able to get her pretty accurate from those pics. If I'm out a little, shouldn't matter, as long as both sides match up?

Had my surf (goofey) setup at front full (3/4 cause it drains out the side before gauge says full), surf side full, all the people on surf side, wake plate at 25%, 10.7 mph. Might try lifting the plate to see if that lengthens the pocket. Its a little shorter than I like. Or I need a faster board to recover. Custom 4'10" maybe isn't the best. My PP kept asking for more throttle though sometimes, even when it was pinned. Any thoughts? I think I just need to do a test like the manual says. Got the FAE on and its great. Two man job though for sure as I bolted her through like ICE had did. Pics to come when I get time, man staining a cedar deck and railing sucks!

Fred, what does this mean? "I bolted her through like ICE had did" Can you help. I am going to do my FAE and wondered what that ment.

Hey Scott, here are a couple of pics of the FAE for you.

Did you guyswith the FAE's take your exhaust flappers off? I left mine on, I was just wondering what everyone else did.

Thanks a million for the pictures those help alot!..... Joe, I think I am going to take mine off, anyone else??

I left mine on. No issues so far.

My issue today on the lake was dead batteries. I had the perko on bat.2 but its been on All as well. I was surfing, bro-in-law stopped to turn around after I fell, no throttle. Plastic piece on throttle broke, Anyway, I can fix it. But when he went to start, nothing. Got a boost, started fine. Batteries measure 11.9V and while we were limping to the dock, alternator kicking boosting up to 13V, not the alt. I've tested the perko and fuse, all good. The only thing I haven't done is load test the batteries. I find it weird if both are hooped, as we tried it on 1, 2 and All when trying to start. My father-in-law said he load tested them fine in the spring as a left them in the boat all winter on Off, he said they were good. Checked them all for water as well and is good. I think I might go buy a load tester tomorrow and if they are NFG, which I hope they are, then I'll buy new ones. Any thoughts? What's the best ones to buy if I do. I was thinking Optima. Thanks for any info. I wanna get back on the lake on Saturday!!!

My existing batteries are:

1. Alliance 24M 800 (800 CCA, 1000 MCA)
2. Interstate Cranking Marine 24M-HD (500 CCA, 625 MCA)

One more thing, all connections are tight and clean.

Scrap the last three posts. Bought a load tester this morning and both batteries are shot. Now I need to know what the best batteries are to buy. there is no Lifeline dealer here, but there is two Optima dealers here, so I'm leaning towards them. Should I have two matching batteries or one deep cycle and one starting? Any thoughts?

I always like the deep cycle's but if you have a Optima dealer there I would also lean that way. Just nice having them there. I would go that way.

Hey guys, I am getting some minor (now) scratches on the back of the swim step. Most likely from bring the boards in after a set. I have a black boat so all things show up. Is there something I can put on it to protect that back edge of the swim step? I have heard of something like a clear tape, but not sure.

Got my FAE in, looks great and more important is very very stable. Going out in the morning so looking forward to seeing the advantages.

I left mine on but have a very prominent and annoying rattle from what seems to be the right flapper. I would like to take them out now if there are no ill effects. thoughts? How exactly would you remove them?

Also still curious what people are doing for oil changes. Merc manual suggests every 100hrs while epic manual says every 50hrs.

Ian - As far as Oil changes I have 6 hours on mine...lol so I have no clue yet. I am wondering about the 15 hours oild change. I want to wait or may HAVE to wait since I am having friends over for a week in 2 weeks and will for sure go through about 25 hours when they are here. I will end up starting that week with about 10 on it. So I am wondering if I can wait until the 30 hour mark?

If I were you I would do 75 hours then, if Merc says 100 and Epic says 50 split the difference. ???

I did leave my flappers on, and if you want to take them off I would have no idea how now unless you take the entire unit out and start again.

Ian, I have that rattling problem too! It sounded like a bearing to me at first. It seems like the metal flapper noise gets magnified by the FAE. It's driving me nuts. It would be sweet if I could get them out while there still on the boat, but I'm sure they'll have to come off.

Ian, I'm also not sure about the oil changes. I'll probably do mine at 50. Gotta look at it today, I hope I didn't go over. The question I have is, has anyone removed the oil filter yet? Being that it's mounted upside down, is all the oil going to come running out when you unscrew it?

GUYS !!!

I have the sound TOO.... so I put in and had some god awful metal sound. THought of this post. So, pulled the FAE off and still damn sound. Hauled it out and took to Merc shop. HE said it is some IDLE pully he thinks. He said it was for SURE not the flappers. SO S@*T now 6 hours on a brand new boat and I have issue. Uggg. He is fixing on Tuesday and hopes to have it back to me in 2-3 days. What a crap deal. Never even heard of some idle pulley or something like it.

Weird thing we had the boat out 2 days before and no FAE and it was perfect. So I knew in the back of my head it wasn't the FAE. That thing is so simple and doesn't touch the motor at all. Uggg

I thought it sounded like a idler pully too. I brought my stethascope home from work, but I couldn't find the problem. I just assumed it was the flappers.

