Chevy 4x4 with E”Assist
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I’m looking at buying a new Chevy Silverado 1500 4 x 4 . Right now Chevy is offering almost $2000 off if you purchase a truck with “Eassist”. I know absolutely nothing about this option other than. It’s a small electric motor that adds a minute amount of torque and horsepower. I’m comfortable and very familiar with hybrid’s but Chevys version has me cautious. The extra horsepower and torque is nice but at what price, for long-term ownership. This truck is going to be a vehicle that stays at the lake and pretty much goes up and down the ramp to put the boat in the water it’s not going to get a lot of miles and I was worried about having a 10+ -year-old truck with low miles and a bad battery ?
P.S What are your thoughts on the Z 71 (Painted Grill) version VS the LTZ (chrome grill) version. |
This may be a better question for the Chevrolet forums. Buy a Cummins :) . jkjk
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no clue about the e-assist, but def go with the painted grill/z71 package!
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Sorry to say it but I wouldnt buy anything gas powered from GM. They have engine issues with the newer trucks and the Active Fuel Management Its a huge issue . The bigger problem is the fact GM is notorious for turning their backs on customers .
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Batteries don't last 10 years....
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I agree: if I was gonna be using the truck as a daily driver I could see it as a advantage but this could be the last truck I get? And my thought is that if I get something, I don’t wanna have a truck with 30k mikes on it thats like 10 years old but has a stupid bunk battery.
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https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...-with-eassist/
looks like its been an option since 2016. most don't like it, especially for short, stop and go situations, like yours |
Painted grill for sure! If it’s not a daily just get a tried and proven reliable v8 and call it done.
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^^^^^tjatscwhat I’m thinking
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As I've got to know you over the years from your posts on here, I definitely don't see you jumping at the chrome grille version, Grant!
Now is a great time to buy an "old" model year truck, as the 2019's are beginning to hit the lots and the 2018's from Dodge and GM are the older generation. Ford has been having a bit of a price war as well. I wouldn't be too concerned with the E-assist being good or bad, and the extra 2k off completely offsets the cost of the 1,125 E assist motor. Either motor will be more than enough to pull your boats out of the water at Tulloch, no problem at all. |
Yes: I’m gonna get a LTZ- With the Z71 package. The top of the line LTZ is only like 6k more then the LT truck I was looking at, but now pickings are getting slimmer, with the 19s coming in and the 18s being discounted it’s getting harder and harder to exactly what I want.
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My AFM engine and the 3 of my friends with AFM engines have nothing but issues . One lunched the engine at 90k miles which to me is crazy these things should run up 200k easy . Very rough idling due to the crap lifters the AFM uses and the fact they all consume a ton of oil . You can negate the oil consumption if you deactivate the AFM with good tuning or the little dongle that plugs into the OBD port and deactivates it . My issue is GM sucks and doesn't take very good care of the customers . I've always been a gm guy they always look much better then the competition but since the LB7 days with the duramax injectors and the rest of the short comings they refuse to stand behind im turned off . |
if it was me i wouldn't shy away from the e assist, seems like worst case is you tune it out, or just doesn't work. My cousin had a problem with their afm and the other didnt same year tahoes bought within weeks of each other in 07 in first year it came out.. i have heard they're oil thirsty. a little thread derailment, but if have to pick my poison its still going to be gm. I always buy gmc trucks and gmc or cadillac suv, although i doubt theres a difference vs chevy version they have been nothing but rock solid for me. 150k on 97 suburban, 140+k on an 03 esv, 130+ on my 08 duramax- currently at 60k on our 15 yukon and 170k on my 00 3/4 ton 6.0 sierra ranch truck that gets hammered in dirt and idles a ton and just keeps truckin... I have no place in my garage for a v6 truck and dodge isn't even on my radar until they get to 3/4 ton. i'd still take a dmax over cummins in that category... although the gap is closer than miles apart.
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I bought a new GM Sierra 1500 in 2011. It was in the shop 1-2 times a year for failed sensors. Highly frustrating. About once every 6 months the truck would go into limp mode and I would take it to the dealer. The same throttle position sensor was replaced many times and GM told me that it wasn't power train, so I paid. I finally bought a tuner to delete the code and keep driving since the sensor actually wasn't bad. I won't buy another GM.
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I bought a Chevy 1500 4X4 LTZ-Z71 So far Im super happy with it, Man I thought my 2008 Chevy LT fine. This new truck is SO much nicer.
