Pulling a prop.
 

I know every one has a trick, but this works for me and I have never used a prop puller in my 20 years of ski-boat owner ship.

1.) Remove the pin and back the nut down to the end of the shaft don't remove the nut. Use a 2x4 planted between the prop and the trailer or ground if the nut is too tight to turn.

2.) Spray a little light oil (WD-40) behind the prop and on the shaft above the prop.

3.) Go for a 10 minute walk, drink a beer, make a sandwich.

4.) Half of the time the prop has already popped itself loose. If not, add a little more oil and GENTLY tap the back of the prop right at the shaft with a dead-blow hammer and it should come right off.

Merry Christmas. Hopefully, this will make your next time removing a prop easier or save you $100.00 on a puller. I keep a mini bottle of WD40 with my spare prop.

I usually remove the nut the same way as you do...... But then I just very lightly tap one of the blades with a dead blow..... And I mean very lightly. I time the light taps in a fasion that makes the prop start ringing. The harmonic vibrations release it from the shaft instantly.

I got a prop puller. Tighten it down with a loose nut still on it and it usually pops if you give it a little time. No need to beat it with a mallet. I will definitely try some penetrating oil next time.

Beating a 500 prop into submission doesn't sit well with lots of folks. I bought a puller.

Who said anything about beating it?

tried the method. I was close to beating it and got nothing, prop was on there for a few months. can't imagine doing this method on a prop thats been on the shaft for a while. glad it works for you. I keep a spare prop and it seemed silly not to invest in right tool for the job. my .$02

I've beat a front seal into a timing cover with 5lb hammer. Did it work? yes, but a press would've been better not risked damaging things

I can't say there is anything wrong with using the right tool for the job. That is certainly the best way to do it.

The way I do it doesn't remove the prop from the action of hitting it. It is the harmonic vibration that frees it. I could do it with a spoon....... It is all about timing the taps so that it rings louder and steady. All of a sudden it will just pop.

I have done it with props that have been on a month, and props that have been on for years.

I can say that it didn't work one time. I was trying to pull the prop on a 35 anniversary pro star, which has a stainless prop..... It didn't work on that.

Mine was on there for 10 years and it after cutting my hand (3 stitches) trying the non puller methods I bought the acme summer saver kit. It was expensive but I actually like the case for my extra prop.
Removing my prop took using the puller, Aerokroil, heat gun and small hammer. The heat gun is what finally did the trick. I would say mine was a worst case and heat would be last resort.

Yeah, I own a boat that's over $30k. It seemed kinda dumb to not spend $90 shipped from Wakemakers to get the nice prop puller...

Most of you have boats that are 2 to 3 times what mine is...


Next on my list is an impeller puller.

What are you guys, 200 lb gorillas with hand tools? Using the right tool the wrong way, is still wrong. A little tap'll do ya, no need going full walter on anything.

Add the penetrant like Justin said, then use your own accepted procedure for persuading the bastard.

I personally like a puller, a little bit of harmonic vibrations, and some lube...

I thought I read on on here somewhere...
if on a boat outing that requires a prop change to...
to put the boat on the trailer and take up on land loosen the shaft nut SOME,
and back the boat into the water and DO NOT DISCONNECT the tow strap or trailer buddy or safety chain.
while the boat is on the trailer hit reverse "kinda" hard and that should break the prop off from the taper of the shaft.
pull the trailer up on dry land and change out the prop

I have never had to do this, but anyone know if this works ?

although over the years i have moved towards having the right tool for the job and i dont' want to be a douche but seriously you don't need an impeller puller...just carefully use a needle nose pliers going around the fins

ACME harmonic. One hammer tap on the harmonic plug and it's loose. I used it once on the water too. Mind you, it had not been on forever.

If you don't need a puller then the prop is not seated correctly on the taper. When it is you don't even need a nut to hold it. It's not directional so reversing should never loosen a prop that is correctly on its taper. See lapping.

..... I'm going to assume you are joking. Right??

Properly seated or not, that prop will immediately release from the shaft during normal use if the nut is not securing it to the shaft.

Try and get a stainless prop off without a puller. Good luck...

I've never used a harmonic. I'd be interested to see one in action.

Wakeworld is a weird and interesting place. Give some expert advice and the biggest response is butt-hurt. Prop-pullers definitely work. I just provided a gift--an easier way that has always worked for me.

I bought three large nuts same size as prop nut....screwed them on a bolt and lined them all up together. Tack welded them and then removed the bolt. Ground down the welds. Cheap harmonic puller. I screw it on in place of the prop nut, tap it with a hammer and my prop pops right off.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned putting grease around the shaft and key before putting the prop back on. Makes it easier to take off next time if there is a next time.

Just remember, if you're hammering on the shaft or prop, the vdrive is taking that load. You could brinell the bearings.

What I have done in the past is put the prop puller on nice and tight and walk away for a little bit, the prop will eventually pop off on its own. I also use marine grease to lube it up before putting the prop back on. I feel like it has made getting the prop off a little easier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXcmT_ftlSM

here is vid in action. i have used both. i am a big believer in the harmonic and don't believe it would at all hurt the boat or bearings or whatever. but i have a regular puller cause once in a while i want to change the prop while the boat is on the lift and the end of the shaft is under water, so can't hit it with the hammer.

Here's some light reading for you.http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...p-installation

I know full well what "lapping" is, and why it is a good idea......

Still failing to see how that will make the prop stay on the shaft without a nut. Lapping is not done to lock the prop to the shaft. It is done to give more effective surface contact area, in order to increase the coefficient of static friction...... And to reduce any chance of wobble.

Ironically, proper lapping of a tapered fit will actual pop free easier with harmonics.

The answer is in the thread I referenced.