05 Sanger v215 build thread, updates, upgrades, pictures, questions and more!
Well, as it seems this boat may live in infamy on wakeworld, so why not start a build thread with updates, upgrades and changes.
A place to post progress, and ask questions about this damn thing! As of now there are a few mods underway and taking place, as well as a few more ideas stewing. So ill Jump right to it and try and post some pics. |
Currently underway is the swap of the Polk 600.1 and the 2 Boston G5's that are in a custom box beneath the front locker, with port facing into the walkway of the boat.
They are being replaced with DC audio level 4's, and a Brutus 2400.1 Cool white LEDs have been ordered to re string the interior LEDs, and 5% tint should come on the windshield when I get the time in a week or 2. Near future plans are to re finish the swim deck, it is kind of faded. And after I begin the torture of asking tons of questions, I'm hoping to split the plumbing for the rear ballasts and T in a 750# under each rear locker. Trailer brake re vamp will be on board with that project. |
perfectpass should really be the very first thing, after all of the maintenance stuff (oil, tranny, impeller)
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Impeller and oil should be done this weekend, given I get the time.
Perfect pass I am less worried about tbh. May just ride it out the rest of the season without it and install over the winter or next summer. |
so now that I know that ive been set up with the wrong f****king amp, and have to re route this path, if one were to choose between an SD2 and an Arc 600.2, price not being a factor, which would be chosen?
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I've never heard an sd2 but have been very happy with my ks600.2's. Being in norcal, arc audio can be had a lot cheaper than other parts of the country. I'd think it'd be way cheaper for a ks600.2 than an sd2. Like two for the price of one cheaper.
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If you found a decent deal at virtually the same price, would you favor the 600.2 still?
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never heard an SD2. Wetsounds makes nice stuff and I don't doubt it's a nice amp. If cost was the same, knowing the retail on the sd2, it'd probably hold better resale value.
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I am almost positive Arc makes all WS amps....if that makes you feel any better.
Arc is great stuff just not as "marinized" as the WS stuff. What one has more power? |
Arc is rated 600x2
SD2 rated 620x2. |
Dabbled a bit more today in disassembly.
There's wiring for about 16 speakers, but we have now cut it down to 8 interior speakers. Removing the extra 6x9's that were housed in their own boxes. And I gained some of my cup holders back! At one point it time it appears there were about 5 amps in the boat. And the wiring to show it. It was definitely installed professionally and it is decently clean, but there is a LOT OF IT. 2 amps still remained beneath the helm, however those will be re located the front observer locker with an amp rack to keep them from the elements. Now they are exposed to a bit too much moisture for my liking. 2 capacitors were also discovered beneath the helm behind the amps. The boat contains 8 batteries, 3 on each side rear locker, built into a clean battery box, with a 10amp shore charger pre-linked to keep them charged. Any one think these capacitors are just existing wiring to deal with and are not needed? If performance is not being gained from them, I'd like to rip them out as well, as they are the only thing keeping a run of 0awg and a slough of distro blocks in place. 1 more battery lies on each side beneath the rear seat next to the v-drive unit. The box containing 4 6x9's on the tower has been taken down in anticipation for the wet sounds. Subs have been removed from their box and the DC Audio's filled their place. Tomorrows project will be to continue to remove existing speaker wiring and begin to pre-wire for the new 6x9's that will fill the existing holes. Fun stuff! |
We need pics!!!!
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Ask and you shall receive.
Another day of tear down, relocating, and cleaning things up. Driver seat/console had to be removed to access a sea of wires and distro blocks, to relocate the amps and wiring beneath the observer locker. Glove box console area also had to be removed to move the custom box to gain access to work. Here's a few pics beneath the helm. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0c531646.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0bbed1c.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...psc69b55a7.jpg So after we weed through all of that, we get this.. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...psa23a8577.jpg Eight 8awg positives, eight 8awg negatives. These will be removed obviously as we are not going to run anywhere near that amount of amps, on that many tiny wires. However, there is a 0awg run, to 2 distro blocks that will each provide 2 pos 4awg runs, and 2 neg 4awg runs, so we might as well keep those, and run the 4 gauge over to beneath The observer locker from there. :) I should have showed you guys what speaker wiring for 16 6x9's looks like. 'twas a bit of a zoo. |
Now that 8 of the 6x9's are being weeded out, I have to decide whether I want to make a harness and re wire all remaining speakers in the boat, for less wiring at the amp, or I keep the wiring for the 8 remaining speakers and save myself some time and headache and simply re-route them over.