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So here are some pic’s of my New truck. After 1000 miles I decided Wanted some new wheels. The dealer wanted a rediclous amount of $ for nice factory wheels so I just went with the stock 18’s. I found a guy that gets brand new Factory GM take offs. These factory GM 22 inch wheels had Pressure sencors and brand new tires on them. He took my stock wheels in on trade with cash. I pulled up 15 mins later I had 4 new tires & wheels all programmed and down the road. :)
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Nice!!!
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Now I need a leveling kit. Anyone have any advise?
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Jarod: Thanks for your reply. How much of a shock /Strut spacer did your 1/2 Ton require? I think they recommend a 2 to a 2-1/2 spacer for my truck. Just wondering if you had a larger spacer and if that could have been the diff.
Hey stupid question. Why are all stock Chevys high in the back? Why don’t they sit level from the factory? |
You might consider this. It also answers your question about the rear end height.
https://www.atptrucks.com/articles/r...ing-stock-keys |
^^ That artical talks about adjusting the torsion bars, not sure my truck even has thoes? The Leveling keys or adjusting them UP sounds like it makes it not ride so nice.
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my rec would be same as jarods... leveling kit in my duramax made it just about unbearable those would be the tortion bars mentioned in the article. Trust me if you have a dmax you do not want to go that route if ride is of remote concern. I do not believe the 1500 has them. I Did a 2.5" leveling kit in our 15 yukon slt which would be similar to your truck. I second the changing of the geometry. It makes the truck too neutral when any sort of load is put in the back/hooked up to a boat and I noticed right away the handling and ride was off. The best way to describe it when hooked to our boat was that the front end felt light, and way too high with how low it sagged in rear. (i do not have the autoride/self leveling suspension-another mistake) I ended up only keeping in the bottom shim of a 2.5" kit which is maybe a 1/4- 1/2" and it was a good compromise. The top spacer is much thicker. The thickness of the the shims isn't equal to the height i believe because of the angles etc. It softened the rake enough to my eye but returned the handling and ride and no longer feels sketchy towing the boat.
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You do get points for the snazzy new wheels though. How bout leave the truck alone now if it's just a lake house truck? It's cool enough. We all know you're a big nerd anyway. Quit posing. Kidding aside, once you level or lift something, you gotta adjust those headlights. Otherwise you could get a PO'd po po stopping you to ask why your headlights "are burning out his retinas" like I once did. Good thing my son was driving that time... |
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I have Rancho quick lift for 2" of lift up front and 2" blocks in the back on my 2014 GMC 1500. I think it rides fine. You don't have torsion bars so no point compairing it to a duramax leveling kit. On my last truck I had 2.5" leveling and a 1.5 body lift. Which is the same route I'm going to go with the new truck. But the new truck sit some much higher than my old 2008 denali. I really wouldn't want to go more than that. 1.5 body lift really helps and nobody even knows you have a body lift on. It comes with brackets for bumper relocation. It only took a few hours to put on by myself.
The new truck came with the 17" rims and they got to go!!!! |
Hey Grant - I have 2015 Sierra 2500 gasser that I am just getting ready to sell. I had the leveling kit done and modesto and thing drives awesome. No issues at all with the living kit and bigger wheels.
Shoot me your rim guy for the knockoffs. My wife bought a new Yukon over the weekend and wants stock wheels but not at that money, Congrats on the new rig! |
2500 has different suspension than a 1500. It uses torsion bars, there are now torsion keys on 1500's. You have to use a spacer or a new strut.
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Jason: Alvarez Motor sports (Danny) +1 (650) 229-5222 all the wheels he deals with are Factory wheels, I don’t know if you meant to say “Take offs “ or “Knockoffs “
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Nice truck Grant. I can't believe what a difference the new wheels make. The truck looks 1000x better with your new wheels. Nice choice
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Here were some of my wheel options 20 inc Factory GM wheel
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20 inc Factory Dodge wheel.
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22 inch Factory GM wheel. These are from a GMC Denali
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22 Factory GM wheel.
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Iiroc Look for the win. Denali would've been my second choice. Insides of the wheel painted black would look good on the Denali's.
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While we are on the Subject of wheels what’s everyone’s opinion on “Factory Replicas” my buddy’s that “wheel up” every car they drive say the Replicas are just fine? I see some awesome deals on Factory Replicas. 22 or 24 in Texans look pretty cool. Example this guys is asking $1000 for 4 tires and wheels
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I put a 2.5 inch leveling kit on my ecodiesel and didn’t notice any negative handling or ride issues. It was a disc style spacer that went on the top of the strut.