Scott, Let us know if that fixes the problem

Oil Change-why not change it every 50hrs?

During the initial break in process I would HIGHLY suggest changing your oil soon after or at the 50hr mark. If there are any shavings from the seating process the will be pulled out during the change. Buy a Moler type pump to extract the oil, do not warm the engine up before hand. This way your filter will have already been drained if it is mounted upside down. By not warming the engine you have the best scenario to extract all the spent oil and refilling to true fill levels.
Changing your oil every 50hrs is more costly for your maintenance but may prove lesscostly in the long run. I only have a couple of hrs left on my note and plan to keep mine for some time. I have zero warranty left on all of it, so with that said better safe than sorry!
This is my personal opinion and my personal practice for performing my own service.

OK......JOE.....

Just talked to GARY over at Epic. He said it is NOT the idle pulley. He says they had a bad batch of Bafflers and I must have got one. The baffler is for the muffler and just has come unseeded I guess. Gary says it does not hurt the motor at all and I can go play. He said that rock noise is exactly that, as HE himself was towed in recently on his 2009 with same problem and raised some cane. So, the manufacture of the bafflers sent them a new batch and he is sending me one. He is convinced that is it, since Epic has had zero issues with the Merc motor at all. If you have that sound and it just came about, he said that is exactly how it happens since somehow it just breaks and shouldn't. Gary told me, "Go play, the only damage it is doing is to your ears as it is just insanly annoying." he told me to "turn the radio up until he got me the part to fix it" lol So I am also going to call him back and actually hook to a hose here in a few and let him listen via phone, pretty sure this baffler is the problem and not the idle pulley.

Ian and Joe

Does yours sound like a rock in a dryer type sound?

Scott, Gary is right on about the mufflers. Mine blew out right around the 10 hour mark. However, my boat currently has no muffler on it, and I still have a loud metallic noise.

If you look above, you'll see the elbows I put in, instead of the new muffler they sent me. You don't need a muffler if you have an FAE.

JOE....lets talk today...can I call you? Had your number don't know it now....I will PM you now.

Fae-Joe wouldn't it be reasonable to assume that the noise you hear is resonance from the exhaust and all the thin steel components you have involved in your exhaust? Just curious....

I just wanted to say a HUGE thanks goes out to Joe. I have met a ton of great people on WW and asked for help on things. I have talked with Joe and Ice a few times on different stuff, even prior to buying my Epic. So Joe, if I am ever up your way or you are in Indiana ever I would love to buy you a beer, or/and give you a pull!

Thanks man really, made my nerves calm down alot !

I too had that noise and it was my baffle. Happened to me at 7 hours. Replacement from Epic was a breeze. I no longer have that noise. Sounded exactly as you are describing though.

Not sure what is going on with you though Joe since you have no muffler. Very strange. Don't the flappers need to be on there? FAE or no FAE the water level is going to be the same is it not? Or will the water level in the muffler never reach a high level with the FAE on because the water can't rush in as fast?

I was wondering if it was the baffle too but mine actually stopped when I pulled the fae off. That or it's loud enough without the fae to drown it out but I don't think that is the case.

Fred, 'Oil Change-why not change it every 50hrs?' simply put, cost and hassle. i had it changed after the 20 hr break-in. I'm at 80 total hrs now and scheduled for a change next monday so this change will have 65-70hrs. then I think I'll stretch to the 100hr intervals and every fall with winterization. i can't imagine following the mercury maintenance schedule being hard on their engine that they would have to warranty.

Have you been changing every 50? Full synthetic? how does the oil look at that point?

Wow, can't believe everyone has the muffler issue. Ian, after you got a new muffler it went away and never came back huh?

Ok, another question to everyone.... I have 6 hours on my boat..going to get this muffler issue solved ASAP, then put about 5-10 more on. I have a buddy coming from Nebraska on the 18th and staying for a week. We are going to do nothing but board. So am I going to hurt things by not doing a change until maybe 40-50 hours?

Can I just add oil? To get me by? Just don't want to put in shop while he is here. Uggg....

Fred, that is a real possibility. I had a buddy descibe it as the same kind a tinging you get with a snowmobile exhaust. I'm not blaming the flappers. I just wanted to know if anyone else heard what I was hearing.

The only reason I went to the exhaust elbows was because it was recommended to me to cut out the baffles all together. Since I don't know how to glass, the elbows were the next best thing to redoing the muffler.


Scott, You got it buddy!


Nic, I left the flappers on for that very reason. I sure don't want any water back flowing.

Where do you guys get your engine and tranny oil filters from? I don't have a dealer near me. Is there a online place you guys go to?

Man I spend alot of time here. lol

I got to believe we can get filters from somewhere online Joe. I will spend some time tomorrow looking online. I know I will have to do some things on that too. Any thoughts on my 20 hours deal?

If you get a pump, the oil changes should only take about 30 min to do yourself. I really wouldn't risk it. This is probably the most important time to change your oil.