Keeping the wiring may be easier in the short term, but in the long run I may want a cleaner look with less wiring at the amp. What do you guys think? |
Another slight update on the progress.
I decided to use the existing wiring and just re route the wires for the speakers that are still being used. Everything is switched over, and got some amp racks mounted up. RCA's are a bit too short, ill have to get a few new pairs. And some feet of 4gauge power/ground wire, and we should have some mounted, powered amps tomorrow! 0gauge was ran for the sub amp, and hopefully the subs will be in tomorrow. Get everything buttoned up and start the LEDs and tint next week. Here's some pics of the racks http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...psd6e3f260.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1dec9bec.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps187c30ce.jpg |
There is also a third piece to mount my sub amp behind the back rest.
My sub amp is just about the size of one of the long boards shown, so hopefully an SD2 and an SD4 will fit on the 2 beneath the locker. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps898345ee.jpg ^^where sub amp will mount. |
The only thing that is really wrong cosmetically with this boat, is the faded swim deck, but that's an easy fix.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to do for a re finish? Maybe go with something black? As the windshield will be 5% tinted Rhino line/line x Plasti dip? Or stay conventional with the teak look? If so, what are some good products to get that new teak look back? http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c31078e.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps67aa9d72.jpg |
Keep that teak! Sand it with some 80 grit, than go back over it with a finer grit to smooth it up. Get some good quality teak oil, and a sock, and pour that oil a little bit at a time over a piece of the teak and rub it in so it all is covered, wait 5-10 minutes, and use a dry sock and wipe the excess teak off. Let it dry a day or 2 and do it again without sanding til you get the color you want.
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They sell teak cleaners. I'd use a teak cleaner and then get some oil, I paint it on til it won't suck anymore in, then wipe it off, let it cure for a day or two and repeat.
Yours doesn't look that bad, you could just put the oil to it |
Go get teakwonder's 2 part cleaner/brightener and a stiff bristled brush. Follow those steps then get a teak oil and either a rag/foam brush and oil it. Super easy and if you keep up on it, it doesn't take nearly as long as when it has been neglected.
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Linseed oil will hold up much longer. Way better than teak oil.
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Sikkens Cetol. i will never oil teak again. i put this on and mixed in a small amount of silica sand (for garage floors) and gave it just a small amount of grip with out skinning the kids knees. has held up for two seasons now. it would be good for a few more but i will need to touch up where boards have banged it up.
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I've used Cetol. Looks great but personally I would never recommend it. Unless you put grit in it, it cures like glass, is slick as all H3LL. Use regular teak oil. Cetol also is like a polyurethane, it seals the wood. I don't believe this is good for teak that sits in water. I also am pretty sure on the can it says to not use on waterline teak. Basically what I'm saying is... don't use Cetol, if I didn't give you enough reasons, just trust me. |
Anywhere I can grab the teak oil locally? Ill pick some up today.
Ordered a few sets of the Polk MM691's to fill the 6x9 sports. Was going to grab adapter plates and run xs650's, but to carpet them blah, blah, too much work. We will see how these sound, got a decent deal at about $120/pair compared to $85/pair on the db691's so I just went for it. |
Scratch that idea. Website was wrong in stating they are 4ohm. They are actually 2.7ohm. Which will not work. Db's it is it looks like.
Called and changed the order so we will see what happens. |
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https://www.google.com/search?q=teak...w=1365&bih=715 |
It does say that it should not be used below the water line but it was recommended by an old time that all he does is teak wood work in boats. I mixed some sand in and then sprinkled a little some on top while still wet. I use to oil and after a few weeks it looked bad again. Never again.
It does say it is breathable and flexable not like poly |
Ill try the oil first, as I like that darker richer look better.
But, the swim deck on my centurion was costed in cetol before I bought it, and I've had it 2 years now and the swim deck looks new stil. I do hear you guys on it being a bit slippery lol. The cetol just doesn't seem to give it a rich look, or is that just the wood? |
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Here are a couple of pics after 2 plus seasons. My boat is kept in the water.
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But if you want to Cetol it, I will sell you my can for $5 plus shipping |
Out side of your opinion that it is slippery do you have any real world reasons on why not to use cetol? Like have you seen a swim deck that has been destroyed by using it. Pulling the boat out to oil a swim deck is not a no brainier to me.
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I was exaggerating the once a month part. I doubt your boat sits in the water for months and months and doesn't get cleaned though. I do mine once a year. It looks fine. |
Ill finally be taking a day off tomorrow to work on this sob. So ill go pick up some teak oil and finish the wiring for the amps and get the wires bundled and where they need to be.