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Why not just buy some after market wheels. There are 1000's of choices. If you buy factory knock off's your just going to look like every other Chevy out there.
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Good point: this is just my opinion. But the stock wheels don’t seem to
Be as trendy and have a longer shelf life then the factory wheels. Example Rock Star wheels, they were the rage 5+ years ago. I also think resale on a truck with Factory 20s is more then with aftermarket |
I see where your coming from. I guess when I pick after market rims. I try and pick rims that won't fade out as quick as rims like Rock star's. I called it back when they came out. They where the Affliction of after market rims. My douche bag brother in-law was a prime example of that.
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Chevy has some pretty cool wheels IMO. The Texans ( the machined face with black insert wheels ) I posted above are factory design wheel that the after market company’s knocked off and made larger. I think the largest Texan wheel you could get only came on the SS truck and only in a 22. They now make them in 24 and even 26. The wheels I originally wanted were the GM factory “Snowflake”. They are a great looking wheel for a stock wheel.
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Funny thing is if you would have posted that pic two-three years ago, we would have blown you up, saying that truck was a ghetto donk. Now? Seems normal if not edgy. I like it. Guess it helps release my inner ghetto. LOL I'm wondering how that style could ever transfer to a full-size 8 lug 4X4 (real truck) wheel.
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Now I like it like that. It's just enough to not look like any old grandpa truck but still looks really clean.
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I don’t know if I made it clear but the wheels above on the Red GMC are GM Factory “Replicas” (snowflakes to be exact) I’m pretty sure they are 24s I “THINK” the largest GM factory wheel right now is a 22.
It’s funny. 22 are the New 20’s :) seems like every truck has to have 22’s just to look some what normal . Then in my opinion once you start getting larger then 22 you start to heading into dark water. I admit some of the taller wheels with the smaller profile wheels look good but then I think ride and functionality start to suffer. On my search for new wheels you know how many 24 and 26 inch wheels with super thin tires you can find in the for sale section’s ? And for super cheep! LOTS! Wheels that if they were 22 inch with a 50 series tire they would be sold. You find Lott’s! I guess that tells you somthing. People buy wheels based on looks and then after a few thousand miles of driving around on them they say “NO THANKS.” In my opinion is a delicate balance you want your ride to look cool but you don’t wanna be bouncing down the road and constantly reminded of your bad wheel choice. That was one of my reasons for going with factory wheels. I figured if GM had put in the R&D to make and equip cars and trucks with these wheels and offer a 100k mile warranty they couldn’t be half bad. Also having a tire and wheel combo with a sidewall with a bit of Meat imo is a great idea for a tow vehical. If it’s your daily driver that never tows or god off road so be it. |
Here is a picture from back in September when I first started “test driving” this is the Z71 with the blackd out grill in the top of this thread. It had the 22 inch GMC wheels on it. You know how much the dealer wanted for these wheels. $6800 for the wheels LOL LOL LOL these are the same wheels and tires the guy who sold me my wheels was selling (Factory GM take offs) $1500
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Here is a picture from back in September when I first started “test driving” this is the Z71 with the blackd out grill in the top of this thread. It had the 22 inch GMC wheels on it. You know how much the dealer wanted for these wheels. $6800 for the wheels LOL LOL LOL these are the same wheels and tires the guy who sold me my wheels was selling (Factory GM take offs) $1500
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People are stupid to got to the dealership to buy any after market accessory's.
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^^^ Agreed. But $6800 for factory wheels and Tires. Damm that’s just crazy. I know dealers make tones of money on “trim packages” but to ask that much over what any normal person could drive down the street and get more the 1/2 is just stupid
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This is what you want next G:
https://electrek.co/2018/11/26/rivia...-pickup-specs/ |
Ralph; wow That is one cool truck. With for independenty controlled electric motors I bet it’s very off-road capable, becides the vertical headlights I like everything about it
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I like that it has a 13,000 pound tow rating. Instant torque all the time would pull amazing well. I know it wouldn't go very far but I don't tow long distances.
But the head lights suck!!! |
That truck is gonna be at least a 100g and towing you will probably get half of it’s dista for a charge. Take out some of that space and double the battery capacity and put a generator to power to thing in the back. I’m sorry but this isn’t a truck, this is a city truck. You’ll be able to buy a loaded to the max diesel for way cheaper.