Not an epic owner here, but Scott you definitely dont want to mess around with the break in period, especially the first oil change. It is probably the most important one, as a new engine has to wear in, meaning that it will get lots of little bits of metal in it from the pistons/rings fitting themselves perfectly in their new home (this is what Ive heard, maybe Im not 100 right on this). Dont want those bits of metal grinding around in your oil for another 20 hrs. Ive heard of plenty of people waiting wayyy longer than they should on the first change, or not doing the RPM things normally recommended by the manual during break in, but from these same people I hear them adding oil to their engines and probably are shortening the life of them. Take it for what its worth, but we followed the break in procedure perfectly on our 05 VLX and in 5 years have not had to add one DROP of oil to our Monsoon 340. Never burned or leaked an ounce, just FYI.

Also don't know what Mercrusier are like over there but internationally they will not honour a self service i.e. a registered dealer needs to complete the service and sign off the documentation or bye bye power-train warrantee so check out your documentation!

Thanks guys! I will just do it prior to him coming. I will do it at maybe 17-19 or just run it till I hit 20 in the next week and a half. Thanks !!!

Ian - At 60 hrs, I changed it Sat and it was spent, black, I was also 2qts low. It was filled to 10qts according my VP specs. It costs me 100bux to change my oil with 100% syn myself and 20-30 min.

With the Moeller Vacuum pump, I pump it a couple of times, start the extract and find something else to do. It gets full and shuts itself off, empty it and start over, only have to do it twice and it takes no time at all.

Scott - change your oil according to break in.

Adam, the big blocks burn oil. We all have the 8.1ltr 496 GM BIG block. I am on my third engine, no it wasn't Epic's fault or issue, and every single one burns/consumes oil. I have no oil leaks.

Ian Scarlet - I change my own oil and have not had an issue with Volvo honoring their warranty. At a certain point you run out of warranty anyways.

Helpful links
Pump:

http://www.moellermarine.com/afterma...id_extractors/

OE Oil filters:

www.skidim.com

OE Tranny filters:

ZF Hurth trannys - http://www.marinepartssource.com/pro...sion%20Filters

The links should be a good start to online ordering. But find any mercruiser/mercury dealer for your oil filter. I don't know what tranny you guys have in your Mercruiser boats.

Info...

www.Mercurypartsexpress.com is where you can order all the filters and parts.

Fred that is great stuff there man !!

Thanks to everyone for all the help.


Oh and I called MERCURY ENGINES myself and asked about the issue with the warranty. They said doing this stuff yourself does NOT void anything. I would keep receipts of things just for safe keeping but they didn't say that. They said "they recommend a dealer doing it, but it does nothing to the warranty if you change your own fluids"

Good to know !!

Sorry no pics yet Joe of my exhaust. Got one side done last night, Riding tonight with some freinds on his boat and finishing tomorrow. Then starting her up in Driveway to see if rattle is gone. If it is, then going to do water test tomorrow night. See how it is on water with FAE on. Never had it on the water yet with the FAE on. Will post pictures Thursday or Friday.

As wow this isn't hard, but it is hard to get everything out and back in. Tubes and metal don't flex well, so if you don't cut things perfect it makes life difficult.

That's cool, I already know what it's gonna look like. Just make sure you get everything pushed in, and tightened up. Sounds like your on the right track.

Has anyone actually bought the tranny and engine oil filters yet? Going off the links above, I'm assuming I need a 822626k04 for the engine and a 3312199031 for the tranny. I can't believe they want $50 for a filter. That's crazy!!!

Joe, wow...... thanks for all the help. Just got done I will send you a PM.

Fred, Do you have the Hurth 630A tranny? If so, is the filter you use, part # 3312199031?

I found an engine oil filter locally, but nobody has the tranny filter. I don't want to order the wrong one.

How often does everyone change there tranny oil? I went to change mine last fall, but it took me literally 2 hours to extract the engine oil with the extractor I had, so I didn't have the energy for the tranny. As for the tranny filter, I'm not sure mine even has one, unless I haven't looked hard enough. I got the Hurth ZF 63 IV.

Fred, Did you run the boat for a while and then change the oil? If not, that's why it took so long. I plan to run mine up to temp, then start pumping the oil. Once I get all of it out, I'll change the filter. Hopefully by then the filter will drain out.

Not positive, but I think the 63 IV is the same thing, just a different version.

Use moeller pump I listed in a link and it will take no time to change your COLD oil. Pump it a couple of times and let it go.

Joe I will find the better website for crossing your tranny to filter. Also remember when you have sticker shock that at least it's not diesel maintenance.....haha

Fred, I hear ya, that's the pump I use. My last boat had a hose that came off the oil pan drain. It was useless. It took 2 days for all the oil to drip out. After that first change, I got a pump like yours. It was a piece of cake. Somewhere along the way, that one got broke, but my 2nd one is going strong.

Thanks for looking up the tranny filter. You better check yours though. It might have one. I looked on the zf hurth site. It has all the manuals for all the different trannys. Still no part numbers for the filters though.

Diesel maintenance is crazy, everything costs a fortune! Still, $50 for an oil filter is out of line. There's nothing special about filtering oil. They're just raping you cause they can. If I ever do find the right part number, I'm gonna check NAPA. They can get just about anything.