Run the wires for the tower, put everything back together. Wednesday will be the moment of truth when everything shows up and gets plugged in! Called and talked to Simon over at wet sounds. Discussed the problem of the MM's running a 2.7ohm load. He said the amp won't have a problem running 2 channels at 5.4ohm, and the other 2 chan running at 2ohm, so that's good news! After that, ,made a call back to the place I was ordering the polks from and asked them to switch the order back lol. Each of the 4 mm691 will be receiving ~95w each from the amp wired in series. The other 2chan will power 4 xs650's at 2ohm. A single sd2 will be running 4 rev10's and a ws420sq will tie them all together. Stoked! |
Some packages came trickling in from UPS today :)
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps493c23b2.jpg The rest should arrive tomorrow |
broken photo link, at least on my end...
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I guess photobucket says my pictures have been viewed too many times and now those bastards want me to pay.
Nothing too special. Just showing the ws420sq, the box of revs and the box of 650s |
Just ran across this and forgot I haven't updated in a while.
Stereo is completely done, along with 5% on the windshield. Waiting on gear 726 to come in stock, then they will be on the trailer. Also did a full RGB led install, I'll get some pics of shortly. Picture of the rev10 next to a boston G5 12" sub http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6e55e931.jpg http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...FA4AE67E6D.jpg Picked these up for the trailer too, I'll add some new pics of those when the wheels come in http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...C5E9D6417A.jpg |
Boat looks good, Stereo looks great! I really dislike the window tint..I don't understand why anyone would put a dark window tint on a boat? It's hard enough to keep track of fallen riders on a busy day with a clear windshield let alone one that is blacked out.
I have a close friend that was ran over on the Delta and it was by a driver not paying attention. Accidents happen quickly so don't put yourself at a disadvantage by having a blacked out window to see through. |
Aquick update with a pic of the revs for this thread.
On the way are some black moto metal 962 rims in 18's for the trailer, ill update it in a few weeks when they come in. They had to be custom drilled for the lug pattern. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...4B801F5FE8.jpg |
keep doing stuff to it so its even nicer when i buy it :D:D:D:D;)
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This reflects my habits on oiling teak: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/teak-care.asp
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Wheels are here, tires arrive tomorrow. More pics to come hopefully this weekend mounted, if it's not pouring rain
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...52CEB3D6C7.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Wheels are on, here's a quick snap. Boat is still covered hopefully I we will get some sun and I'll get some good pictures
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...06A0B77376.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Sexy!...how much did the rim/tire combo set ya back if you don't mind me asking...?
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The wheels I got shafted on, $205/ea because they had to be drilled to the lug pattern from a blank.
I went into this expecting $620 for the wheels, or $155/ea plus $10 per wheel to drill them. Well that wasn't the way it worked. They charged me $195 for the blank wheel and $10 to drill them. Kind of stupid Imo because they were $155 for this exact wheel in a 5x5.5 and 6x5.5. Tires were $101.90/ea plus shipping. Onlinetires.com is the cheapest place btw for the nexen n3000. Then my local tire shop fisted me with a $20/wheel mount and balance. So we came out a bit over budget lol I came into this hoping for $1000-$1100. I'm in them about $1365 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
hahaha...I'm impatiently waiting for my tires to finish wearing out on my trailer...I like that look alot! Most likely going to be a next winter project, gotta get through a wedding this year haha.
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those look dope dude!! I had those on my truck for a while but i i have fuel nutz now. I may try and get the mavericks for the boat trailer.
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What was the bolt pattern?
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5x4.5
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I got a buddy selling the same set that will fit on your ford.
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I have a GM, but what size are they and lug pattern? How much does he want for them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
20X9 and 8X6.5 lug I think he wants 900.00
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Damn. I just have a lame half ton.
But if they were 22's and 6 lug, I'd buy em! Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Quick snap with the boat uncovered. Prepping ol girl for a voyage on Saturday
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...F371468F66.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Looks so good. I'm gonna call my boy at tcs suspension today and get a quote on some!
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If anyone needs stock trailer wheels and tires hit me up :) mine are almost new and I'll sell em cheap!
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How cheap?
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Make me an offer Chris.
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Tires are new
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Ill text you some pics tonight when I get home
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Looks bad ass. The wheels make it look so so much better. Guess I better order some lol
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A little thread update.
Getting my relaxation in while there are 40 damn contractors working in my house. Remember that gray teak at the beginning of the thread? :) http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...62E7ACDD06.jpg |
Updated the trailer with all new LEDs and attached my rear ratchet straps.
Swim deck also looks 1000x better http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/...AB5B8DF78B.jpg |
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