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^^^ You’re exactly right about range diminishing based on load. But let’s just fantasize for a minute let’s say normal range of this is 300 miles and let’s say you get only 1/2 of that range when you’re towing. Most people don’t go more than 130 miles one way to go to the lake. Examples from the bay area two most places in the Delta it’s around 80 miles. So let’s say you burn up all of your range getting there in a perfect world you would have a charge station at the marina so while your truck is sitting there doing nothing it can re charge for the drive home. Brilliant!
One thing people sort of forgot about with an electric car is the cost of fuel each month. I was putting $600 worth of gas in my Escalade every month when I owned it. And that’s something you can’t write off or re gain. So in theory you could pay $600 more per month for this car then a gasser and still be ahead |
I think it's around 61K with tax rebates for the base model. If only it looked better.
TFtrucks on youtube has a video about it. The numbers are crazy good 750 hp and like 10,000 torque!!!!!! yes that much. |
The range is 450 miles unloaded
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Ok: Back to the Topic of a leveling kit? So the people I have spoke to say you need a 3-1/2 inch kit to truly make the truck sit level. They said yes some have reported it does or can effect ride. It’s around $400 installed and that includes front end alignment.
What do people think about dropping the rear to match the front? It has no effect on ride. Doesn’t require alligment, and is $175 installed. This truck is NEVER gonna have a load in the bed. It’s not a construction or a work truck it’s strictley for towing the boats |
I kinda like the rear a bit higher
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Drop the rear!!! It will look so much better than a leveling kit. If you raised the front, a month from now you will be putting a more aggressive tire on it.
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If you only drop the rear to level how will it sit when your towing a boat? My Ram is currently stock and when the boat is attached to it is almost exactly level. If I dropped the rear I imagine it would sag pretty bad.
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Ill do a test and measure how much it drops in the rear when the boat is attached
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If you are still looking to level it go with the Bilstein leveling shocks. I put them on my old Ram and they were nice.
https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...ht-adjustable/ |
That's a interesting Option, So you would simply replace your stock shocks with these, "Says they can raise the front of the truck 2.75 inches" And thats it??? No aliment or spacers, Just install longer shocks and that's it? Any changes to how it rides or handles Vs Stock
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You don't need 3-1/2" to match the rear. They are just wrong 2" to 2.5" will match the rear. I have 2.5 and 1" over stock rear block and I just barely have a rake in the back.
Bilstein is a great option it is similar to the Rancho option I have on my truck above. |
Don’t raise the front, you’ll regret it with those wheels and tires. It will look so much better with dropping the rear 2”.
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You can remove the rear block yourself for free and see how you like it like that. I think you’ll like it better than you think.
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The removal of a factory block sounds to good to be true I’ll check it out tomarrow and report back here
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Is this aluminum block your taking about? This block looks to be 2 inches thick. Is this the block your talking about
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I agree with dropping the rear. Lifting the front with that tire package won’t look good at all.
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Yep that’s it.
Jack up the rear using the frame so the tires are off the ground and all the suspension is hanging. Put the truck on jack stands. Then use your jack to support the axle on one side and unbolt the block. Lower your jack just enough to slide the block out and tighten it back down. Repeat on the other side. The only thing you might have to do is trim your U bolts because they should be 1-1/4 longer now. I’m pretty sure stock rear block are an 1-1/4” high. If your is taller you might already have a aftermarket one in there. But don’t quote me on that. I’m not positive about 2017-2018. Older trucks is was |
I know this is gonna be hard to believe but I took a Measurment of the ride height of truck on flat & level ground with the boat not attached. The highest point on the rear fender well was 39-1/8th. I didn’t move the truck I simply lowered the boat down onto the ball & the height did not change one bit. I took another measurement from the exact same spot, I would have thought that my boat would have made the truck sag at least 3/4 of a inch but, zero movement???? Truck did not sag one bit. I would have thought I had a few hundred pounds out toung weight? Perhaps the boat and the way it’s sitting in the garage is creating little to no toung weight
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I removed the Spacer under the Rear leaf (took about 20 mins) and the truck came down just over 1 inch in the rear. Sorry In advance I should have take down the B4 and After Photos on a flat and level ground. It’s very hard to see any dif.
Before (top) After (bottom) |
Over all 1 inch didn’t get it level but it did make a diff Just getting in and out of the truck. With the rear end up I notice I’m killing the drivers seat at the corner as I get out each time. It being just a inch lower makes it so your foot hits the ground first and you can get out with out sliding off the seat and support yourself and not crush the seat each time. So for that factor alone I’m happy.
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Looks good. Cheap and simple too
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